LWDG Summertime Series:Heatstroke in Dogs: How to Treat and Prevent It

Summertime is a great time to get outside and enjoy the weather, but it’s also important to be aware of the dangers that hot weather can pose to our furry friends. Dogs are particularly susceptible to heatstroke, which can be fatal if not treated quickly. In this blog post, we will discuss the symptoms of heatstroke in dogs, how to treat it, and how to prevent it from happening in the first place.

What is heatstroke?

Dogs suffer from heatstroke when their bodies are unable to regulate their internal temperature. This can happen when they are exposed to high temperatures, or when they are overexerting themselves and producing too much heat.

Dogs are especially vulnerable to heatstroke. They do not sweat as humans do. Instead, they pant to release heat from their bodies. They also release heat through their paws. However both these methods of cooling are not very effective, and dogs can quickly overheat. If a dog’s body temperature rises to 104 degrees Fahrenheit, it will suffer from heatstroke.

Dogs with short snouts such as pugs and bulldogs are more susceptible to heatstroke because they can’t Pant as effectively. Flat-faced breeds also tend to have narrower windpipes which make it harder for them to take in air. Overweight dogs and senior dogs are also at a higher risk because they don’t adjust to heat as well as younger, healthier dogs.

Symptoms of heatstroke in dogs

Symptoms of heatstroke in dogs include:

excessive panting
increased body temperature
glazed eyes
increased heart rate
drooling
weakness
muscle tremors
seizures
collapse

Heatstroke is a serious condition that can be fatal if not treated promptly. By being aware of the symptoms and taking quick action, you can help keep your dog safe during the hot summer months.

How to treat heatstroke in dogs

If not treated promptly, heatstroke can lead to organ damage and even death. If you suspect that your dog is suffering from heatstroke, it is important to take immediate action.

If you see any of the symptoms in your dog, it is important to act quickly. Move them to a cool area, such as shade or indoors, and apply cool water to their body. Do not use ice water, as this can cause further stress to their body.

If possible, take their temperature rectally with a digital thermometer. You should continue cooling your dog until their body temperature reaches 103°F (39.4°C).

Once their temperature has been reduced, take them to the vet as soon as possible for further treatment.

How can you prevent your dog from getting heatstroke in the first place?

One of the best ways to prevent your dog from getting heat stroke is to keep them well hydrated. Ensure they have a constant supply of fresh water. You can also offer cool snacks such as cucumber or carrots, which will help to keep them hydrated.

Dogs also sweat through their paws, so it’s important to make sure they are not walking on hot surfaces at all times, especially when it’s summertime.

Stick to shorter walks or play sessions, in the very early morning or late at night, and make sure they have plenty of time to rest in the shade throughout the day.

Put out a paddling pool for them to cool down in, and keep a spray bottle of water handy to give them a cooling spritz when needed.

Encourage the family to leave the dog to rest quietly. Dogs will happily get involved in what we are doing and will play to the point of collapse.

Lastly, never leave your dog alone in a parked car, as the temperature inside can rise quickly and become dangerous. Avoid long car journeys if possible.

By following these simple tips, you can help keep your furry friend safe and cool in the summer months.

Prevent your dog from getting sunburn

Dogs can get sunburn. In fact, they are just as susceptible to the harmful effects of UV radiation as humans. Dog owners should take care to keep their pets out of direct sunlight during the peak hours of the day, and they should also consider applying sunscreen to exposed areas of the body.

Be sure to use a sunscreen that is specifically designed for dogs, as some human sunscreens can be toxic to animals.

If your dog does happen to get sunburned, look for signs of discomfort such as excessive licking or biting at the affected area. You can also apply a cool compress to help soothe the skin. If the sunburn is severe, or if your dog shows signs of distress, it’s important to seek veterinary care immediately.

LWDG Summertime Series: Keeping your dog safe during the summertime months

The summertime months are a great time to get outside and enjoy the warm weather with your dog. However, it’s important to take some precautions to keep your furry friend safe. Heatstroke (article here) , is a real danger for dogs, so be sure to provide plenty of water and shade when you’re out and about. You should also be careful of sunburn, especially on short-haired breeds. We also have an older post here Stopping Your Restless Working Dog From Overheating

If you’re hiking or walking in long grass, be on the lookout for grass seeds (article on this here), which can cause irritation and even infection. And finally, be aware that adder bites are more common in the summer months (article on this here), If you suspect your dog has been bitten, seek medical attention immediately. By taking some simple steps, you can help ensure that your dog enjoys a safe and fun summer.

LWDG Summer Series: The Danger of Adder Bites and How to Prevent Them

Snakes are a common danger to dogs, as they often like to sun themselves in warm, open areas where dogs are likely to be. Adders are the only venomous snake in the UK, and their bites can be fatal to dogs. The good news is that adder bites are rare, but it is still essential to be aware of their dangers. This blog post will discuss the dangers of adder bites and how you can protect your dog from them.

Adders in the UK

Adders are the only venomous snake species native to the United Kingdom, and they are relatively small, averaging around 50cm in length. They are generally a brown or grey colour, with dark zigzag markings running down their backs. Adders typically live in woodlands or heaths and prefer areas with lots of cover, such as long grass or thick undergrowth.

Females give birth to live young (up to 20 at a time), and the young snakes are independent from birth. Adders are carnivorous, feeding mainly on small mammals such as rodents, but they will also eat reptiles, amphibians, birds, and invertebrates.

Unlike some other snake species, adders are not aggressive and will only bite if they feel threatened. Adders are venomous, but their bite is usually not fatal to humans. However, it can still be painful, so it’s important to be careful if you come across one.

What Does An Adder Look Like

The adder is a relatively small snake, less than a metre in length. It is typically brown or grey in colour, with a black zigzag pattern running down its back. It has a distinctive V on the top of its head.

Signs Of An Adder Bite

If you think an adder has bitten your dog, it is important to seek medical attention as soon as possible. Look for the following possible signs and symptoms:

swelling at the site of the bite, which can be slight or severe
panicked/ nervous
panting/drooling
make painful noises (such as yelping or whining)
abnormal bleeding
bruising
lameness and/or paralysis
difficulty breathing/collapse

While adder bites are not usually fatal to dogs, they can cause great pain and suffering. With prompt medical treatment, however, most dogs make a full recovery.

What should I do if an Adder bites my dog?

Adders are venomous, but their bite is usually not fatal to humans. However, dogs can be killed by their bite. If an adder bites your dog, it is essential to seek veterinary attention immediately. Snakebites should always be treated as an emergency

The sooner you can get your dog to the vet, the better their chances of survival. Whilst you may believe you can just administer an antihistamine, you cannot administer anti-venom, and your dog may need it. Only your vet will have access to this, so don’t waste time.

Adders are quick to strike, and their venom is very potent, so it is vital to act fast if you suspect your dog has been bitten. In the meantime, there are a few things you can do to help your dog.

Carry your dog to reduce the spread of the adder’s venom around your dog’s body. Stillness saves lives. If you can, try to take your dog to the car. If their weight is too much to carry, ask someone for help.
If you have an instant ice pack, apply it to the swollen area. This will help to control the swelling and slow down the venom spreading. If possible, gently wash the wound in cold water. Do not apply any bandages or try to tourniquet the area.
Keep your dog comfortable and quiet as you transport him to the vet. They may be in shock. As you transport your dog, if possible, call your vet and inform them you are coming in with a possible snake bite.
Finally, don’t attempt any first aid as this can do more harm than good. Instead, following these simple steps can help ensure that your dog gets the treatment he needs as quickly as possible.

Carrying An Antihisamine

One of the most common treatments for adder bites is the administration of chlorphenamine tablets, which can be purchased at most pharmacies. In addition, Chlorphenamine can be found in Piriton Allergy Tablets.

It is important to note that these tablets should only be given to your dog if specifically instructed to do so by a vet, as they can cause side effects such as drowsiness and vomiting. However, if used correctly, they can help reduce swelling and pain at the bite site.

When allergic reactions occur, the body releases histamines. Chlorphenamine works by blocking the action of histamines, which reduces the symptoms of an allergic reaction. When calling your vet, ask whether they would like you to administer these tablets to your dog. Following your vet’s recommendations can help ensure your dog receives the best care possible.

You can also carry these as shown here:

Size Matters

It is common knowledge that different-sized animals react differently to various stimuli; this also rings true when considering the difference in reaction between small and large dogs to an adder bite. A small dog’s blood vessels are narrower than those of a larger dog, meaning that the venom has less space to disperse and cause damage, and therefore the effects of an adder bite are usually far more significant on a small dog than on a large dog.

Another factor to consider is that a small dog’s circulation system is much more rapid than a large dog’s, so the venom circulates much faster and causes greater tissue damage. In short, an adder bite is usually far more dangerous to a small dog than a large dog. Therefore, we need to watch out for all our dogs and be extra vigilant when it comes to smaller breeds.

Preventing Your Dog From An Adder Bite

You can do a few things to prevent your dog from being bitten by an adder. First, keep your dog on a leash when hiking or walking in areas where snakes are known to live, especially in the summer months and when the grass is long or the ground is warm for them to bask. This will help ensure your dog does not come into contact with a snake.

Second, if you are training or leave off-leash in areas, choose areas that are busy with very little grass coverage. Adders are shy creatures and tend to avoid areas of high noise. Walk the field/area first with your dog on a leash, maybe doing some heelwork and whistling. Making noise can scare away any you cannot see.

For further increased protection, you can add a small collar bell to your dog’s collar, making noise as they move about, which will also encourage the adder to move away. Do not encourage your dog to enter brash for retrieves. Make sure you have trained a strong ‘leave-it’ command. If you see a snake, make sure to keep your dog away from it.

Lastly, Check out the National Biodiversity Network Map. The distribution of Adder population throughout the UK varies greatly, which can indicate populations in your area.

LWDG Summertime Series: Keeping your dog safe during the summertime months

4 Solutions To Your Sit Before Lead Removal Problems

WRITTEN BY LWDG FEATURED EXPERT LEANNE SMITH

Leanne Smith runs Dogs R Dogs, based in Devon. She specialises in Gundog Training using modern, science-based methods.

Solutions To Your Sit Before Lead Removal Problems

This post by Leanne Smith on what to do when your dog will not sit before the removal of the lead. Leanne takes us through how she tried 4 different solutions to find out what to do with her dog, Ragnar…

One of the reasons that I enjoy dog training is all the curve balls that my dogs throw in my path. It keeps me on my toes and always looking at the basic principles and trying to find an application that suits each dog in each situation.

My sit training problem…

My youngster, Ragnar, can’t sit before he has his lead taken off at the beginning of a walk or somewhere that he thinks that he will be able to run.

Ragnar’s issue is he becomes too focused on anticipating freedom and loses the ability to function cognitively, thus he is unable to offer to sit or even respond to a sit cue.

Solution 1

For the past 2 years, I have not bothered about this as Ragnar is steady and will wait in a stand until his lead is removed and he is given permission to go.

Outcome

Ragnar has been practising self-control and waiting for permission to self-reward with running. However, it has not addressed the fact that he is not cognitive during anticipation of running. In the short term this has been acceptable because I have had many other things to work on and he was safe, and reliably waited to be released. It didn’t address the issue directly by it was a good workaround until I had time to address the issue directly.

Solution 2

When I decided to address this, the first thing that I tried was just waiting for him out. However, it was regularly 5-10 mins before he could offer to sit.

Outcome

All of us become bored and frustrated with standing around, plus sometimes I didn’t have that long to wait. After trying this consistently for a couple of weeks with no consistent improvement I realised that I needed to try something different.

Solution 3

The next thing that I tried was rewarding him with food when he gave me eye contact and then luring him into a sit with a second treat.

