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Positive -Only V PunitiveTraining: What happened to the middle ground?

It can be confusing trying to decide which dog training approach is best for you and your pet gundog. Do you go with the harsh punishment-based system of olden times or the positive reinforcement-only method? The options are both extreme, and it can be tough to decide which is right for you, if either. In this double-episode podcast and blog post, we’ll discuss the two different approaches in more detail, and discuss the reality of a far more sensible middle ground so that you can make an informed decision about what’s best for your dog!

Episode Part 1

Episode Part 2

Traditional Training Methods

Gundog training methods have been handed down through generations of dog trainers. These methods are based on the principle of establishing communication between the handler and the dog and using this communication to command the dog. In recent years, however, there has been a growing movement away from traditional methods of training gun dogs. Some of the methods can be harsh, and cruel, using fear to train the dog.

Positive-Only Dog Training

Positive-only dog training is a type of dog training that focuses solely on reinforcing desired behaviours. This means that instead of using punishment or any type of correction, positive reinforcement is used to teach dogs the behaviours that we want them to learn. Some of the most common forms of positive reinforcement include treats, praise, and petting.

Although it may take a little longer to see results with positive-only dog training, it is seen as a much more humane and effective way to train your dog. However, the length it can take for a dog to understand what is being asked can lead to frustration for both dog and owner.

The Middle Ground

So, what’s the middle ground? Well, it’s a training approach that takes the best from both traditional and positive-only dog training methods. This means that you can use both positive reinforcement and constructive corrections to train your dog.

However, the focus should always be on reinforcing desired behaviours rather than ever punishing undesired behaviours. Punishment is never used, instead constructive correction where you help the dog to learn replaces it.

This type of training is often seen as the most effective way to train a gun dog, as it takes into account the strengths and weaknesses of both traditional and positive-only approaches.

Work With The Dog In Front Of You

When it comes to dog training, there is no one-size-fits-all approach. The best way to train your dog will depend on a number of factors, including your dog’s personality, age, and the behaviours you want to reinforce. We constantly teach our students to ‘work with the dog in front of them and to use different styles and methods of training to support the dog learning. The importance of finding a sensible middle ground when training your gun dog can’t be overstated.

Individual Learning Plan

Dogs are individuals, just like people, and they learn best when they are challenged in a way that suits their specific needs. That’s why it’s important to create an individual learning program when training your dog.

By taking into account your dog’s unique personality, abilities, and interests, you can tailor the learning process to their individual needs. As a result, they will be more engaged in the process and more likely to retain the information.

In addition, by providing a stimulating and personalised learning experience, you can help your dog reach their full potential. So if you’re looking to get the most out of your furry friend, remember to create an individual learning program that is tailored specifically for them.

5 Things To Know Before Gundog Training

Training your gundog can be a great experience, but it is important to know what you are getting into. Here are five things you need to know before gundog training.

As you are probably aware, gundogs can be an extremely obedient and terrific addition to the family. However, your gundog will need to be trained, and you need to have thought about a few areas and make some important decisions before starting out.

Know As Much As You Can About The Breed Of Your Dog

 

A gundog is a hunting dog that has been bred over generations to find, flush and retrieve birds or animals. Gundogs are typically divided up into three categories: gun dogs (pointer), spaniels and retrievers.

You need to know which category your gundog falls into before you start training. There are also a whole range of additional working dogs that fall into other breed categories but for whom you will need to learn as much as you can too.

Gun dogs (pointer) typically point and hold/lock up the animal, spaniels flush out and retrieve animals, and retrievers fetch back birds or animals to you. You’ll want to train your dog not only how to work with people but also with the natural instincts they were born with.

Many gundog/working breeds have high amounts of energy, so it’s important to train your gundog properly from the beginning. You may never intend to use your dog for hunting, but you still need to provide the stimulus it requires to have a happy and healthy life.

The breed of the gundog you own will determine what type of training they need and how much work is needed for them to become a well-rounded gundog.

Puppy Training

Gundogs are intelligent breeds that can be stubborn at times, so the key is to keep puppy training fun and engaging. This means setting up “games” for your gundog pup where he or she has a chance to learn new things, but also make some good decisions on their own as well. Your gundog can learn more than 20 commands, so initially teach them the basic foundations and then move on to additional cues as you both progress.

Training Your Gundog Breed

A gundogs intelligence makes it very easy for them to pick up on new things but only if the motivation is there!

Gundogs are not the right choice for everyone in terms of training needs. If you are not able to spend a lot of time with your gundog, then they may become bored or frustrated which can lead them to be disobedient.

They enjoy hunting in open spaces, however, in spaces like this, you will lose their focus when they are young. Start your training in boring environments such as inside the house, and then, when you feel they are ready, opt for outside locations where they will have plenty of room to roam and explore with their nose!

Keep in mind, gundogs can be very sensitive animals so any harsh or forceful training methods may make them timid or worse afraid of you which is exactly what you do not want when it comes down to gundog training! If this happens then there’s no way getting around it; retraining will need to happen later on once they’ve matured more and you have regained their trust.

Make gundog training something that is fun for both of you. This means making sure they are getting plenty of exercise, mental stimulation and positive reinforcement! Gundog breeds need time to think things through especially if they feel pressured into doing something before their ready. If this happens, there’s a good chance that he will start ignoring anything you say which can lead them to be naughty.

The age and health of your gundog matter when training

 

Gundogs have a very high energy level, meaning they can get into trouble if not given enough exercise throughout the day – this being said it’s important for gundog owners to ensure their dog’s health and age is considered in order for them to remain healthy and happy!

It’s important for gundog owners to be aware of the breed and health-related issues that affect gundogs. For example, gundogs can suffer from a range of joint problems such as osteoarthritis which is very painful and uncomfortable – this means it’s essential owners pay close attention to how much exercise they’re giving their dog in order not to overstress these joints!