Outcome

Unless the treat was very high value, Ragnar could take it or leave it. Even with high-value food he sometimes couldn’t focus and sit. Again, no real consistent progress.

Solution 4

What I finally found that helps him is to wait for him to choose to look at me which he can do quite early on, praise him, stroke him and engage with him and this seems to help him come back to being cognitive and then he can sit quite quickly. I am then releasing him straight away.

Outcome

The time taken to sit is now consistently reducing. This just highlights how important it is to find out what your dog finds reinforcing in each situation. All of my other dogs would have moved away from me if I tried to stroke them in this situation, they wanted food or release.

Dogs basically do what works for them

So when we are faced with a situation where we would like to modify our dog’s response, we need to find what works for them.

In scientific terms, a reinforcer is something which increases the likelihood of a behaviour happening. So, for Ragnar, in this situation a food reward was not a reinforcer as the behaviour that I wanted – Sit was not increasing. Therefore, I needed to find something that was reinforced in that circumstance – physical interaction with me.

Erik, my older dog, in the exact same circumstance offers to sit immediately and is rewarded with food, for him food is a reinforcer.

Every dog is an individual and as handlers, we need to be aware of this and be creative when our standard rewards are not a reinforcer in any given situation.

The Use Of A Broom!

I have a creative client who had a very reluctant retriever, the only thing that he used to get excited about was chasing the long handle sweeping broom at home. My client made this into a game and brought her sweeping broom to lessons. The dog very quickly learned to love retrieving because it earned him a chance to play with the sweeping broom. Once there was value in retrieving, my client was able to change to more usual rewards. Had my client not been willing to make the effort to use the sweeping broom, then I’m sure that dog would still be indifferent to retrieving.

If you are struggling to motivate your dog in a certain circumstance, don’t be afraid to think out of the box. Look at what your dog loves to do and will put a lot of effort into; then, look at ways to be able to use that ‘thing’ to reinforce the behaviour that you want to happen. Learn to observe what brings joy to your dog, and use it in your training

LWDG Summertime Series: Dealing With Dreaded Grass Seeds Through Summer

Grass Seeds are the tiny enemy we all dread throughout the summer months.

Most grass seeds seem to find their way between our dog’s toes, into their ears, sometimes in their eyes, and into their nose or mouth too. In fact, any part of their body is at risk of puncturing.

Dogs love to run through long grass, so it’s important to check them for grass seeds every time. Once a grass seed finds its way into your dog’s body, they are far harder to find. A grass seed won’t normally show up on x-rays and can travel far throughout the dog causing inflammation, infection and abscesses.

Grass Seed can travel as far as your dog’s lungs and depending on the distance travelled, they may require a CT scan to locate. Due to how quickly it travels, a suspected grass seed problem should be seen by your vet.

Grass Seeds: What To Look Out For:

Warning signs to watch out for on feet include paw licking, especially after a walk. You may also see a red raised ‘boil’ that the dog has been licking for a day or two.
Warning signs to watch out for with ears includes the sudden onset of head shaking. Due to their ear shape, spaniel breeds and crosses are the most commonly affected breeds, however, grass seeds can get into any dog’s ears.
Other symptoms to look out for include swelling in an area, sometimes accompanied by puss. You could also possibly see a puncture wound or something as simple as your dog is off its food.

How Fast Does A Grass Seed Go Into Your Dog And Travel?

Once a grass seed is under the skin, it’s possible for it to start migrating around the body, at which point they often cause problems and prove difficult to find. Watch this video by Banbury Vet Clinic to see how quickly a seed can find its way into your dog’s body.

Seeds To Look Out For

Many seeds can cause problems, but one seed to definitely look out for is the Foxtail. Similar looking to wheat, Meadow foxtail occurs throughout the UK. It is most abundant in low-lying areas, river valleys, wetlands or in old meadows on moist soils.

When dogs encounter the seed-heads, their barbs cause them to become irreversibly lodged and will penetrate just about anywhere.

How To Minimise Grass Seed Concerns

Regular brushing is incredibly important, especially with long-coated or curly-coated dogs.
Keep dog’s paws and ear hair trimmed regularly so that the seeds don’t have as much to attach to.
Make sure to feel between your dog’s paw pads for caught seeds. If you don’t feel confident trimming your dog, ask a groomer to do this for you.
A flea comb works quite well for getting the seeds out close to the skin, and any thorns in the winter after working.
Make sure to groom their entire body, and check-in any of their skin folds, their belly and limb joints.

LWDG Summertime Series: Keeping your dog safe during the summertime months

Want to add to this article? Let us know in the comments below about how grass seeds have affected your dog and any advice you have for readers.

How To Limit Food Waste & Improve Sustainable Pheasant Consumption

While some people may see the pheasant as nothing more than a game animal, it is important to remember that every creature has a role to play in the food chain. This means that when we play a role in the killing of a pheasant, we have a responsibility to ensure that all parts of the bird are used and consumed. Pheasant consumption is key to the future of our sport.

There are many ways to make use of a pheasant. The meat can be eaten by humans or dogs, the feathers can be used for fly fishing, and even the bones can be used to make stock. Nothing should go to waste! Not only is it important to respect the animal by using all of its parts, but it is also important from a practical standpoint. Wasting food is simply not an option, especially when there are so many people and animals that go hungry every day.

In this podcast, we talk to Amy Lowe about how Hoddy’s Premium Dog Food use pheasant carcass in their dog food to ensure more of each bird is used.

The history of pheasant consumption

Pheasants have been consumed since ancient times. The first recorded consumption of pheasants dates back to the Han Dynasty in China. Pheasants were considered a delicacy and were often reserved for the elite class. In medieval Europe, the pheasant was a popular game bird among the nobility. It was often served roasted with onions and garlic.

Today, the pheasant is still considered a delicacy in many parts of the world and is increasing in popularity. The pheasant is a popular choice for game birds because of its light, delicate flavour. When cooked properly, pheasant can be a delicious and healthy addition to any meal. The breast is mostly consumed, leaving the legs and carcass.

Pheasant Consumption – Sustainable Food in Today’s World

The pheasant is a popular game bird that is prized for its meat. However, the bird can also be used to produce a number of other products, including feathers, bones, and even eggs. By using all parts of the pheasant, we can help to ensure the sustainability of this important species.

The feathers of the pheasant can be used for a variety of purposes, including fly-fishing lures and dressmaking. The bones can be used to make knife handles or jewellery, while the eggs can be used for culinary purposes or as bait for fishing. By utilising all parts of the pheasant, we can help to reduce waste and ensure that this species remains abundant for generations to come.

chocolate poodle carrying dead hen bird > Pheasant consumption is critical to ensure shooting continues.

How Hoddy’s Dog Food uses pheasant carcasses in their dog food

Pheasant carcasses are a valuable source of protein and essential nutrients for working dogs. They are also a good source of energy and help to maintain a healthy digestive system. Dog food that contains pheasant carcasses is nutritious and supports the health of working dogs. It is also an environmentally friendly way to dispose of pheasant carcasses.

Hoddy’s was founded in 2019 by Mark Hodson, a lifelong and passionate countryman. Not content with persuading us to eat more game through his magazine, Mark decided it was time our canine friends also ate a little more game. And so Hoddy’s was born. The idea was simple – create a 100% natural dog food using wild game, which might otherwise go to waste.

Hoddy’s plays an important role in supporting the consumption of pheasant carcasses and helping to reduce waste. By buying dog food that contains pheasant carcasses, you are supporting both the dog food industry, and the shooting industry, whilst helping to provide quality nutrition for working dogs.

How You Can Play Your Part In Pheasant Consumption Sustainability

Pheasant hunting is a popular pastime in many parts of the world, and those who are lucky enough to take down a bird often want to know what to do with the meat. Many people only use breast meat, but there are actually many different cuts that can be taken from a pheasant. For those looking to make the most of their kill, here are some tips on how to use all parts of the pheasant.

The breasts are the most popular cut of meat from a pheasant, and they can be cooked in a variety of ways. They can be roasted, grilled, or even made into pate. The legs and thighs are also good for roasting or grilling, and the dark meat can be used to make hearty stews or soups. The skin can also be used to make crispy cracklings or fried chicken. Finally, the bones can be used to make stock for soups or sauces.

So next time you go pheasant hunting, remember that there is more to the bird than just the breast meat. By taking advantage of all parts of the pheasant, you can create delicious dishes that will feed your whole family.

Hoddy’s Website can be found here

A dog sitting by a bag of Hoddys dog food. Hoddys use left over carcasses to ensure pheasant consumption is sustainable.

Dog Training Tips: How to Train Your Dog to Retrieve from Water

Teaching your dog how to retrieve from water can be a fun and valuable skill. It is great for hunting, but training your dog this skill can also help keep them safe if they ever fall into a body of water. This blog post by LWDG Group Expert Claire Denyer will discuss the basics of training your dog to retrieve from water. Claire will cover everything from choosing the right location to start training to ensure that your dog stays safe while in the water. Let’s get started!

As the weather is warming up, here is some beneficial advice and tips in the case on the warmer days you decide to have a go at water retrieves.

Before Practising Water Retrieves

Firstly, spend time getting your dog used to water without any retrieving involved; this will help build up their confidence in swimming.

Make sure you can control your dog on and around the water. If your dog is over-excited about the water, we would recommend doing obedience and basic gundog work near the water. Ensure you can recall your dog from water with and without a retrieve.

It’s a good idea to start your water training journey on warm days, so your dog has a positive experience and doesn’t get cold.

On cooler days, ensure your dog is nicely warmed up before water retrieving by doing a couple of land retrieves, do a land retrieve between water retrieves and dry your dog off thoroughly or use a drying coat once they have finished.

Retrieving On Land Before Water

If you want to compete at working tests or even work your dog on the field, don’t start water retrieving until your dog consistently delivers the dummy to hand on the land, as your dog is more likely to spit the dummy to shake on exiting the water.

When you introduce formal water retrieving, start by dropping the dummy just into the water’s edge and walking away (a memory retrieve). You don’t want a young or novice dog going in deep straight away; just a toe-dip to pick up the retrieve the dummy is ideal to start.

This will help prevent any concerns about entering the water and help to prevent delivery issues.

Gradually pop the dummy in a little further, but do this slowly.

For example, do a few retrieves, so the dog is only as deep as the knees, working up the legs. This will build his confidence and prevent any bad experiences or feelings of getting cold, which can put the dog off and cause spitting the dummy to shake!

Also, when water training on a cooler day, make sure your dog is well warmed up, and keep them warm by alternating water retrieve followed by a dry retrieve! This will cause a massive difference in how the dog feels as it will keep them warm and motivated and less likely to spit the dummy to shake as they exit the water.

Distances In Water Retrieving

There are different areas of distance to build on

1)Distance of the retrieve in water

2)Distance of the delivery from water

3)Distance crossing water

Work on these independently and once you have the desired distance on both, start putting them together, being sure to build together gradually to give your dog confidence.

Every dog responds differently to working in water. Still, something we know is that bad starts or first experiences can create unwanted problems which are difficult to remedy when your dog is in the water or at a distance.

Depending on the dog, there are a couple of ways to get a really lovely delivery from water. The most common reason a dog will drop the dummy to shake is that it is either inexperienced or has had a bad experience (like feeling cold) during the return from water to deliver the dummy. This can be avoided by careful introductions, alternating the water retrieve with a dry retrieve, and keeping the dog warm.

In a nutshell, these are the two most effective ways:

1) Find shallow water and go in with the dog

3) Take the dummy from the dog (close to the edge of the water), and let the dog shake (mark with a cue – shake). Give the dummy back to the dog, walk backwards, encouraging the dog to follow and take the dummy again; the dog will most probably shake again (most dogs shake 2 or 3 times). You can repeat this exercise, and it teaches the dog to shake after the delivery.