Age Considerations

As well as the health of gundogs, gundog owners must be aware of their dog’s age and how this will affect them when training new behaviours – no matter your dog’s breed or size you should not start any kind of formal gundog training until they are both mentally and physically ready, although it is advisable to introduce early socialisation skills and general obedience commands from a puppy.

Younger dogs can easily become overwhelmed by all kinds of stimuli which could lead to anxiety issues later on in life but this is not to say gundog owners should wait until their dog reaches old age before training them.

Owners need to be aware of the physical and mental capabilities that each breed has. It’s important gundogs are given enough exercise on a daily basis which can also help with reducing stress levels in dogs as well!

Gundogs only live for around 12 years (please note this depends on your gundog’s size and breed) so make sure you’re doing everything possible for its health now rather than trying to sort out any issues after the damage has already been done!

Be consistent with what you teach your gundog

 

The most important characteristic that a gundog owner must have is consistency. This means not only being consistent in your training methods, but also from one day to the next and from one person to another. You need to be absolutely consistent with how to train a dog.

If dogs are even slightly unsure of what is expected of them, there’s very little chance of success when it comes to gundog training which requires precision, accuracy and timing on the part of both the handler as well as the dog.

However, gundog training must also be consistent in terms of day-to-day expectations from the trainer. This means not only ensuring that you are always on train your gundog but it is important for you to stick with a schedule so you can plan and track your dogs’ development.

Consistency lays down clear guidelines for dogs to follow, so gundog training becomes much more efficient and continuity in understanding is important. If we understand one thing and then switch to another, we can’t remember what we learned before and it’s harder to make any progress.

Staying with the same ideas consistently also enables the gundog to notice patterns and see more quickly what we are requiring from them. It is important to maintain consistency if you want to make sure that your gundog doesn’t forget what they’ve learned.

Keep training sessions short

 

Most people are unaware that gundog training is not actually about the length of time spent in a session. It’s about what you do during that time. Training sessions should be short, with an emphasis on rest and recovery periods so that the dog has time to process what it has learnt.

The most important thing is to make sure your dogs are not overworked and shut down mentally. A dog can remain physically active for many hours, but can only focus and mentally concentrate for far shorter lengths of time.

Training should be done in several short sessions throughout the week rather than all at once or on one day per week. This helps keep dogs interested and less bored because their brains are stimulated more often. Starting basic obedience training early with young gundogs can help reduce behaviour problems as adults because their natural instincts are strong and you need a relationship that makes you more interesting than the environment you are in.

The training sessions should be broken up with plenty of steadiness, training exercises and rest periods. The gundog training sessions should be about having fun and keeping the dog interested. If you find yourself doing a lot of talking to your gundogs, then it is going on too long.

Use positive reinforcement techniques instead of punishment for better results

 

Another important part of gundog training is teaching your dog to be obedient and independent. This means that they need to know how you want them to behave without having an actual command, as well as knowing what their boundaries are so they don’t run off or become a nuisance when out in exciting environments.

Start off and continue with positive reinforcement-based training rather than using fear-based techniques like leash jerks or scruff shakes as this helps avoid these problems from occurring!

Don’t make your dog work against his nature. In most training exercises, a layering-up approach is beneficial. Begin by gradually increasing changes like the distance between you and your dog during sits and stays. Start by keeping the distances short, avoid distractions, and offer strong praise for coming back to you.

Many gundogs love treats when working with their owner, which is why using these types of rewards during gundog training works well at keeping your dog focused on you. Once your gundog has mastered a command, you can begin phasing out food rewards and working on praise-only training methods if you wish.

Gundog training is a rewarding process, and gundogs are excellent working dogs in all situations. Gundog training is a lot like parenting: if you don’t want your gundog to engage in negative behaviours, you need to be sure they get plenty of positive attention. Positive reinforcements such as treats and praise for doing good things speed up both learning time and outcome success.

Gundog training is an important part of gundog life. If you want to train your gundogs efficiently, it’s vital that you stay consistent in terms of what they need and when they need it.

We hope these 5 things have helped you to improve your knowledge of gundog training and what you need to do.

Comment below which section has been the most helpful to you.

The Science Behind How to Correct Your Dog Constructively

When it comes to dog training, a lot of people are still under the impression that you have to be harsh with your dog in order to get them to listen. This could not be further from the truth! In fact, using harsh methods when training your dog can actually have negative consequences in the long run. In this podcast and blog post, we will discuss the science behind how to correct your dog constructively and without using force or fear. We will also provide some tips on how you can implement these methods into your own training routine.

Podcast Episode:

What is the science behind how to correct your dog constructively, without using force or fear?

The science behind dog training is based on the principle of operant conditioning. This means that dogs learn by associating certain behaviours with positive or negative consequences. Dogs are studied more now than they ever have been and we are learning more and more about how they think, feel, and learn. This gives us a leg up when it comes to training them effectively. Dogs want to please their owners, but they need to be taught how. A dog cannot read your mind, so you need to be clear, consistent, and patient when teaching them what you expect from them.

Science has shown that the most effective way to train a dog is through positive reinforcement. This means rewarding desired behaviours with treats, praise, or other forms of positive reinforcement. Dogs are motivated by what makes them feel good, so this is an effective way to encourage them to repeat desired behaviours. Conversely, punishment is not as effective in shaping behaviour, and can even have negative side effects such as fear and aggression. Therefore, it is important to use positive reinforcement when training dogs, in order to get the best results.

There are some basic principles of animal learning that can help you understand how you are currently training your dog. These principles include positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement, punishment, and extinction.

Basic Principles

First, let’s start with positive reinforcement. This is when you give your dog a treat or some other form of reward after they perform the desired behaviour. For example, if you want your dog to sit down, you would give them a treat after they sit. The key here is to make sure that the treat is given as soon as the behaviour is performed so that the dog associates the two.