Increase the dog’s energy as it comes out of the water; you will need to give lots of extra encouragement and create high energy to keep the dog focused on returning the dummy and prevent the dog from thinking about shaking. This could be clapping or your recall whistle.

Keep this up until the dog reaches you, take the dummy from the dog, let the dog shake (and mark with a cue – shake), then give the dummy back to the dog, walk backwards, encouraging the dog to follow and take the dummy again, the dog will most probably shake again (most dogs shake 2 or 3 times) you can repeat this exercise, it teaches the dog to jerk after the delivery.

Final Thoughts

Once distance and delivery are consistently achieved, we can start to make the retrieve formal and working test worthy with quieter handling.

As your dog becomes more experienced, you can increase the distance of the retrieve in water and work on crossing water. Remember to keep up the encouragement and positivity, especially when your dog starts out! With practice and patience, your dog will be retrieving like a pro in no time. Good luck!

The Premack Principle: How to Use a More Desirable Behaviour to Reinforce a Less Desirable One When Dog Training

If you’re a dog owner, you’re probably familiar with positive reinforcement – rewarding your dog for desired behaviours to increase the likelihood of those behaviours being repeated. However, you may not be as familiar with the Premack Principle, which is another helpful tool in dog training. The Premack principle states that a more desirable behaviour can be used to reinforce less desirable behaviour. In other words, you can use something your dog enjoys (like playing fetch) to encourage them to do something they may not enjoy as much (like coming when called). This blog post will discuss how to use the Premack principle to train your dog!

Introducing the Premack Principle

In psychology, the Premack principle is the idea that people are more likely to perform a less desirable task if it is a means to an end of something they really want to do. In other words, we are more likely to do something we don’t really want to do if it leads us closer to something we really want. The principle is named after David Premack, who first proposed it in his 1958 article “Reinforcement Theory.”

The principle has often been used with children and animals to get them to do things they may not be thrilled about, such as eating their vegetables or going to bed on time. But it can also be applied to adults in many different settings. For example, you might use the Premack principle to motivate yourself to work out by telling yourself that you can watch your favourite TV show only after you’ve completed your workout.

The principle is based on the concept of reinforcement, which is any type of reward that increases the likelihood of the desired behaviour being repeated. For example, the Premack principle is a specific type of reinforcement called positive reinforcement. It involves introducing something pleasant (watching TV) after the desired behaviour (working out) has been carried out.

In contrast, negative reinforcement involves removing something unpleasant (like the alarm clock going off) after the desired behaviour has been carried out (like getting out of bed).

Using the Premack Principle to train your dog

The Premack principle is a simple but powerful way to train your dog. Basically, it states that you can use a high-value activity to reinforce a low-value activity. So, for example, if your dog loves to play fetch, you can use that desire to reinforce basic obedience commands like sit and stay. So every time your dog sits or waits on command, you follow up with a game of fetch.

Over time, your dog will learn that sitting and staying are rewarding behaviours because they lead to the thing they want most – a fun game of fetch. The Premack principle is a great way to train your dog because it takes advantage of their natural desires to help them learn new things.

This principle works incredibly well when training gundogs because they are already motivated to retrieve. By linking the behaviour you want (sitting) with the thing they love (retrieving), you can quickly and easily teach your dog to sit on command.

The Premack principle is also helpful for teaching dogs to come when called because it allows you to link the behaviour with something they enjoy, like a game of fetch or a walk in the park.

Tips for making the most of the Premack Principle

There are a few things to keep in mind when using the Premack principle to train your dog. First, make sure that the high-value activity is something that your dog truly enjoys and is willing to work for. For example, if your dog isn’t interested in retrieving, then using that activity as a reward isn’t going to be very effective.

Second, it’s essential to start with small steps and work your way up. If you try to link too many behaviours with the high-value activity, your dog will likely get overwhelmed and confused.

And finally, be consistent! For example, if you only use the Premack principle sometimes, your dog won’t understand that it’s a rule they need to follow all the time.

How to use the Premack Principle

The Premack Principle is a simple but effective way to train your gun dog. Also known as ‘grandma’s law’, the Premack Principle states that “the opportunity to perform a high-frequency behaviour (such as retrieving) is a reinforcer for a low-frequency behaviour (such as sitting).” In other words, if you offer your dog the opportunity to do something they love ( retrieve) after they have done something you want them to do (sitting), they are more likely to repeat the desired behaviour.

The Premack Principle can also be used to extinguish unwanted behaviours. For instance, if your dog jumps up on people when they come into the house, don’t give them any attention until they are calm and sitting down. By denying them the reinforcement of attention, you can discourage the behaviour over time.

The Premack Principle is a versatile tool that can be used in many different ways to train dogs effectively. Whether you’re trying to encourage the desired behaviour or discourage an unwanted one, harnessing the power of reinforcement can help you achieve your goals.

Premack’s Principle And Positive Reinforcement

Dogs are often called (wo)man’s best friend and for a good reason. They provide us with companionship, protection and, in some cases, even therapeutic benefits. In return, we owe them to provide a loving home and take care of their needs. One of the most important aspects of responsible dog ownership is training your dog to behave in an acceptable way to you and society.

While various methods can be used to train a dog, one of the most effective is rewarding good behaviour. Offering your dog treats or praise when they behave in the desired manner will help them understand what is expected of them. In addition, this positive reinforcement will make them more likely to repeat the desired behaviour in the future. As any dog owner knows, a well-behaved dog can be a joy to have around.

The Premack Principle is a simple but powerful tool that can be used in many different ways to train dogs effectively. By using positive reinforcement (offering something the dog enjoys after they have displayed the desired behaviour), you can encourage your dog to repeat the behaviour. The Premack Principle can also be used to extinguish unwanted behaviours by denying the reinforcement of attention.

Dogs are instinctively social creatures that crave companionship and attention. As a result, they are highly responsive to positive reinforcement, a training technique that rewards desired behaviours. When used correctly, positive reinforcement can be a potent tool for shaping dog behaviour.

One of the reasons it is so effective is that it takes advantage of the strong bond between dogs and their owners. Dogs naturally want to please their owners, and so when they are rewarded for good behaviour, they learn to associate that behaviour with happiness and satisfaction.

Conclusion

Positive reinforcement provides an immediate reward for desired behaviour, which helps to reinforce the desired behaviour in the dog’s mind. Positive reinforcement is an effective way to train dogs because it builds on the natural relationship between dogs and their owners and provides an immediate reward for good behaviour.

If you’re looking for a way to improve your dog’s obedience, try using the Premack Principle. With patience and consistency, you can harness the power of reinforcement to help your dog learn desired behaviours. Who knows, maybe you’ll even be able to teach them a few new tricks! Thanks for reading! 🙂

Resetting A Training Exercise: Helping Dogs Learn Through Patience and Repetition

Dogs are creatures of habit. Once they learn a command, they mostly find it easy to repeat the behaviour. But what about when they struggle to understand an exercise or are making incorrect choices? How do we go about resetting the training?

In this blog post, LWDG Group Expert and LWDG Founder Jo Perrott discuss how to reset your dog’s behaviour and start again if they don’t seem to be getting the hang of things. So, whether you’re a first-time dog owner or an experienced trainer, listen to this week’s podcast episode, or read on for some helpful advice!

Resetting Versus Correcting – What’s The Difference?

When resetting your dog’s behaviour, you are essentially starting from the beginning again. This means going back to the start and attempting the exercise again.

Correcting your dog’s behaviour is different. This is when you intervene at the moment to stop them from doing something wrong. So, for example, if your dog jumps up at someone, you would say ‘no’ or ‘off’ to prevent them from doing it.

Both resetting and correcting your dog’s behaviour are essential. But, if you’re having trouble with a particular command, resetting may be the best option to help your dog learn.

Why might you need to reset your dog’s behaviour?

There are a few reasons you may need to reset your dog’s behaviour.

If they are having trouble understanding a particular command, going back to the beginning and starting again may help them understand it better.
For example, if you’re teaching your dog ‘sit’, but they keep standing up, you may need to reset their behaviour.
Resetting can also be helpful if your dog is becoming distracted during training. For example, if they start sniffing around or playing with a toy rather than paying attention to you, starting the exercise again may help your dog focus.
Finally, if your dog is making too many mistakes, you may need to reset their behaviour to help them learn.
If they get a particular exercise wrong more than 50% of the time, they will likely become frustrated. In this case, resetting may be the best option to help them learn the correct behaviour.

How To Reset Your Dog’s Behaviour

It would help if you did a few things to reset your dog’s behaviour.

First, you need to ask yourself why the dog is failing at the exercise? Where is the breakdown occurring? Is it in your asking or the dog’s understanding?

Next, you need to ensure that you are in a quiet environment with no distractions. This will help your dog to focus on the task at hand.

Finally, you need to be patient and keep trying. It’s important not to get frustrated, as this will only make things worse.

If you keep calm and carry on resetting your dog’s behaviour, eventually, they will get the hang of it!

Two Time Rule

LWDG Group Expert Claire Denyer has a two-time rule. If she asks twice and both times it goes awry, she then looks further into what’s going wrong and where the ongoing communication breakdown between her and her dog may be.

This is a beneficial rule of thumb because often, when we’re asking our dogs to do something, and they don’t respond, it’s not that they don’t understand – they maybe didn’t understand us in the first place.

Our Body Language

Dogs are very good at reading our body language, but they’re not good at understanding our human words. So, if you’re asking your dog to do something and they don’t respond, ask yourself first – am I using the correct body language for my dog to understand?

Remember that dogs are brilliant visual learners. This means that they learn quickly when they can see what you want them to do. So, if you’re asking your dog to ‘sit’, make sure that you are using the correct hand signal for ‘sit’.

If you’re unsure about what the correct body language is for a particular command, have a look online or ask for help.

The Importance of Rewards

When resetting your dog’s behaviour, it’s important to remember to reward them when they do something right. Dogs learn best through positive reinforcement, so if you can give them a treat or some fuss when they do what you ask, they are more likely to repeat the behaviour.

Of course, rewards will only work if your dog understands what you’re asking of them. So, if you’re still having trouble getting your dog to do what you want, it may be time to seek help to see where the communication breakdown may be.

Staying Patient

When your dog is struggling to understand your command, the first thing to do is stay patient. Dogs are not humans, and they will not understand everything immediately. Like young children, they need time to process information, especially if it’s new, and figure out what you want them to do. If you get frustrated or angry, this will only make things worse. Just take a deep breath, and try again.

When Your Dog Knows The Command But It Goes Wrong Again

If your dog is still struggling, it’s time to reset their behaviour. This means going back to the beginning and starting again. For example, you might need to go back to earlier exercises or commands that they already know. Once they have mastered these again, you can start slowly introducing the command you had problems with.

Remember to take things at your dog’s pace, and be prepared to repeat the process several times. With patience and repetition, your dog will eventually understand.

So, next time your dog isn’t responding to a command, think about whether they understand what you want them to do. Then, stay patient and keep trying – with repetition, your dog will eventually understand.

If you’re finding that your dog is struggling to understand your commands, or you need some extra help and support, why not join our monthly membership? With our expert trainers on hand, you can be sure that your dog will be learning the right behaviours in no time.

Beginner’s Guide to GunDog Training Commands: A Free Download

Are you looking to train your new gun dog? First, you’ll need to learn a set of basic cues/commands that will help you get started. This free download will list all the essential training cues/commands that every gun dog should know.

Whether your dog is a puppy or an adult, these cues/commands will help make training more straightforward and more effective. So download today and get started on the road to a well-behaved gundog

Get Your Free Checklist Here

When you’re training your dog, it’s essential to use clear and concise cues. A cue is simply a command or signal that tells your dog what to do. For example, the cue “sit” should always mean the same thing-namely, that your dog should put her bottom on the ground.