Next is negative reinforcement. This is when you remove something unpleasant after the dog performs the desired behaviour. For example, if your dog doesn’t like being scolded, then you would stop scolding them after they perform the desired behaviour. The key here is also to be consistent so that the dog associates the desired behaviour with the removal of the unpleasant stimulus.

Punishment is when you do something unpleasant to your dog after they perform an undesired behaviour. For example, if your dog jumps on you, you could scold them or spray them with water. The key here is to make sure that the punishment is immediate so that the dog associates the undesired behaviour with the punishment.

Extinction is when you stop giving your dog a treat or reward after they perform the desired behaviour. For example, if you’ve been rewarding your dog for sitting down, but now you want them to sit without being rewarded, you would simply stop giving them the treat after they sit.

These are just a few of the basic principles of animal learning that can help you understand your current training choices.

Constructive Correction

One common misconception about gundog training is that it always involves punishment. While punishment can be effective (although unnecessary) in some cases, it is often more helpful to use positive reinforcement or correction.

Positive reinforcement rewards a dog for good behaviour, while negative reinforcement punishes a dog for bad behaviour. In contrast, constructive correction simply redirects a dog’s behaviour in a constructive way. For example, if a dog jumps on a person, the owner might say “off” and then provide him with a treat when he gets down. This type of correction is more likely to result in long-term changes in behaviour than punishment.

How can you implement constructive correction into your own training routine?

One way to implement constructive correction into your own training routine is to be clear and consistent with your commands. Make sure that you are always rewarding your dog for good behaviour, and use positive reinforcement whenever possible. If your dog exhibits undesirable behaviour, try to correct them in a constructive way, such as saying “off” if they jump up, and then providing a treat when they get down. With consistency and patience, you can successfully train your dog using constructive correction.

The podcast above includes over an hour of detailed information and guidance for you to use with your dog. Has this podcast helped you understand further how to correct constructively?

If you enjoyed this , you may also like Positive-Only V PunitiveTraining: What happened to the middle ground?

Gundog Behavior: Gun Shy or Gun Nervous?

There is a big difference between a gundog that is gun shy and one that is gun nervous. Gun shyness is usually the result of poor training, while gun nervousness is a genetic trait. If you are having trouble determining which category your gundog falls into, keep reading for more information.

A gun-shy dog is one that has been poorly trained and has had a bad experience with guns. This can happen if the dog was not properly introduced to guns, or if they were punished for being afraid of them. Gun shyness is not a genetic trait, and it is something that can be fixed with proper training.

A gun nervous dog is one that has a genetic trait that makes them afraid of guns. This is not something that can be fixed easily with training, and it is important to remember that these dogs should never be forced to work with guns. If you have a gun-nervous dog, the best thing you can do is maybe find another activity for them to enjoy.

Hopefully, this podcast and article have helped you better understand the difference between gun shyness and gun nervousness. If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us. Thanks for reading!

How To Happily Sort Out Mud Covered Gundogs

We all love our four-legged friends,  but come to the rain and mud of autumn and winter and even the most loved of dogs is kindly asked to not cuddle up with us when adorned with mud. We asked our Ladies Working Dog Group members for their top tips for dealing with mud-covered gundogs.

As they joyously bound through puddles and wallow in mud, we can’t help but squirm over the thought of how our cars and homes are going to cope…Having everything ready for your soggy companion’s return will make all the difference.

Washing Your Mud Covered Gundog Off

Dogs hate the feeling of mud after it has dried in their paws, in their nooks and crannies, or deep within their hair. It also leaves our homes coated as your dog sprinkles dirt-dust wherever they go.

It’s always a good idea to wash the mud off your dog before they get into their car or house for their comfort and your sanity. Coldwater can be used, but rinsing and bathing are much easier when the water is warm, plus your pet will thank you for giving them a warm rinse rather than an ice-cold spray with a hose.

You can install a hot water tap outside. This will make it easier for you and the dogs. We had ours installed last year for our mucky mud-loving spaniels, and it makes washing them down far more comfortable both for me and the dogs.

This idea was seconded by member Lucinda Sewell who had one installed too, Lucinda gives her dogs a complete shampoo outdoors after a day of mud-magnetising antics, followed by a thorough rub down with nice fresh and warm towels to dry them off preventing chills, but also to get rid of any potentially irritating remnants of shampoo or dirt. She mentioned, “my dogs are lifelong friends, so why treat them any different to how I would my children or us adults?”

If the idea of installing a hot water tap outdoors doesn’t quite sit with you or isn’t achievable where you live, there’s also the option of a portable hot water shower, such as the Mud Daddy® 5 Litre Portable Washing Device at £45.00. The Mud Daddy stays warm for up to two and half hours. Fill it up with water before you leave, put it in your car’s boot, and it will be warm when you are ready to use it.

LWDG member, Kate Kidner has a great tip too, “I have a trusty old portable pressure washer from Nomad, though I am unsure they make them anymore, the process is still the same and can be used for most portable washing systems. I fill it with hot water in the morning, and the water is still warm when I come to wash my dogs off. I then rub them down with a nice clean towel and wrap them up in one of their rugs. When we arrive home, the dogs are all clean, dry and happy.”

Another LWDG member, Demelza Barker added “I wrap a drying coat around my Mud Daddy (or other portable warm water showers) to insulate it, helping the water stay warm for so much longer, ” this is a great way to warm up your drying coat or dog rug, I think we can all testify to the comforts and happiness a warm, fresh pair of pyjamas brings.

If you are out and about, without access to warm water, then at the very least make sure to wash their paws off and the underneath of their bellies before you begin drying. Always keep a full water bottle in the boot of the car in the event of you being caught short. LWDG member, Fiona Macleod uses a very clever hack for this, “ we get our water-loving Spaniels into the pond at the end of a day’s shooting using tennis balls for bribery, then our Ruff ‘n Tumble coats are always used on the way home, making for two warm, toasty and completely shattered Spaniels.”

Towels At The Ready!

Wet dogs like to shake, and from personal experience, a soggy spaniel shaking off droplets of mud, sending them flying onto the cream interior of your Freelander is enough to make you want to cry. If you have absorbent towels on hand, you’ll be grateful.

A good drying robe or an ordinary, old bath towel from home can both be used to dry your dog effectively. Keeping a small kit bag in the back of your car containing all of the supplies needed to quickly and efficiently clean and dry your dog off is incredibly handy at all times of the year as they can be used after a beach day too.

If you’re travelling in a car, make sure to wring out towels so that the muddy water does not spread throughout your vehicle’s interior. Make sure you have a waterproof dry bag or similar to put the wet towels in and bring them into your house so they may be washed.

Drying Coats:

Dog drying coats come in many shapes, sizes, colours and even patterns, you’re almost spoilt for choice. From full-body styles that cover the major organs and muscles, to blanket style coats that simply help you dry your muddy dog off. When asked what drying coats the LWDG ladies recommended, lots of brands were mentioned though the drying coat brands which received the most recommendations and positive reviews from happy customers included Ruff ‘n Tumble, Equafleece, Lansdown, Siccaro and Hotterdog.

Because many breeds love to swim, having multiple coats allows you to dry one while your other pets are swimming. Drying coats may perform various tasks in addition to making your pets appear adorable as a button, therefore you might want to have more than one. Many members use a drying coat for the trip home in the car or after getting out of the shower to keep them warm and comfortable while they dried off.

Grooming

Once your dog is clean, it’s always a good idea to give them a complete grooming to check there aren’t any twigs, thorns, or irritating burrs caught in their coat. It’s also an opportunity for you to make sure they don’t have any minor injuries that you may not have noticed while they were covered with mud.

If you know your dog enjoys swimming, it’s also a great time to check their ears for any ear infections that can be caused by water trapped inside the ear canal. Look out for any signs of redness, irritation, or an unpleasant smell inside the ear.

If your dog is healthy and happy, there’s unlikely to be anything seriously wrong with him – but if you notice anything unusual once he is clean, or you have any concerns at all about his health always seek advice from your vet immediately.

We have a fantastic masterclass on grooming the working dog  by Featured Expert Julie Palmer

Avoiding the mud

 

Another option, for those who prefer to keep mud as far away as possible, is a waterproof dog rug. This is not to be confused with a drying coat. Brands like Weatherbeeta have developed a range of high-quality, breathable and waterproof dog coats which are ideal for donning pre-walk or mud exposure. These are also a great option for more sensitive breeds like whippets, lurchers or greyhounds during the colder months.

Be prepared for emergencies

First aid bag on a table

 

Returning to the topic of a kit bag for a moment, keeping an easily accessible bag in your car or even a convenient bag or box in the utility room is a fantastic idea that will help you prepare for any disaster.

A towel, some dog-friendly wet wipes, an antibacterial cream, bandage, scissors, tape, and surgical gloves are all things you’ll want to have on hand. Extra poop bags, another leash, a few of their favourite snacks, a flashlight and a folding washbowl are also recommended.

If your dog is on any specific medication, it is always wise to keep a small amount of this in the bag just in case of emergencies, and though you’ll likely have numbers stored on your phone, writing down your vet’s contact number or that of an emergency vet is advisable.

Of course, we don’t ever want any of these situations to surprise us, but being prepared will help you best deal with it, ensuring you can give the best possible care and attention to your canine companion.

Here’s to the next few months of battling with mucky, wet, and bitter weather. With your preferred jacket and boots on, going out to explore our lovely region with your special four-legged companion should not be deterred by any of the glorious mud you are going to get stuck in.

Ready? Let’s go!

How Gundogs Have Evolved From Hunting Companions to Multi-Purpose Pets

Gundogs have been around for centuries, and their purpose has always been to help hunters. Whether it was retrieving downed birds, tracking game through the forest, or holding point until the hunter could get to them, gundogs have always had a job to do. But over time, things have changed. Gundogs are now often kept as pets, and they can participate in a range of different activities beyond just hunting.

In this podcast and blog post, we talk to LWDG Featured Expert Michelle Oseman about the evolution of the multi-use dog. We take a look at how gundogs have evolved from simple hunting companions into multi-purpose pets that can be involved in a variety of hobbies and activities!

Agility

One of the most popular activities for gundogs these days is agility. This dog sport requires athleticism, speed, and precision as the dog navigates an obstacle course. Agility is a great way to burn off energy and keep the dog exercised, as well as provide a challenge that can keep the dog engaged and mentally stimulated.

Scentwork

Another popular activity for gundogs is scent work. This is a sport that utilizes the dog’s natural ability to sniff out things, and it can be done either competitively or just for fun.

In scent work, the dog is tasked with finding a specific scent and indicating its location to the handler. This can be done with any type of scents, such as food, drugs, or even human scent. Scent work is a great way to bond with your dog while also teaching them focus and concentration.

Mantrailling

Mantrailling is a term used when the dog is employed to search out and indicate the location of missing or wanted persons.

Mantrailling is a specific type of scent work where the dog is tasked with finding a human scent and indicating its location to the handler. This can be done for law enforcement purposes, or simply as a way to have fun with your gundog.

Canicross

And finally, canicross is a sport that has gained popularity in recent years. It involves dogs and humans running together, and it’s a great way to bond with your furry friend while getting some exercise!

So if you’re thinking about getting a gundog, don’t limit yourself to just hunting. There is a whole world of activities out there that you and your dog can enjoy together!

Have you ever tried any of these activities with your gundog? Let us know in the comments below! And be sure to check out our podcast for more great information on gundogs

The Working Dog Training Age Race

Gundogs are the best, especially as pups.  They are so cute and fluffy, and they love to play fetch. It’s so much fun to take them out on walks and watch them explore the world around them.