Once you’ve established a cue with your dog, she should be able to respond to it consistently, regardless of the situation. There are various cues that you can use when training your dog, and it’s important to choose ones that will be most effective for your particular pet.

Some familiar dog training cues include “sit,” “stay,” “come,” and “down.” By using these cues consistently, you can help your dog learn basic obedience commands and continue to build upon her skills as she grows and develops.

Commands For Gundogs

Gundogs are trained to follow a broader set of commands than most other types of dogs, similar to police dogs or service dogs. These commands usually include “leave it,” “stop,” and “go back.” This allows the hunter to control the dog while hunting, which is important for safety reasons and incredibly useful for pet gundogs.

A dog who is obedient to cues is easier to train, more fun to play with, and less likely to get into trouble. And while obedience is not the only factor that makes a dog a great pet, it’s undoubtedly an important one.

Different Command Types

Dogs are incredibly intelligent creatures, and they have the ability to learn a wide variety of tasks. With the proper training, dogs can be taught to respond to visual, verbal and whistle cues. Visual cues are signals that the dog can see, such as hand gestures or body language. Verbal cues are commands that are spoken out loud, such as “sit” or “stay.” Finally, whistle cues are particular signals that are produced by blowing into a whistle. By using a combination of these three types of cues, gun dog owners can effectively communicate with their four-legged friends. With time and patience, almost any dog can be trained to respond to all three types of cues.

This free download lists all the essential training cues/commands that every gun dog should know. Whether your dog is a puppy or an adult, these cues/commands will help make training more straightforward and more effective. So download today and get started on the road to a well-behaved gundog!

Where To Start When Training A Hunt Point Retrieve Dog

If you’re interested in learning about Hunt Point Retrieve dog breeds, their backgrounds, how to train them, and their characteristics, this podcast is for you! In this episode, we discuss with Sharon Pinkerton of Bareve K9 Services where to start when getting an HPR dog.

Sharon will give you an insight into the HPRs and what you need to know. Sharon has owned GWP/HPRs since 1977, initially as a show person but now very much dual purpose. She has worked my dogs on shoots and ran them in working events, including Field Trials, with a good range of success. In addition, Sharon is a HPR FT B Panel judge and has trained and worked many dogs up to FT award level, including 1st’s/highest do in FT at all levels from Novice to Open.

What Is A Hunt Point Retrieve (HPR) Dog

A Hunt Pointing Retrieve (hpr) dog is a gun dog trained to independently find the game, point out the game to the hunter, and then retrieve the game once it has been shot. Pointing dogs are often used in fields, moors and meadows where the game is not especially plentiful, as they can help the hunter to locate game that might otherwise be overlooked.

Hunt Point retrieve (HPR) Breeds.

HPR breeds make great versatile hunting companions. They are often used for rough shooting, picking-up and deer stalking. These dogs are bred to have a strong prey drive and a keen sense of smell. As a result, they are very energetic and need plenty of mental and physical exercise.

HPR breeds include German Shorthaired Pointer, German Longhaired Pointer, German Wirehaired Pointer, Weimaraner, Hungarian Vizsla, Hungarian Wirehaired Vizsla, Brittany, Large Munsterlander, Italian Spinone, Bracco Italiano, Korthals Griffon and Slovakian Rough Haired Pointer.

The Intelligence of Hunt Point Retrieve Breeds – HPRs

Many dog breeds were created for specific purposes, including hunting, herding and guarding. While all dogs are intelligent, some breeds are particularly adept at particular tasks. For example, hunt-point-retrieve (HPR) dogs are bred to work closely with hunters, using their keen sense of smell to track down the game. These dogs must be able to control their impulse to chase after every animal they see or smell, waiting patiently until the hunter gives the signal to flush. As a result, HPR dogs are known for their high level of intelligence.

In addition to being excellent hunting companions, HPR dogs also make great family pets as long as the family is aware they are taking on a working dog breed that needs mental stimulation. They are typically gentle and good-natured, forming strong bonds with their owners. If you’re looking for an intelligent and loyal dog breed, an HPR breed may be the perfect choice for you with the proper training and understanding.

The Negatives of Owning a Hunt Point Retrieve (HPR) Breed

Owning a working breed of dog can be enormously rewarding, but it also comes with some challenges. These dogs are bred for intelligence, athleticism and stamina, and they require a lot of mental and physical exercise. If you don’t have the time or energy to give them the activity they need, they can become frustrated and destructive.

In addition, HPR breeds often require more training than other dogs, so be prepared to put in some extra work to help them reach their full potential. But if you’re up for the challenge, owning an HPR breed can be an enriching experience.

LWDG Featured Expert Sharon Pinkerton

Sharon Pinkerton can be contacted:

sharon@bareve.com

www.Bareve.com

Bareve_k9_services on Instagram

Bareve K9 Services on Twitter

Other Resources

Materclass:

Further HPR Information can also be found here https://hprga.co.uk/hpr-breeds/

The Menopause and Dog Training: How to Concentrate When You’re Going Through Changes

Do you find that it becomes harder to concentrate as you get older? Do you sometimes feel like your brain is foggy? If so, you’re not alone. Many women experience changes in their ability to focus during menopause. This can be a difficult time for both our personal and professional lives. But did you know that this can also affect our ability to train dogs?

In this podcast and blog post, Expert Mandi Everson chats to LWDG Founder Jo Perrott about how perimenopause and menopause can affect dog training and offers tips on concentrating when you’re going through changes.

What is menopause, and how does it affect dog training?

Menopause is a natural process that all women go through as they age. During menopause, the ovaries stop producing eggs, and the body slowly transitions out of the reproductive phase of life. This transition can cause many changes in a woman’s body, including hot flashes, weight gain, and mood swings. While these changes can be challenging to deal with, they don’t have to put a stop to your dog’s training regimen.

Many women find that their dog is an excellent source of support during menopause. Dogs can provide companionship and help reduce stress levels, which can be beneficial for women dealing with menopause. Additionally, dog training can be a great way to get some exercise and fresh air, both of which can help improve your overall health during this time. So, if you’re dealing with menopause, don’t hesitate to continue training your dog – it can be good for both of you!

How to concentrate when you’re going through changes caused by the menopause

Change can be tough to handle. Change can be overwhelming and distracting, whether you’re starting a new job, going through a break-up, or moving to a new city. When you’re going through changes, staying focused and concentrating on the task at hand can be challenging. However, you can do a few things to help keep your mind from wandering.

First, try to keep a routine. If you can stick to the same schedule, even if it’s just for a little while, it will help your mind feel more stable. Secondly, make time for yourself. Make sure you’re still doing things that make you happy, even if they seem like small things. Lastly, reach out to your support system. Talk to your friends and family about what’s going on and let them know how they can help you. Change is never easy, but you can help make it easier to deal with by taking these steps.

Tips for dealing with the distractions of menopause

Dealing with the distractions of menopause can be challenging, but there are a few tips that can help. First, it’s essential to stay hydrated. Drinking plenty of water helps to keep your mind clear and focused.

Second, try to get enough sleep. Getting a good night’s sleep can help fight off fatigue and improve concentration.

Third, exercise regularly. Exercise releases endorphins and helps to reduce stress levels, both of which can improve focus and concentration. Finally, relax and take some time for yourself. Relaxation techniques like yoga or meditation can help to calm your mind and allow you to focus on the task at hand. By following these tips, you can help to reduce the distractions of menopause and stay focused on what’s important.

Training your dog during menopause

One of the best ways to deal with the symptoms of menopause is to stay active, which includes keeping up with your furry friend. Walking or running with your dog gets you out in the fresh air and provides quality bonding time with your pup. But as you enter perimenopause and menopause, your body goes through changes that can make working with your dog a bit more challenging. So here are a few tips to help you both stay fit during this time.

First, pay attention to your own energy levels and adjust your workout accordingly. For example, if you’re feeling drained, cut down on the distance or intensity of your walk. You can also try breaking up your walk into two shorter sessions instead of one long one. Second, keep an eye on the weather and be prepared to head indoors if it’s too hot or humid outside.

Finally, be patient with yourself and your dog. Menopause can be a trying time for both of you, but with patience and planning, you can continue to enjoy quality time together while staying fit and healthy.

The importance of patience and persistence during this time

Training a dog takes time, patience and persistence. The same is true when going through menopause. Your body is changing, and you may feel like giving up. But don’t! Here are a few tips to help you through this challenging time. First, be patient with yourself. Menopause can last for years, and your symptoms may come and go. Second, be persistent in your quest for relief. Finally, try different treatments until you find what works for you.

Finally, have patience with your dog. Training takes time and patience. But it’s worth it! A well-trained dog is a joy to be around. So hang in there! You’ll get through menopause – and your dog will be better for it.

Resources

There are a lot of resources available to help women deal with menopause. Friends and family can be a great support system, and there are also numerous books, websites, and hotlines that offer advice and information.

Some women find it helpful to join a menopause support group to share their experiences with others going through the same thing. Others may prefer to see a therapist or counsellor who can help them manage any feelings of anxiety or depression.

In addition, many over-the-counter and prescription treatments are available for relief from menopause symptoms like hot flashes and night sweats. There is no need for any woman to suffer through menopause alone with so many options available.

Dr Louise Newson – Balance Website

NHS Website: Menopause

Menopause: All you need to know in one concise manual (Concise Manuals)

Littermate Syndrome: What It Is and How to Deal With It

If you have more than one dog in your household, then you may be familiar with the term “littermate syndrome.” Littermate Syndrome, also sometimes called Sibling Aggression or Littermate Aggression, can cause behavioural problems in dogs of a similar age who are raised together.

In this podcast, LWDG Founder Jo Perrott discusses with LWDG Experts Emma Stevens and Abbie Reid what littermate syndrome is and how to deal with it if it arises.

What is Littermate Syndrome?

Littermate Syndrome is a set of behavioural problems that can occur when two puppies from the same litter , or pups of a similar age, are raised together.

The most common symptoms of littermate syndrome include resource guarding, separation anxiety, and difficulty with socialisation. While these problems can be frustrating for owners, they can be prevented through planning, and they are often easily resolved with the help of a qualified trainer or behaviourist.

Littermate syndrome is not a cause for concern and should not make you avoid getting a second puppy. With proper management and training, most dogs develop and mature to lead happy healthy lives.

‘Training littermates is a lot of work but if you put the hours in the rewards are certainly worth it! Abbie Reid

Littermate syndrome can affect unrelated dogs of a similar age

How to spot symptoms of littermate syndrome

The symptoms can vary from mild to severe, but usually include separation anxiety, aggression, and a strong bond with one another that can make it difficult for them to socialise with other dogs.

If you suspect your dog may be suffering from littermate syndrome, there are a few things you can look for.

First, pay attention to how they act when they’re apart from each other. If they become agitated or anxious, it’s a possible sign that they’ve become too dependent on each other.

Second, watch for signs of aggression, such as growling or snapping, when they’re around other dogs.

Finally, take note of how they socialise with other dogs. If they seem withdrawn or shy, it’s possible that they’re not getting enough exposure to other animals.

Pups with littermates syndrome may not eat or drink if apart

Tips for preventing and dealing with littermate syndrome

There are several things you can do to prevent littermate syndrome from developing in your puppies.

First, make sure to spend equal amounts of time socialising with each puppy individually. This will help them learn to bond with you and trust you as their primary source of comfort and security.

Secondly, provide plenty of opportunities for your puppies to play with each other so that they can learn how to interact appropriately.

Finally, be patient and consistent with your training, and make sure to plan to work with each dog in the way they need you to. Remember to work with the dog in front of you at all times.