But as soon as these pups reach a certain age, their owners put unneeded pressure on themselves to train them quickly and get them ready for hunting season. This can lead to problems down the road, both for the pup and the owner.

In this podcast and blog post, we will discuss why it is important to take your time when training gundog pups, and how doing so will benefit both you and your pup/young dog in the long run!

Pressure On Dogs Owners

Pets are a big responsibility, and there’s a lot of pressure to do everything right by them. This is especially true when it comes to dogs, who we tend to think of as members of the family. We want them to be obedient and well-behaved, and we often put pressure on ourselves to train them quickly.

In contrast, we don’t usually feel the same pressure when it comes to training a horse. Horses are usually seen as taking far longer to train, and we tend to give ourselves more time to train them. This is because horses require a lot of physical conditioning and training before they can be used for work.

In contrast, dogs are generally much easier to train and don’t require as much time or effort. As a result, we often put more pressure on ourselves to train them quickly. However, it’s important to remember that both dogs and horses are intelligent creatures that deserve our patience and respect.

Training either one quickly is not always the best option. instead, focus on doing what’s best for your pet, and take the time to form a bond built on trust and mutual respect.

Comparing Dogs Training Using Their Age

In life, it’s easy to compare our journey with others. We compare our age, the car we drive, and how much money we make. It’s human nature. But when it comes to our gundog’s development, comparing our journey with others can be detrimental. Instead of comparing our dog’s journey with someone else’s dog, focus on their personal learning. Be proud of the steps you and they have taken and the obstacles you’ve overcome.

Gundog training is a process that should be savoured. It’s a time to build trust and respect between you and your dog. If you focus on the end goal, you’ll miss all the wonderful moments along the way.

Take your time, enjoy the journey, and be proud of every accomplishment, no matter how small.

The Working Dog Training Age Race

When it comes to gundog training, there is no finish line. You will never “win” the training race. This isn’t a competition where the first person to cross the finish line is the winner. In fact, if you focus on winning, you’re likely to lose.

Dog training should be done slowly and sensibly for a number of reasons. First, it is important to give your dog time to learn new commands and behaviours. Rushing through training can result in your dog becoming confused or overwhelmed.

Secondly, taking things slowly allows you to build a strong bond with your dog based on trust and communication. This bond is essential for successful training.

Finally, going slowly makes it more likely that your dog will actually enjoy the process and want to learn more. When training is done sensibly, it can be a fun and rewarding experience for both you and your furry friend.

So, the next time you’re tempted to race through your dog’s training, remember to take a step back and enjoy the journey. It’s not about winning or losing. It’s about spending quality time with your best friend and working together towards common goals.

Happy training!`;

Understanding Reactive, Fearful or Aggressive Dogs

Do you have a dog that seems to be reactive or fearful of other dogs, people, or objects? Or maybe your dog is aggressive and barks or growls at anyone who comes near him? It can be really tough trying to deal with a dog like this, but fortunately, there is help. In this podcast and blog post, we will discuss the different types of reactive dogs and how you can help them.

Podcast Episode:

What is a reactive dog and what causes them to act this way

A reactive dog is one that becomes overstimulated or anxious in new environments or around other dogs. This can be caused by a variety of factors, including lack of socialization, previous traumatic experiences, genetics, and even health conditions.

When a reactive dog is faced with a trigger, they may exhibit a variety of behavioural issues, including barking, lunging, and trying to escape. While it can be difficult to manage a reactive dog, there are a number of strategies that can help to reduce their stress levels and improve their behaviour.

With patience and perseverance, it is possible for even the most reactive dog to learn to cope in new situations and enjoy time with other dogs.

The different types of reactive dogs

Springer spaniel, border collie, Jack Russell terrier — when most people think of “reactive dogs,” these are the breeds that come to mind. And it’s true that these high-energy dogs are commonly reactive, but they’re far from the only ones. In fact, any dog can be reactive, regardless of breed, size, or age.

So what exactly is a reactive dog? Reactive dogs are those that over-react or react excessively to stimuli in their environment. While reactivity is not inherently bad — after all, it’s simply a natural response to stimuli — it can be problematic if it leads to negative behaviours.

A common type of reactive dog is one that is afraid of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks. These dogs may try to hide, pace back and forth, or whine and tremble. Some may even become aggressive in an attempt to protect themselves from the perceived threat.

Other types of reactive dogs include those that are afraid of unfamiliar people or animals and those that become overexcited when they see something they want, such as a squirrel or another dog.

While all reactive dogs share a common trait – an excessive reaction to stimuli – the underlying cause can vary significantly from one dog to the next. As a result, it is important to work with a qualified trainer or behaviourist to determine the best way to help your reactive dog.

How to help your reactive dog

Dogs are social creatures that crave companionship, but sometimes they can be a little too enthusiastic in their greetings. If your dog jumps on visitors or barks excessively when someone comes to the door, he may be considered reactive.

First, it’s important to understand what is triggering the reaction – is it other dogs, people, or car rides? Once you know the trigger, you can work on desensitizing your dog to it. This may mean starting with short car rides or walks in areas where there are few other people or animals.

Secondly, give your dog lots of positive reinforcement when he behaves well around people. This could include treats, praise, or even just some extra petting.

Finally, avoid punishment when your dog is reactive. This will only serve to increase his anxiety and could make the problem worse. With a little patience and effort, you can help your reactive dog learn to relax and enjoy the company of others.

Resources for further help

If your dog is reactive, you are not alone. Many dog owners struggle to find ways to help their dogs feel calm and relaxed in the presence of other dogs and people. Fortunately, there are a variety of resources available to help you work with your reactive dog.