“Be prepared for two puppies to be twice the work of one,” Dr. Heather Graddy

We hope this podcast and article have helped you learn more about littermate syndrome and how to prevent it. If you have any questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to reach out to us for support.

Littermates can be a joy to raise together if done correctly.

Our team is here to help you with every step of your dog training journey. That’s why we offer our Society Squad live coaching calls – so that pet owners like you can ask our group of experts any questions they may have about this condition or any other behaviour problem their pet is experiencing. Thanks for reading!

Link to Dual Handling Masterclass

Do Gundogs Make Good Pets? The Pros & Cons of Owning a Gun Dog in 2022

Gun dogs, or gundogs, are a type of hunting dog that is used for flushing out and retrieving game. They are bred for their ability to work with hunters in the field, and they come in various shapes and sizes. So, the question remains: do gundogs make good pets?

Unfortunately, the answer is not so simple. There are pros and cons to owning a gundog as a pet. In this blog post, we will look at both sides of the argument and let you decide for yourself. If you’re thinking about getting a gundog, there are a few things you should consider:

1. What are gundogs, and what do they do?

Gundogs, also sometimes called bird dogs, are a type of hunting dog that is specially trained to find and retrieve game. There are many different types of gundogs, each with their own unique skills and abilities. Some common examples include retrievers, pointers, and setters. Gundogs typically work in pairs, or teams, with a hunter, using their keen sense of smell to track down prey.

Once the animal has been located, the gundog can be used to flush it out of hiding and may retrieve it for the hunter. In addition to their usefulness in hunting, gundogs also make loyal and affectionate companions. As a result, they can be a delightful addition to any home with the right training.

2. The pros of owning a gundog as a pet

Owning a gundog has many advantages. One of the most obvious is that they make excellent walking companions, as they have lots of energy and love to be outdoors. Gundogs are also very intelligent, which means they can be trained to perform various tasks. For example, many gundog owners use their dogs to help with retrieving games when out on a shoot. Gundogs are also known for being loyal and affectionate companions.

There are many different gundog breeds, each with their own unique skills and abilities. Gundogs are prized for their keen sense of smell, stamina, and ability to work closely with humans. While they were originally bred for hunting, gundogs can and do make excellent pets.

Many gundogs will have a strong work ethic and be eager to please their owner, which makes training them relatively easy. In addition, gundogs can be dual purpose dogs.

Even if you never intend to use them for hunting, they can naturally adapt to other jobs such as scent work, agility, assistance and any other role where they work alongside humans.

I guess it depends on what one classes as “a pet”, do they/we intend on fulfilling the dogs needs or just our own.
I am a pet gundog owner, working lines and he joined our family with every intention of being a family pet and my first agility, scent etc dog. But, WOW what a journey we have been on and I often wonder how many have been rehomed as they were placed with families who never intended or even thought of training/fulfilling the gundogs needs. – Emma Wardle , LWDG Community Member

Gundogs are usually very healthy dogs with few health problems. This is partly because they have been bred for generations to work in the field. However please check your breed and find out more as no breed is without issues.

3. The cons of owning a gundog as a pet

While gundogs make loyal and obedient pets, there are a few things to consider.

First, gundogs were bred for hunting, and as a result, they have a strong prey drive. This means they may chase small animals, including cats and other dogs. Therefore, gundogs need to be trained early to prevent them from chasing wildlife or becoming overly excitable.

Gundogs make good pets, however, certain breeds I.e., Cockers, need to stop being portrayed and sold as the perfect family dog. They can be, but need a lot of work to get them there. People don’t realise the energy or attitude. Case and point, the amount of Spaniels under a year and up to 14 months who need rehoming through Spaniel Aid alone. – Amy, LWDG Community Member

Secondly, gun dogs are often bred to be very intelligent, quick thinking, independent and single-minded. This can result in them being stubborn and difficult if not trained regularly.

The Charity Spaniel Aid UK, along with other charities are overwhelmed with dogs. More about this problem can be heard on our podcast Keeping Working Dogs Out Of Rescue.

Gundogs require mental and physical exercise, and if they don’t get enough, they may become destructive. Finally, gundogs are bred to work with humans, and as a result, they may not do well if left alone for long periods of time.

4. In conclusion, should you own a gundog as a pet or not?

In conclusion, gundogs make great pets for active people who enjoy spending time outdoors or for people who want to spend time doing activities with their pet companion. They are loyal and affectionate companions, and their training means they are typically well-behaved.

However, it is important to remember that gundogs are working dogs, not simple lap dogs. Therefore, they require a significant amount of mental and physical exercise to stay happy and healthy.

Poll : Do gundogs make good pets?

We asked the ladies of our Facebook Open Community the question ‘Do gundogs make good pets?’ We closed poll once 600 ladies voted. This is the result:

98% said yes … BUT ONLY … if you take into consideration their needs as a working breed.

If you are prepared to meet their needs, a gundog can make a wonderful addition to your family. If you are not prepared to commit to their care, it is probably best to choose another type of dog.

Please do your research and speak to experienced gundog owners before deciding, and remember that every dog is an individual with their own needs and personality.

We hope this article has helped you decide whether a gundog is a right pet for you. If you have decided to join us as a gundog owner, join our Hot Mess handler – Gundog Basics and learn all you need to train your new dog. You can find out more here.

How To Steward At A Working Test: Top Tips For Newcomers

Stewarding at a working test is an exciting experience. You get to see all sorts of dogs in action, and you learn a lot about how different breeds work. It can be challenging at times, but it’s definitely worth it!

In this blog post, Charlotte Bell, LWDG Society Member, talks to us through her first-ever time at a test where she ended up as a steward…

Introduction

After the advice so kindly given to me on the Dog and Duck live group coaching call the other week regarding learning more about working tests , I went to watch one. And I got the job of stewarding the puppy group for the morning – I got a clipboard and everything!

Here are a few things that I experienced and thought I would share for others who are new to all of this and maybe considering going to watch or compete.

Charlotte’s Top Tips

I’d never been to a working test and had only been beating on about three shoots in my life – so I am a total newcomer to all of this. Don’t be intimidated if you are the only one turning up in a white Corsa with black alloys – be proud that you made it down the estate tracks (and back) without losing your undercarriage or exhaust.
Start a 4×4 savings fund.
It might be scary turning up on your own, but quite a lot of others had – so I just took the plunge and went and said a few ‘hellos’ to the people on their own – and I had some lovely conversations.
Offering to help out was great because I had something to do rather than just feel totally like a spectator (but I think it would be OK to go and watch with someone who’s running a dog, too, quite a few people were doing this)
I didn’t pay much interest in anyone’s dog, as I wasn’t sure of etiquette and didn’t want to piss anyone off, but I did fuss a few dogs after they had done their tests – people seemed a bit more relaxed after that!
There were quite a lot of ladies, more than I thought there might be, this was really great to see, and I talked to all of them who I met in the puppy test – there were a lot of friendly men too!
The tests didn’t look as bad as I imagined they would be. In the puppy, a hunt up (think that’s what its called), sit to shot (clap of hands, or starter pistol), retrieve – that was it! And two puppies go at once, one on the left and one on the right – s they were sitting to the other one’s shot and waiting while the other retrieved. Then later they went again, but the other way round. So each dog went under each judge. Novice was the same, with a blind retrieve after the seen retrieve -and it covered a bit more ground in general but was still over quite quickly.
The judges were approachable and explained to competitors what was going on if this was their first working test – and it looked like they also gave a good de-brief at the end of the test.

Two of the competitors, Brenda and Charlotte

Knowing what to expect and what you will be tested on must make it easier and give you confidence. I would have been bricking it totally turning up there to compete, having not even seen it. (I was bricking it turning up as a spectator, if I’m really honest).
Funny moment – the first dog picked up a beer can out of the bracken after about 20 seconds and retrieved it straight to hand – a real crowd pleaser! (not sure if this was an elimination or they were joking, but he carried on!)
It was nice to see a few faces of those who I had met at the local gun dog club training day a few weeks ago, and there was a lot longer to chat at the working test as there was a lot of standing around.
With so much standing around, it was a great chance to share stories, pick up advice, and troubleshoot with people who have been doing this for many years.
If you need a pee, you need to pee in the woods – if you don’t like doing that, then also see it as a working test of your bladder control – I won’t comment on my performance.
I didn’t see anyone’s dogs run off and no one looked stressed.

So all in all, a good day out and maybe next time I’ll take the dog!

I came away thinking, that there’s nothing really to lose going to one of these working tests and everything to gain. Fresh air, good conversation, new experiences and the dogs seemed to love it.

It was a great experience; I’d encourage anyone to go along and watch/help out to see what working tests are like.

Photo Taken By Charlotte Bell

A big thank you to Charlotte for writing this guest post for our community! We hope you enjoyed it as much as we did.

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave them below. Alternatively, you can get in touch with us via our Facebook page or Instagram account.

Have you been to a working test before? What was your experience like? Let us know in the comment section below

If you enjoyed reading this post, you may enjoy our masterclass on

‘An introduction to Field Trials, the dos & dont’s , along with a splash of etiquette.’ by Sarah Miles

Rules of competing can be found on most group websites or on the Kennel Club Website

Rescuing a High-Drive Dog During the Lockdown: A Trainer’s Perspective

Guest post by LWDG Group Expert Samantha Thorneycroft Taylor

I don’t often write about my dogs on social media, but I wanted to share a little story about Marshall my German Shepherd x Malinois, a mix of two high drive breeds. I’m hoping this post will include several ‘messages’ within it for those working with any high-drive dog.

The background Story of Marshall

In November 2021, I heard of a dog who needed a new home, a German Shepherd x Malinois (a mix of two high drive breeds) who had been purchased during the lockdown as a first dog for a young couple living in a small house in a city. I suspect the breeder may have led the couple up the garden path. Demand for puppies soared during the lockdown, and many people decided to breed their dogs for profit.

The dog in question had, understandably, grown into a large dog; he weighs over 5 1/2 stone and is taller than me when standing on his back legs. In addition, he had severe resource guarding issues and a bite history – because of this, rescue centres wouldn’t touch him, so the owners were faced with two choices – find him a new home privately or have him put to sleep for behavioural reasons.

Initially, they had lots of enquiries about him. But, all credit to the owners – they wouldn’t let him go to anyone that had no knowledge of the breed(s) or a substantial understanding/background in dog training as they didn’t want anyone else to end up in the same situation that they had.

Bringing Him Home

When Marshall arrived, you couldn’t go near him when he was eating – his reaction was to display inappropriate behaviours. You couldn’t easily walk him in public – his response was to go up on his hind legs and display other problematic behaviours. The first time my parents learnt, I had taken him on when he was on his hind legs, mouthing my arm, as they drove past (the cause of this reaction was a lone person walking down the road minding his own business!).

If we let him roam the house, he would find something to steal/chew, and any distraction/ redirection/correction would result in his warning (snarling) and then escalating these inappropriate behaviours if we continued to try to distract/redirect/correct.

If he saw another dog, he would throw all sorts of shapes, and when Marshall couldn’t get to them, he would display inappropriate behaviours again.

The First Few Months

The first few weeks/couple of months were hard work, but I was, and still am, determined not to let him down – he has stolen my heart and is here to stay. Jo has a nickname for him; I’ll let her share that one with you.

I’ve spent hours and hours working with him, and his improvement is massive; we’re by no means ‘there’, but we’re on a good path with the occasional hiccup.

It’s worth mentioning at this point that there is a considerable possibility that his behaviour worsened once he’d arrived with us and that he didn’t show these reactions with his previous owners as much as he was with us – this isn’t to say that our home is not as good as his previous one, just that his whole world had been turned upside down. He had no idea who we were or where he was.

Any rescue dog needs time to adjust and learn where they are now in their forever home – we were his new guardians, and he could trust us.