Dog trainers with experience working with reactive dogs can teach you how to modify your dog’s behaviour using positive reinforcement techniques. In addition, there are online support groups where you can connect with other dog owners who are dealing with similar issues. With patience and perseverance, you can help your reactive dog learn to cope with his fears and enjoy a happy, healthy life.

Let’s Talk Food Allergies and Intolerances

Just like us humans, dogs too suffer from food allergies and intolerances. One of our lovely members, Charlene Tildsley from The Countryman’s Choice has kindly provided us with this blog all about how to identify the differences between an allergy or intolerance, and what we can do to help our dogs with their nutritional requirements.

Introduction

Owning a dog with food intolerances or allergies can be hard going, take it from someone who knows! My Labrador, Diesel, suffered from the day I brought him home. He was weaned on to a popular brand but due to my understanding of canine nutrition, I was able to rectify his issues quickly. He has since then been fine with a couple of hiccups along the way so I have decided to let you in on my knowledge in the hope it may help your dogs too.
In recent years we have seen a rise in sensitivity in dogs when it comes to food but do you know the difference between allergies and intolerances? Let’s dive right in and take a look…..

Allergies

A pet food allergy involves the immune system. This can be triggered by a dog’s response to a certain ingredient such as a protein source. For example, cells may release histamine which causes itching. Generally, food allergies cause skin-related issues in dogs such as inflammation, itching, hair loss and hot spots. There is the possibility they can develop ear infections that can become a
reoccurring theme once treatment has ended. A dog that has a food allergy will most likely always suffer from this. However, the severity of this can change over time.

Intolerances
A pet food intolerance does not involve the immune system and is caused when a food doesn’t agree with a dog’s body. This is simply a functional or mechanical issue with digesting a particular food. An example of this is a dog may be sensitive to wheat. Intolerances often mimic food allergies because the body can only demonstrate a problem in so many ways. Common ingredients that may cause intolerance include grains (i.e wheat and maize), eggs, soya or dairy.

You may notice a difference in your dog if they have an allergy/intolerance.

So, what can dog owners do?

If an owner believes that their pet is suffering from a food allergy or intolerance, there is a number of things they can do:

  • Feed their pet Grain Free or Hypoallergenic food as this helps to avoid common allergens and intolerances.
  •  Choose a diet with a single protein source such as meat or fish.
  • Follow an elimination diet (This works by removing a suspect ingredient for a minimum of 4 weeks from a dog’s diet and then reintroducing the ingredient and waiting for a return of any physical changes).
Grain-Free

Grain-Free recipes are ideal for dogs with sensitivity or intolerance to grains or gluten; a great alternative to rice or cereal-based recipes. Pet Food formulated without grains may help to alleviate common symptoms of grain sensitivity or intolerance.

The benefits of Grain Free diets can include:
• Less and smaller stools
• Reduce Shedding
• Improved Skin & Coat Condition
• Improved Breath Odour
• Reduced Wind
• Reduced Itching & Scratching
• Reduced Digestive Upsets

The Benefits of Sweet Potato

Sweet Potato can be a key ingredient in many Grain Free dog foods. So let’s look at the benefits of Sweet Potato and why is it added?

  • It’s Superfood! Packed with a wide range of vitamins and minerals and is naturally gluten-free.
  • Great for digestion as sweet potatoes are high in fibre which helps to promote a healthy digestive system and good stool formation. They are also soothing to the stomach so are great for more sensitive dogs.
  • They have a low glycemic index which means that they release glucose more slowly into the bloodstream, unlike other starchy foods which release this more quickly once consumed. This means blood sugar levels remain more constant and provide a steady release of energy throughout the day to the dog.
  • They are one of the best sources of Vitamin A which is an antioxidant powerhouse and is thought to have anti-ageing properties along with helping to maintain good eyesight and aid skin and coat condition.
  • Thought to have anti-inflammatory and immune-boosting properties as they are rich in beta-carotene, an antioxidant, along with other vitamins and minerals such as Vitamin C, Vitamin B complex, Iron, Phosphorus and Magnesium.

Sweet Potatoes offer a wide range of benefits to your dog.

It’s worth keeping this information in mind when searching for the right food for your dog. A lot of owners don’t even realise their dogs have allergies or intolerances due to the signs being so subtle in some dogs. With so much emphasis on our eating habits, maybe it’s time we looked at our dogs, more importantly, I believe working dogs should be the ones who are looked after as they help us more than the pet dog. The least we can do is to make sure they are fuelled correctly for those long days in the field!

To visit The Countryman’s Choice website, please click the button below:

Click Here Now

 

LWDG Society Members can benefit from 10% off The Countryman’s Choice dog food, please visit the Society Event calendar to get your code.

Coping With Kennel Cough

LWDG Group Expert Claire Denyer talks to us about what it’s like to have to cope with a dog with Kennel Cough in a multi-dog house.

Yesterday did not go as planned… I woke up yesterday morning to hear a hacking cough. When I went downstairs it was very apparent by the symptoms that poor Rose, my Labrador, has contracted Kennel Cough. Rose had a hacking cough and was bringing up bile and white foam. I recognised the symptoms from when my other Labrador Indy was poorly with Kennel Cough when she was a year old.

Kennel cough is a highly contagious infection. It commonly causes a persistent hacking cough. You should certainly speak to your vet for advice if you suspect your dog has a Kennel cough. For Rose, her cough sounded is in the video below:

The hacking cough sounds nasty, but Kennel Cough isn’t usually life-threatening. It can however be very serious to a young puppy, older dogs, and also to dogs with underlying health conditions. Our dogs are vaccinated against Kennel Cough, but unfortunately, the vaccine doesn’t protect against all strains of Kennel cough.