When he’s eating, I can now sit next to him, adding bits of kibble to his bowl and stroking his head/ neck/face/body. I’ve not used a mixture of high level and low-level treats for this boy – a food reward is either some of his kibble or a small dry training treat.

Due to his rapid escalation of excitement, emotions, and inappropriate behaviours, trying to reward him with a juicy piece of steak would likely have encouraged his emotional stance to rise further and quicker.

I can now play with his collar when he is eating but not yet if I’ve sat him up mid-meal (work in progress). He can be walked alongside a select few of my dogs and remain calm. He can watch deer/other wildlife frolic and run off without losing his head. He’s learnt to retrieve, which includes willingly giving up the item at the end of the retrieve.

This dog needs clear boundaries; for him, it needs to be black and white – there are no grey areas. So we crate trained him upon his arrival, and he has this safe place where he can decompress, chill out, reflect on the day’s happenings, and relax.

It also keeps us safe. When Marshall is out of his crate, he has my undivided attention; again, this is to keep all of us (him included) safe and under ‘control’. When he is out, I can ensure that the environment is level and nothing will raise the threshold and tip him over the edge – this helps to lay the foundations to calm and success.

He is in his crate whilst we eat at the table next to him. I don’t reward him whilst we’re eating or at the table, as I don’t want him to need my attention when I give my children the attention they need. Likewise, I don’t want him to expect food/reward while eating my meals; in fact, I rarely pay him any attention while sitting at the table.

He gets his reward for calm behaviour after we’ve finished, after the table is cleared and when we’re washed up. Whilst this may seem cruel to some, I’m building a behaviour pattern that will (hopefully) eventually lead to him lying calmly on his bed with no crate whilst we eat and no expectation on his part of my interaction whilst I am doing so.

Being Around Children

There is no ‘play’ with the children currently; he is learning that they’re here and that they’re an integral part of our family unit, but until I can ensure that he isn’t going to get overly bouncy or carried away with himself, then I don’t allow it. I also need to be certain that the children aren’t going to get over-excited and unintentionally tip the balance – my children have a thorough understanding of animals, especially dogs. However, they are still children, and they do still occasionally get overexcited themselves. Some of you may feel that he is overdoing it, but his boundaries need to be firm and precise.

Due to his nature, I make most of his choices for him; he is what I would term ‘fear aggressive’. If he feels something is beyond his control, he will react in a way that is not appropriate. If we encounter something that builds his emotions, I take control of the situation and let him know that I am in control and that he doesn’t need to react – he genuinely needs me to make this decision, this choice, on his behalf right now (this may change as time goes on). I have watched his emotions rise, his behaviour change and his reactions worsen (sometimes by something as simple as seeing a person 100 yards away).

In the early days, I tried to ignore the behaviour and ‘walk through’ his reactions, but I soon learned that he needed a “no, this is not your choice to make” from me, and the success increased tenfold. First, however, I need to be firm and positive in my actions. If he senses any uncertainty from me, he will assume he has to take responsibility for whatever has caused a spike within his brain.

I spend a lot of time working on teaching him to settle on an evening, to get Marshall to lay down and completely switch off. Watch Jemma’s ‘Settle’ Masterclass if you need tips on this.

Last evening, he slept by my feet whilst I watched a film and sent some emails – I could change position, have a drink, make a phone call, use the tv remote, and he just laid there, content and calm.

I cannot yet get up without having a shadow (I now have a bathroom companion!), and he wears a lead so that I can assume control if it’s needed. In time, his settle training will improve and expand, and over time, he’ll sleep on his bed whilst I come and go, but the foundations to success are slowly being trained.

Dog Trainers Have Problems Too

I guess the point of this post is to say that we are all the same; it’s easy to assume that, as a dog trainer, all of my dogs must be perfect and that we don’t have the same struggles that you do. But unfortunately, this is often not the case. As I’ve spent more time with this new lad, my other dog’s training has ‘suffered’ a little. I, for one, am looking forward to longer evenings and less mud so that I can play catch up!

Any dog can be tricky to train, and any breed can have its difficulties, but we need to learn to harness what the breed traits are. For example, not many field-trial bred spaniels will be happy with a potter around the dog park, and many working bred collies will start to nip and herd if their mental stimulation needs are not met.

Malinois are produced for protection (there is a reason that they are favoured amongst the police force and the military services); it’s in their natural genetic makeup to protect and to bite. They are incredibly loyal once you have gained their trust and cannot cope with an ‘average’ home life environment.

It has been scientifically proven that certain Malinois contain a specific gene that I refer to as the ‘neurotic’ gene; this gene (PolyA22/PolyA22) is linked to aggression. Unfortunately, there are some Malinois out there that no matter how much time, effort, and training you put in, there is a part of them that will override any sense, and they have a ‘moment’.

There is no ‘one size fits all approach or just one training method that works for this dog, or my other purebred Malinois for that matter. I work with him with a wide variety of training approaches – food reward and marker word reward (primarily for obedience and positional work), verbal praise, and some Gundog training is thrown on there for good measure, too (he loves to use his nose and enjoys quartering, I will look to train him to do a scent work in time – I’ll be speaking with Dawn Seago about that one I’m sure!), but he needs variety. He needs to learn to accept change.

Change in that someone has knocked at the door, change in that the children have gone to school for the day, or that it’s the school holidays and so they’re at home more), change in that a strange dog has come into view, or change in that we’re not going for his training session at precisely 10 am. All of these things play a big part in how our day is going to go, and I often have to adapt my plans for his training before, or even during, a training session.

Remember; every day with your dog contains a positive. Sometimes you might have to look quite challenging to find that positive. Still, every single day something will have happened that you can call a win – it may have been a polite sit whilst you opened the door/prepared your dog’s meal/waited for a car to pass before you could cross the road, it may have been the delivery to hand that you’ve been working so hard on, it may have been a split second period of eye contact when you spotted another dog bounding towards you in the park. It may have been a big win or a minor win, but there will always be something positive!

Keep training, keep smiling, and stay consistent.

How to Allow Your Dog Free Time While Maintaining Safety & Obedience

Many gundog owners struggle with the decision of whether or not to give their dogs free time to roam whilst out walking. On the one hand, it’s lovely to see your dog run and explore; on the other hand, you don’t want them getting into trouble or running off.

In this podcast and blog post, LWDG Group Expert Samantha Thorneycroft Taylor explains how to find a balance between giving your dog free time and maintaining both safety and obedience.

The History of Gundogs

Gundog free time is an essential topic for any dog owner to consider. Gundogs are dogs bred and trained to work with hunters in the field. These dogs are highly intelligent and have a strong work ethic.

Throughout history, these working dogs would have led a different life to the one they have now where, as multi-purpose dogs, they are both trained to do a job and also to live as a part of our families and be involved in family life.

However, they also have a strong sense of independence. As a result, they may not always follow their owner’s commands. This can be frustrating for owners who are not used to working with such a wilful breed of dog.

Gundogs need plenty of exercise and stimulation. If they are left alone in the house all day without training, they may become bored and restless. This can lead to problems such as chewing or digging. Therefore, it is crucial to provide gundogs with plenty of mental and physical stimulation opportunities.

The pros and cons of giving dogs free time

On the one hand, it can be argued that dogs should be given as much free time as possible. Dogs are social animals that thrive on interaction with their owners and other dogs. Allowing them to roam freely gives them the opportunity to explore their environment and socialise with other animals.

On the other hand, it is essential to consider the safety of both the dog and the community when deciding to allow a dog to roam without supervision or social rules.

Dogs that are not properly trained can be a danger to themselves and others, and they may also become more inclined to ignore your commands in favour of becoming self-employed.

As a result, it is important to weigh the pros and cons of giving dogs free time before making a decision.

Tips on how to allow dogs free time while maintaining safety

Dogs are loyal companions that provide us with endless hours of fun and exercise, but they also need some free time to relax. If you’re careful and take a few simple precautions, you can help your dog stay safe while still enjoying the outdoors.

First, make sure your dog is trained correctly and has a good understanding of basic obedience commands. This will give you more control when you’re out on walks together.

Second, keep your dog on a leash in areas with cars or other potential hazards. And finally, be sure to stay aware of your surroundings and keep an eye on your dog.

By following these simple tips, you can help your furry friend enjoy the freedom he deserves while keeping him safe and sound.

The podcast and post discuss the pros and cons of giving dogs free time to roam whilst out walking and offer tips on allowing dogs free time while maintaining safety.

Dogs need plenty of exercise and stimulation and should be appropriately trained before being allowed to roam free. In addition, owners should be aware of their surroundings and keep an eye on their dogs at all times when outdoors.

What are your thoughts on giving dogs freedom? Let us know in the comments below! Do you give your dog(s) freedom when out walking, or do you keep them on a leash? Let us know in the comments below! We would love to hear from you! Thanks for reading! Until next week, bye for now

Is It Time To Completely Stop Punishing Our Gundogs?

Podcast with Becky Brunton, followed by an article by Rob Alleyne.

In the LWDG POD DOG latest episode, LWDG Founder Jo Perrott interviews Becky Brunton about her journey from despair to dog training success. Becky talks about how she nearly gave up on training her dog Luna after being encouraged to use abusive methods but then found the strength to never give up on her dream of becoming a successful gundog owner and found a better way.

This is an inspiring story that will motivate you to never give up on your dreams, no matter how difficult they may seem at first!

We have paired this podcast, with a wonderful article by Rob Alleyne on ‘Is It Time To Stop Punishing Dogs’ where he looks at the reality of using punishment within dog training and asks us to look at how we wholeheartedly remove the kind of abuse that was suggested to Becky but ask ourselves how far the other way do we go before we cause problems of a different kind.

BEFORE READING/LISTENING

These outlooks have been paired by us in this blog to make you truly THINK about what kind of handler/trainer you want to be. It will not be easy to listen to or read and will press you to seriously look at a variety of training choices we have available, and what suits you.

They are not related in their story at all and are only given here together to hopefully help you to think about the whole picture, and help you choose your own training handler process going forward.

Also included below is a link to a masterclass webinar by our amazing Featured Experts Emma Stevens, Claire Denyer, and Samantha Thorneycroft-Taylor as they deliver a live session to a 100 participants on the topic of Correction.

Rob Alleyne

Rob Alleyne is a highly accredited dog trainer within the UK and a member of The Kennel Club. Robert is a signatory to the Registration Council for Dog Training and Behaviour Practitioners (RCDTBP), and he has lectured on canine behaviour on many occasions for different groups and organisations, both nationally and internationally.

Introduction

For millennia we have used the punishment of those around us for what we each consider to be wrong-doings. We have extended that approach to our children and to other species. But for at least the last forty years, there have been those who have felt that this approach isn’t working and that it is morally wrong to treat others this way.

This theory says that punishing our children is mentally detrimental to them and that it ultimately leads to a deterioration in their general behaviour and long-term damage to their self-esteem. We have been told that science has proven that we should instead ignore their ‘bad’ behaviour whenever possible, and instead reward their good behaviour.

This will boost their self-esteem, make them work harder to be rewarded, and create more well-rounded, confident individuals, who will far better fit into society. We should try whenever humanly possible to support them in whatever it is that they want, and allow them to fully express themselves so that they have a minimal amount of disappointment and frustration.

Children should be supported, nurtured and have nothing but positivity, even when they are behaving badly. And I wholeheartedly agree with all of this – at least in theory. But what seriously concerns me is that science and research aside, how well is this working in reality?

What’s The Reality?

The reality is that although children have never had so many resources and freedom, many are out of control. They have become aggressive, short-tempered, insecure and fragile.

Isn’t it a strange coincidence that in the same period where we’ve been encouraged to ignore bad behaviour in our children and they seem to have lost their minds, our dogs have gone off the rails too?