There’s an increase in cases of Kennel Cough at the moment so it’s good to be aware of symptoms and what to do if your dog does develop symptoms as it is highly contagious

Seeking Veterinary Advice With Kennel Cough

I called the vet and they wanted to examine her at the end of morning surgery (outside as it’s highly contagious). Unlike when Indy had Kennel cough, Rose ate her breakfast, although due to the persistent coughing it didn’t stay down. The vet examined Rose and prescribed antibiotics and rest.

Today her breakfast has stayed down. I’m keeping her hydrated, giving her honey, and goat’s milk, and she has a 10-day course of antibiotics prescribed by the vet.

The vet may carry out the following check as demonstrated by one of our Featured Experts. If the dog has kennel cough after the pressure is removed the dog will likely cough.

Disclaimers: if the dog doesn’t cough it is not 100% guaranteed that they do not have kennel cough. Please make sure if you attempt this you don’t press too hard and you know for certain that there is definitely no blockage in the dogs throat. Please seek medical advice from your vet

Multi Dog Households And Kennel Cough

The welfare of our dogs is the most important thing. At the moment Indy and Dude appear to be fine, but it can take a few days for symptoms to develop and if they have got it they are still contagious before symptoms appear.

Kennel cough symptoms can develop between a few days to a couple of weeks after being exposed. Some dogs can carry and pass on Kennel cough without having any symptoms themselves. There are a lot of cases of Kennel Cough at the moment, we have had quite a few clients cancel due to Kennel cough in recent weeks, and whilst we have taken as many precautions as we can, Rose has unfortunately contracted it.

Kennel Cough is contagious before symptoms occur and dogs with Kennel Cough or those living with dogs with Kennel Cough should be isolated for 10 days following symptoms.

It can be passed from dog to dog pretty easily, not only from droplets in the air but also from touching an infected dog. It can also be passed on from touching things that have been touched by an infected dog, this includes our clothes, toys, dummies,  food and water bowls, to name a few. We have been contacting clients due to see us over the coming days, and taking precautions, including changing clothes before seeing clients, and not using any dummies or equipment our dogs have touched.

We advise our clients not to bring a dog to class if they suspect they have Kennel Cough, or if they have been around a dog who has Kennel cough, just in case they are carrying it but not showing symptoms, and the same advice is important for anyone who is concerned their dog may have Kennel Cough or may have been in contact with a dog with it. Always seek advice from your Veterinary Surgeon.

Isolation Training You Can Carry Out At Home

There is a lot of training that you can carry out at home. The following video includes Heel, position transitions, steadiness, self-control, hold, delivery of retrieve, hand touch, settle etc.

You can do this with all dogs that are in isolation due to Kennel Cough but are not suspected of having or having Kennel Cough as these dogs need to rest.

Further information can also be found on the Kennel Clubs website about Kennel Cough

Further Info

How to Keep Pets Safe and Comfortable During the 2021 Firework Season

During the winter months in the UK, many people celebrate by going to fireworks displays. Fireworks are a fun and exciting way to spend time with friends and family, but they can also be a source of fear or anxiety for our pets.

In this blog post, and accompanying podcast episode, we will discuss how you can keep your pet safe and comfortable during firework season!

Keep your pet safe and comfortable.

Do not allow fireworks to become a source of fear for your pet. Keep them indoors during fireworks, and make sure you are with them so they don’t feel isolated or alone.

If fireworks are already a source of anxiety for your pet, consult with your vet about the best steps to take beforehand. There are calming products available and we have had members speak positively about Thundershirts. The shirt can help ease a dog’s anxiety, or there are medications you can use to help.

Know how to prevent or reduce the stress of fireworks on your dogs.

Playing white noise or calming music to help your dog feel more comfortable during fireworks season.

This weekend Classic FM’s popular pets programme returns, with soothing music to help keep your four-legged friends relaxed during fireworks season. On Bonfire Night, and the night after, they’ll be broadcasting two special programmes to help pets, and their owners, stay calm and relaxed.

Listen to Classic FM’s Pet Classics on Friday 5 and Saturday 6 November, from 6pm to 10pm. Classic FM is available across the UK on 100-102 FM, DAB digital radio and TV, on Global Player, on your smart speaker (“play Classic FM”), iOS or Android devise and at ClassicFM.com

Be aware of your dog’s body language as this will help you know how your dog is feeling: are they cowering, are their ears back, is there a lot of panting. If you see this body language means your dog is stressed and should be taken away from fireworks or loud noises.

Licking their lips and yawning are indicators of stress, as is toileting in the house, scratching at doors, hiding, trembling, and drooling

If you are unable to get away from fireworks, make sure your dog is in a place where it feels safe. A crate with a blanket over it and an open door is a great choice. Point the crate door away from the fireworks and allow the dog to go in and out as they wish

Distraction objects can also be helpful, a new toy or a bone can keep them occupied if their level of fear and stress is not too high.

Do not punish your pet if they become anxious during fireworks season as this will only serve to heighten their anxiety around the noises. This could cause them even more issues that you have to deal with later on down the line.

Be proactive instead of reactive with your dog around fireworks… and what to do when reactive is your only choice.

Mentally prepare your dog for fireworks by playing firework sound recordings or videos before the actual event.

If fireworks are going to be in your area, make sure you take your dog on a long walk during the day. Make them tired mentally and physically, so they will rest at night when fireworks can happen.

To Find out more about what you can do to help your dog this weekend, check out our special podcast episode Your Dog And Fireworks – Special Podcast

Which Training Dummy Is Right For My Dog?

There is a bewildering range of dummies on the market. They come in all shapes, sizes and colours. When buying a dummy it can be difficult to know where to start and which dummies are relevant to different stages of training.

Here’s a short guide to the types of dummies available and what they do provided by one of our members, Sue Lister, owner of Field and Fireside.

dog with duck shaped dummy

Photo by JM Photography

The ‘Traditional’ Canvas Dummy

The go-to dummy and still the most popular is the canvas dummy. These come in a variety of sizes from the tiny ‘snipe’ or disc up to a hefty 6lb+ hare/goose dummy. Usually made with a toggle for ease of throwing, they also come without a toggle for those dogs that like to carry the dummy by it, swinging it around madly or dragging it along the ground as they run back into you.