Like most of the behaviourists and trainers I know, I have never seen so many clients with dogs with aggression and insecurity issues, and it seems to get worse year on year. And of all of the so-called positive-only trainers I know, I don’t know a single one with what I would consider a well-behaved dog – not one.

So Why Doesn’t Positive Only Training Work?

The answer to this is very simple. For a dog to choose to carry out a requested behaviour for an offered reward, it has to accept that reward over any other available option. He has to want it more than the other potential rewards that he can get aside from the one you are offering.

The difficulty for most of my clients, many of whom have already paid one, two, three or even more force-free trainers and behaviourists before contacting me, is that there are so many situations where they don’t have a reward that can compete with the ones the dog can get himself.

Many of them say that their dog will work very well for food treats and/or toys in the house but ignores them completely as soon as he is outside and the lead or long-line is taken off. If you have a dog with a high prey drive, for example, owners quickly find that food as a reward just doesn’t work, unless the owner can quickly produce their own prey animal, to save the dog from running after the wrong one.

However, trying this as a technique isn’t enormously practical, and obviously runs the risk of the dog coming to harm, and prosecution for the owner.

Problems With Force-Free Training

Perhaps the most significant problem with force-free training is that it never actually teaches the dog that he cannot still do the thing that the owner didn’t originally want him to. Owners who have tried using it to stop a dog from jumping up on visitors for example, almost invariably find that the dog resumes jumping up as soon as the treats being used to distract him are put away.

The other problem with this technique is that it requires every visitor to have to take responsibility for training the dog for the owner. The owner is not required to train their own dog – the guest is! Expect to quickly get fewer visitors.

Owners will be told phrases like ‘dog training is a marathon, not a sprint’, and to ‘expect training to take a very long time to show results’, or that ‘there are no quick fixes’ in dog training. What the trainer is really doing is preparing the owner for not seeing any significant improvements for a very long time, if ever.

I suspect that the vast majority of trainers and behaviourists are neither positive-only, or punishment-only, though I often see articles where the two are pitted against each other as training methods, as though they are mutually exclusive.

Most trainers I believe, are reward-based – as am I, but will use some form of non-abusive negative consequence if the dog decides to disregard what the owner wants and the incentive that they are offering, and this approach is by far the most effective and successful.

My Findings and Nature

I have had clients contact me saying that I am the dog’s last hope, as they have already spent fortunes on dog trainers and behaviourists who have taken their money. However, there has been no improvement in the dog’s behaviour, as all the owner was given was management strategies and no actual training.

The owners are often staggered by the improvement in their dog’s behaviour even while I am still with them, and often all I would have done is taught the dog that when the owners tell him to do something that he has already been taught, that compliance isn’t optional, that they actually mean it.

One of the first lessons a bitch will teach her puppies is the consequences of not listening to her, usually at weaning time. We don’t see this as abuse, even though she sounds pretty frightening to her puppies. The puppies are not traumatised, they merely learn a vital life lesson – that no means no.

We don’t see this as cruel, and we allow her to do it, as we understand that it is an important part of their education. If they stayed with their parents, like with most animals who rear their own young and would then live together in a social group, punishment would be part of their education.

This is in order to help them recognise their place within the group, which we still do with our own children. However, we are being led to believe that there is one exception to this rule – people and dogs. I believe that this is a terrible and costly mistake.

What About How The Dog Feels?

Behavioural issues are apparently the number one reason for owners putting their dogs into rescue. If dogs could understand our language, and we could ask the dogs in rescue why they think that they ended up there, a great many would reply that they had no idea.

And if it was explained to them that they were given up on because they wouldn’t stop their unwanted behaviour, how many would reply that they didn’t know that the behaviour was unwanted as no one ever told them?

How tragic. Positively-only, force-free training is failing owners and dogs, and the sooner we accept this, and start FULLY educating them, the less dogs will end up being given up on.

So is it time to stop punishing dogs? No, of course it isn’t. Dogs punish other dogs all the time, and there’s a reason for that. A degree of fear is an important survival tool, necessary to help teach a good choice from a bad one. It is quite literally a lifesaver. Without any fear, a species would quickly die out. EVERY species knows that there are consequences to making the wrong decision, and this helps them to make better ones. Without an awareness of danger, we make very bad choices.

That is why every intelligent species uses punishment on those who make what is perceived as the wrong choice, including us – the most intelligent and yet truly stupid species on the planet.

Aversive or Abusive?

We are told that aversive tools shouldn’t be used because they can be misused. But what is there that we can access that can’t be misused, should that be the intention of the user? I have worked with owners who have used a clicker as a precursor to punishment and created a dog terrified of clickers.

I have seen dogs distressed and confused by the misuse of food and toys. Dogs who resource guard food do so because in their minds, someone has taught them to be fearful of the loss of something that they see as a valuable reward.

I have seen many posts demanding that certain tools should be restricted or banned as they can be misused. And yet many, many dogs have been injured or even killed as a result of toys, leads and collars, and yet there are no calls for the banning of these things.

Why not? Because we hope that the majority of people using them will do so responsibly. Why is it any different for the use of an aversive? If I take a ten week old puppy to a busy railway station and let it hear passing trains, the loudest, scariest noise it has ever heard, or to a busy road and let buses and lorries thunder past, people will say that this is important exposure necessary for the puppies development.

But if that same puppy is biting someone to the point where it is drawing blood, and I rattle a can with some pebbles in it just loudly enough to make it stop, people say I’m cruel, and that I will traumatise the puppy to the point where I will lose its trust and do irreparable damage to it.

Where is the logic in this? Its own mother would admonish it far more loudly than I would ever have shaken a rattle can.

Aversive and abusive are not the same thing, regardless of what we are being told.

The Science Behind Correction- How To Correct Constructively

Watch Now!

If you would like to learn more about correction options, you can view our webinar on Positive Correction and our Evening With Robert Alleyne. Both links are below.

7 Steps to Train Your Dog to Stop on a Whistle Command: Learn from an Expert

Do you have trouble getting your dog to stop when you give the command? Well, you’re not alone! Many dog owners find this difficult. Luckily, there is a way to train your dog to stop on a whistle command. In this podcast, we will talk to LWDG Featured Expert Michelle Oseman, who explains precisely how it’s done.

Whistle Command: Sit/Stop/Look at me. Whistle – one sharp pip

STAGE 1

Start by blowing the whistle and reward when the dog looks at you.

STAGE 2

Next, walk your dog slowly at heel, blow the whistle, then use a verbal command to sit – sit should be quick, and then reward. Once this is a sharp, snappy sit, blow your stop whistle command before saying sit. Once this is producing a sharp sit, try just using the whistle command. When this is also producing a sharp sit, move to the next stage.

STAGE 3

Walk at your dog at heel, blow the whistle, verbal command and when the dog sits, spin around in front of them with your hand high in the air. Walk forward and praise/stroke and reward. Return away from the dog, remind them to sit, and return to the heel position.

STAGE 4

Once the dog is comfortable with the sit and you in front, put some distance between you both when stepping away from them, so the dog learns the ‘picture’ of sitting from you at a distance.

STAGE 5

Repeat the walking at heel, whistle, sit, spin in front but this time have a tennis ball or dummy in your hand and hold this high in the air. As long as the dog sits quickly and is focused on you, drop the ball/dummy behind you. As you are standing between the dog and the ball/dummy, you can block them from running in to retrieve the ball/dummy if they try to do so. If they stay in the sit position, move one step to the side so they can see the ball/dummy and send them to retrieve the ball.

STAGE 6

The next stage is to do all the above but throw the ball/dummy out behind you over your head. A fast thrown ball/dummy is more tempting than one just dropped by your side. If the dog stays sat, they can retrieve it. If they move, you collect the ball/dummy. This stage teaches them that sit at a distance means sit until you tell them anything different.

STAGE 7

Whilst the dog is hunting/running around, blow your stop whistle, arm in the air as you back up the whistle with a firm ‘Sit’ command. If the dog sits immediately, throw the ball/dummy out to one side for them to retrieve. Don’t worry if the dog runs in on the ball/dummy initially as it’s the quick sit we’re looking for. In time you can increase the delay between the sit and ball/dummy throwing to get the dog steady to the ball.

Remember when you are looking for the final bit of steadiness to remind the dog to sit between the initial sit to the whistle and you throwing the ball or dummy – always remind the dog of their job before you move or throw.

DO NOT MOVE ON TO THE NEXT STAGE UNTIL YOU HAVE PROOFED THE CURRENT STAGE IN A FEW DIFFERENT LOCATIONS AND ENVIRONMENTS.

We hope you enjoyed this podcast and found it helpful! If you have any questions, feel free to reach out to us. We would be more than happy to help. Until next time, happy training!

Is The Rent Due On Your Dogs Success?

The Rent Is Due On Your Dogs Success

If you want your relationship with your dog to be successful, you have to be consistent. It can be tough to stay consistent when you’re tired or when something comes up that interrupts your training routine, but it’s essential if you want your dog to learn what you’re trying to teach. In this podcast, episode and blog, Certified Canfield Success Trainer (and LWDG Founder) Jo Perrott discusses the importance of consistency and offers some tips on how to stay consistent when training your dog!

Consistency is key to success.

No one achieves perfect dog obedience overnight. It takes years of time, dedication, and a lot of hard work. But if you’re willing to put in the effort with your dog, you can achieve anything you set your mind to.

One of the most essential elements of success is consistency in both your training and your attitude. That means showing up and giving it your all every day, even when you don’t feel like it. It means staying focused and on track, even when things get tough. And it means never giving up, even when it would be easier to throw in the towel.

It can be so easy to let your dog’s behaviour or response slide at home. We can ask for a sit and say nothing when they head towards another room. It’s our attitude toward these small things that affect our long term success.

If you can be consistent in your efforts, you’ll eventually reach your goal and help your dog succeed.

Don’t be discouraged if you don’t see results right away; you’re teaching another species that doesn’t understand your language to follow it. Instead, just keep doing what you’re doing, and eventually, you’ll start to see the progress you’re looking for.

You have to put in the time and effort to achieve your goals.

Time and effort are two of the most important ingredients for success. You can’t just expect to sit back and relax and have your dog training goals fall into your lap. You have to be willing to put in the hard work necessary to achieve them. This means setting aside time each week to work solely towards your goals and being consistent in your efforts all day at home.

The first step is to identify your goal before each session. What would you like to achieve? Once you know what you want to accomplish, you can develop a plan to make it happen. This may involve setting smaller goals or taking specific actions to help you move closer to your goal. It’s also important to be realistic about what you can achieve and how long it will take. Trying to accomplish too much too quickly can be overwhelming and lead to discouragement. The Magic Month Planner was designed to help you succeed in every single session at this.

Don’t give up when things get tough – push through and keep going.

It can be tempting just to give up when the going gets tough. After all, why put yourself through all that stress and effort when you could just quit, and your dog could live as a pet without ever needing to stop on a whistle? However, giving up is seldom the best solution. When things are at their darkest, we often see the most incredible breakthroughs.

Don’t give up if you’re facing a challenge – push through and keep going. You may not always succeed in one training session; it may take ten, but you’ll never know what your dog is capable of until you give them the chance to learn and understand.

Even if you don’t achieve your original goal with your dog, you’ll undoubtedly improve their behaviour and obedience. So next time you’re feeling tempted to give up, remember that it’s often when things are most challenging that we see the most incredible progress forward with our four-legged friends.

Take it one step at a time, and don’t try to do everything at once

Overwhelmed with everything you have to do in life alongside what you need to do to train your dog? It can be tricky when it feels like there are just not enough hours in the day to get everything done.

But here’s a little secret: you don’t have to do it all at once. Trying to do too much at once is usually counterproductive. When you’re feeling overwhelmed, take a deep breath and remind yourself that you can handle whatever comes your way – one step at a time. Missing one focused training session doesn’t damage your training, but not being consistent in day to day life can. So try not to let life’s struggles sabotage your dog’s training journey.

Break down your to-do list into manageable tasks and work on one thing at a time. You’ll be surprised at how much more productive you are when you’re not trying to do ten different things at once. So next time you’re feeling frazzled, remember: take it one step at a time and get through it.

Believe in yourself and your ability to achieve success

The most important thing you can do if you want to succeed as your dog’s trainer is to believe in yourself. It’s not easy, but it’s so important if you’re going to see success.

When you believe in yourself, you are more likely to be calm and consistent and put in the necessary hard work. You will also be more resilient when facing setbacks.

When you have faith in your abilities, it gives you the strength to keep going when things get tough. It also allows you to take risks and seize opportunities, knowing that you have the power to overcome any challenges that come your way.

Remember that everyone experiences failure at some point; what you do after a defeat determines whether or not you will be successful. So don’t let a few setbacks stop you from achieving your goals. Instead, keep believing in yourself and your ability to succeed, and eventually, you will reach your destination.

Stay focused on your goals and what you want to achieve

Achieving goals can be tough, no matter how big or small they may be. It can be easy to get side tracked or discouraged along the way. That’s why it’s crucial to stay focused on what you want to achieve long term with your dog.

An effective way to do this is to create a vision board. This is a board where you place pictures or words representing your dog training goals. Seeing these visuals every day will help to keep you motivated and focused on what you want to achieve.

To create a vision board, start gathering magazine images, photographs, and other items that represent your goals. Once you have collected various items, begin arranging them on a board or piece of poster board.

As you arrange the items, think about how they relate to your goals and what they mean to you. Once you are satisfied with the overall layout of the board, use glue or tape to secure the items in place.

Display your vision board in a prominent location where you will see it every day. Take time each day to reflect on your goals and visualise yourself achieving them. With regular reflection and visualisation, you will begin to see your goals as reality.

You can also try setting reminders for yourself or telling friends and family about your goals to help hold yourself accountable. Whatever method you choose, staying focused on your goals is essential for achieving them.

Podcast Summary

Success leaves clues, and one of the best ways to achieve success is to learn from those who have done what you want to do. That’s why we invite you to join the LWDG Society Squad, where we share training, resources and support so that you can stay focused on your dog training goals and make steady progress towards achieving them.

We believe in you and know that anything is possible with hard work and dedication. So what are you waiting for? It’s time to start making your dreams a reality!

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Training Your Gundog to Retrieve: Tips and Techniques for Success

Gundogs have been bred for centuries for their ability to assist hunters in locating and retrieving game. These highly skilled dogs come in various breeds, such as Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, and Spaniels. Gundogs play a crucial role in hunting, as they are trained to locate and retrieve game that hunters have shot down. A successful gundog must have a range of skills, that may include scenting, pointing, flushing, and retrieving. Retrieving, in particular, is an essential skill that all gundogs must possess to be effective in the field. In this week’s podcast and blog post, we’ll explore the different types of retrieves that gundogs can be trained to perform and offer tips for training and maintaining your gundog’s retrieving skills.

Types of Retrieves

There are several types of retrieves that gundogs can be trained to perform, including retrieving from land, water, and other challenging environments. Retrieving from land involves a gundog running out and bringing back a dummy or game that has been shot and fallen on the land. Retrieving from water is similar, except that the dummy or game has fallen in a body of water, and the gundog must swim out to retrieve it. Gundogs may also be trained to retrieve from other challenging environments, such as dense underbrush or high cover. Proper handling techniques are essential when training for these types of retrieves.

Teaching your gundog to retrieve from different environments is an important part of their training if you want them to retrieve on command. Each environment presents unique challenges that your gundog must learn to overcome. For example, water retrieves require your gundog to be comfortable swimming and have the strength to swim different distances. On the other hand, land retrieves may require your gundog to navigate through dense vegetation or rough terrain. Proper training and conditioning are key to ensuring your gundog can perform these retrieves effectively.

Basic Retrieves

Basic retrieves are the foundation of a gundog’s training. These retrieves may include commands such as “get out” and “hold.” Consistent training and positive reinforcement are crucial when teaching these basic retrieves. To start, you’ll want to choose a specific command and stick to it. For example, if you choose to use “get out” for retrieving a dummy or bird, make sure to use that command consistently throughout training.

When training your gundog to retrieve from land or water, it’s essential to start with short distances and gradually increase the distance as your gundog becomes more comfortable and proficient. Using positive reinforcement, such as treats and praise, is an effective way to motivate your gundog and reinforce good behaviour.

Advanced Retrieves

Advanced retrieves require more complex training and often involve blind retrieves and memory retrieves. A blind retrieve is when a gundog is asked to retrieve an object or game that they have not seen fall. This type of retrieve requires your gundog to rely on your commands and guidance to locate and retrieve the game. Memory retrieves, on the other hand, require your gundog to remember the location of the game and retrieve it on command.

To train your gundog for advanced retrieves, you can use drills and scenarios that simulate real hunting situations. It’s important to use hand signals and vocal cues to guide your gundog to the game’s location. Consistency and repetition are key when training for advanced retrieves, and it may take several training sessions for your gundog to master these skills.

Retrieving Game

Gundogs can be trained to retrieve various types of game, such as birds and small mammals. To train for each type of game, different techniques and methods must be used. For example, for bird retrieving, your gundog must be trained to use its sense of smell to locate the bird and retrieve it gently without causing any damage.

Scent training is a crucial part of training your gundog to retrieve the game. You can use scented dummies or birds during training sessions to help your gundog develop their sense of smell and learn to follow a specific scent. It’s also important to use controlled introductions when training your gundog to retrieve live games, to ensure their safety and that of the game.

Maintaining consistency in training and practising ethical hunting practices are essential when it comes to retrieving game. Remember always to obey hunting laws and regulations and ensure that your gundog is trained to retrieve game safely and efficiently.

Factors that Affect Retrieving

Several factors can affect a gundog’s ability to retrieve, such as weather, terrain, and distractions. It’s essential to adjust your training based on these factors and provide your gundog with the necessary tools and techniques to overcome them.

Weather conditions such as rain, snow, or extreme heat can impact a gundog’s scenting ability and make retrieving more challenging. In these situations, using decoys or scenting aids can be helpful. Training your gundog to retrieve in various types of terrain is also crucial to prepare them for different hunting environments. For example, if you plan to hunt in heavily wooded areas, it’s important to train your gundog to retrieve through dense underbrush.

Distractions such as other animals, sounds, or smells can also impact your gundog’s ability to retrieve. To address this, you can use environmental training techniques that help your gundog learn to focus on the task at hand and ignore distractions.

Maintaining consistency in training and adapting to new situations is essential when it comes to retrieving. Practising in various environments and scenarios will help your gundog develop the necessary skills to retrieve effectively in any situation.

Conclusion

In conclusion, retrieving is a crucial skill that all gundogs must possess to be effective in the field. Gundogs can be trained to perform different types of retrieves, from basic retrieves to more complex ones like blind retrieves and memory retrieves. It’s important to start with basic retrieves and gradually progress to more advanced ones. Scent training, proper handling techniques, and positive reinforcement are all crucial when training your gundog to retrieve.

Retrieving game also requires specialized training, with different techniques used for different types of game. Practising safety and ethical hunting practices is essential when retrieving game. Various factors, such as weather, terrain, and distractions, can impact your gundog’s ability to retrieve, so it’s important to adjust your training accordingly.

Finally, maintaining consistency in training and adapting to new situations are essential for developing and maintaining your gundog’s retrieving skills. Remember to be patient and use positive reinforcement throughout your training journey.

We hope this blog post has provided valuable insights into the world of gundog retrieving and has offered helpful tips for training and maintaining retrieving skills in your gundog. Don’t forget to share your own experiences and training techniques with the community.

52. What to Expect When Entering A Retriever Working Test

Preparing for Blind Retrieves

How Any Pet Dog Can Take Part in Gundog Training

All dog owners want their pets to be happy and enjoy life. For many people, this means taking part in gundog training. But what if your pet dog isn’t a Gundog breed? Can they still take part and enjoy the experience?

The answer is definitely yes! In this podcast and supporting blog post, we will discuss how any pet dog can take part in gundog training and have a great time doing it.

We will also provide some tips on how to get involved with your ‘pet gundog’. Let’s get started!

As a pet owner, you might be wondering how your dog can take part in gundog training if they’re not of the Gundog breed. The answer is that any type of dog can join in on the fun! Gundog training is a great way for your pet to socialize with other dogs and learn new skills. It’s also a great way for you to bond with your pet.

Introducing gundog training for pet dogs

Gundog training is a fun and rewarding way to bond with your dog while also teaching them useful skills. Gundog training typically focuses on teaching dogs how to retrieve canvas dummies ( in place of game birds) from the water or land.

However, the principles of gundog training can be applied to any pet dog, regardless of its breed or size. Gundog training is based on positive reinforcement, meaning that dogs are rewarded for completing tasks correctly. This method of training is not only effective, but it also helps to create a strong bond between dog and owner.

In addition, gundog training can provide mental stimulation for dogs, which is essential for their overall health and wellbeing. If you are looking for a fun and rewarding way to spend time with your dog, then gundog training may be the perfect activity for you.

Any dog can participate in gundog training.

Gundog training is a great way to bond with your dog while also teaching them useful skills. And contrary to popular belief, you don’t need a special breed of dog to participate. Any dog can be trained to be a gundog. The most important thing is that your dog is willing to learn and has the ability to follow basic commands.

If you’re interested in giving gundog training a try, there are a few things you should keep in mind.

First, start with simple exercises and work your way up. Gundog training can be challenging, so it’s important to take things slowly at first. Gundog training helps to instil discipline and focus in dogs, and it can also be a great way to develop your relationship with them. The key to success is to start small and gradually increase the difficulty of the tasks as your dog masters each one.

Secondly, be patient and consistent with your commands. Dogs learn best when they have a clear understanding of what is expected of them; those that are given regular training sessions will quickly learn what is expected of them and will be much better behaved as a result.

Finally, make sure you praise your dog for a job well done – this will help to motivate them and encourage them to continue learning. With a little time and effort, anyone can train their dog to be a gundog.

Tips for getting started with your pet dog

If you’re thinking about starting gundog training with your pet dog, there are a few things you’ll need to take into account. Consider what type of training you want to do with your dog. There are several different types of gundog training, such as retrieving, pointing, and flushing.

Once you’ve decided on the type of training you want to do, you’ll need to find a good instructor. A reputable gundog trainer will be able to teach you the basics and help you get started on the right foot.

A brilliant online training space that will teach you everything you need to know to start is our flagship course Hot Mess Handler.

You’ll also need to make sure that you have the time and patience to commit to training your dog. Gundog training can be time-consuming, so it’s important to make sure that you’re prepared for the commitment.

And finally, be sure to have realistic expectations for your dog. Every dog is different and will learn at its own pace. With patience and persistence, you can help your dog become a well-trained gundog.

The benefits of gundog training for both you and your pet

Gundog training is a great way to bond with your pet while also teaching them valuable skills. Gundog training can help your dog to learn how to respond to commands, stay focused on tasks, and work as part of a team.

In addition, gundog training can also be a great source of exercise for both you and your dog. Gundog training often involves long walks in the countryside, giving you both the opportunity to get some fresh air and explore new surroundings.

Plus, gundog training is a great way to socialise with your pet, helping them to meet new people and make new friends. So, if you’re looking for a fun and rewarding activity for both you and your pet, why not give gundog training a try?

For all ladies reading this, make sure to join our online membership too! We look forward to welcoming you!

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