Canvas dummies also come in different shapes that can mimic the weight distribution of pheasants and other game to help teach the dog how to carry effectively.

dog with dummy
Plastic or Rubber Dummies
These are usually referred to as ‘water’ dummies. These types of dummies are light, easy to throw and float on water. They are also great in muddy terrain as they can be easily wiped clean. These are available in lots of different shapes and sizes.
Different Shapes and Textures

Dummies now come in many different shapes, from discs that roll when they land to bird-like dummies, with a flapping head & wings that help the dog to get a feel for carrying a real bird and discourage the dog from shaking their head as they run back. Some come with rabbit fur or with feathers which give the dog a sense of the ‘real thing’ and help them start to transition from dummies to cold game.

Different Colours

When you want to build up a dog’s confidence to retrieve, it’s sensible to use a dummy that is easy for them to see. While a dog isn’t colour blind, the colours they can distinguish are more limited than ours.

White or blue dummies are clearly visible against most backgrounds (obviously not snow, in the case of a white dummy!). These are ideal when you want the dog to be able to build up their confidence and find the dummy by sight. An orange, red or green dummy will make it more testing for them and will force them to use their nose more.

I’m A Beginner, What Should I Buy?

This is ultimately down to what you want to do with your dog and what stage of training you are at. If you’re starting out with a puppy, a snipe dummy or a dummy ball is easy for them to carry and can be used when they are older for hunting practice.

The KONG Fetch Stick is great for dogs who have been retrieving tennis balls as it has the same feel but with the shape of a traditional dummy. To get the dog used to carrying some weight, start with a ½ lb canvas dummy before you progress to the heavier 1lb dummy.

After that, the world is your oyster! Before you know it, you’ll have a collection of every shape, size and colour.

field and fireside logo

Sue Lister has her own gundog supply online shop where you can purchase the products listed above.

If you are just starting out with a puppy or you are a beginner, then Field & Fireside’s Complete Beginner Training Pack might be for you:

Beginner Pack

The pack costs £90, and includes:

  • Acme Whistle
  • Field and Fireside Lanyard
  • Ruff and Tumble slip lead
  • 10m training line
  • Heeling lead
  • Dummy/game bag
  • 2 x 1lb canvas dummies
  • Dummy ball
  • Rabbit ball
  • Ball on a rope

beginner/ puppy gundog training kit

The Training Kit and its content.

What Does A Gundog Trainer Do?

I love dogs, but I’m not a dog trainer. In fact, I have no formal training in any area of animal care or behaviour. As the Founder of The Ladies Working Dog Group, I spend a large percentage of time talking to both dog owners, and dog trainers. It’s a great job and it’s helped me learn so much about the important role gundog trainers play.

Let me teach you some things about what gundog trainers do,  and how you can use them to help you and your dog’s relationship flourish.

 

There is a lot to know and do as a pet parent, and there are many ways to help your dog be happy and healthy – from feeding them well to walking them often enough for their needs, to worming, and to knowing basic pet first aid, it’s a lot to take on.

And then there’s what we call “training”, which is teaching your dog how to behave appropriately in different situations so they’re happier as well as safer around others who might not appreciate their excitement!

On top of this general dog training, is the need for a gundog to understand far more when it comes to them carrying out a working role. So whether you want to learn more about this before you buy a gundog, or if you need some help with training a gundog breed, let’s discuss how a gundog trainer can help.

A gundog trainer helps you understand the basics of training a working dog

The basics of how to train a working dog can be tough, especially when the dog has forgotten he is meant to be listening to the owner and has decided to become self-employed instead!

A gundog trainer will get you started with training your new pup or help you with an older dog. Hiring someone who has experience in teaching a dog – like a trainer –  is going to help things go much smoother.

They also teach you how to interact with your pet gundog

Working dogs have a huge amount of energy physically, and a massive desire to be engaged mentally. Your trainer will teach you basic commands so that you can control these areas like sit, stay and come. They will also teach you how to focus your dog and how to meet their needs in a relationship-building way.

As your skills develop, your trainer will encourage you to take on more technical cues and they will help you to have lots of fun whilst you learn.

Your trainer will help you set up an appropriate schedule for your pup’s training that fits into your lifestyle.

Dog training requires you to be consistent. That can sometimes be tricky around family life, but your gundog trainer will help teach you how to do this. They help you understand how each dog differs and what kind can best suit your needs for that particular breed or type. Gundog trainers will teach you how to help a gundog breed happy live in a family home, while still being able to go out and do a working day on an estate.

Your trainer will work with both dogs and humans to make sure everyone is on the same page.

He or she can help you be more aware of your dog’s behaviour, as well as how they interact within a group setting so that you can train your dog to behave appropriately in a range of different settings and situations. They will teach you what you need to do to facilitate this as well.

Trainers are more than just teachers – they’re mentors too!

I am a trainer, not of dogs, but of people. I have been training people in mindset coaching for over ten years now. Here’s what you need to know about being any kind of trainer…

Trainers aren’t only focused on teaching skills; these professionals also provide practical advice from personal experiences with difficult topics such as anger management with your dog, through to ways to teach both you and your dog to switch off,  because we understand how hard training can be sometimes, especially when there isn’t enough space left inside ourselves anymore to go forward alone.

Your gundog trainer will teach you about how to be a better-behaved handler, and how not to be too hard on yourself. You’ll also learn about canine behaviour well as other skills such as grooming, nutrition, and health care during these sessions.

A gundog trainer is responsible for the training of a hunting dog.

Gundog Trainers work with you to teach your dog what behaviours are appropriate in different situations, often showing patience when it’s necessary, and understanding that each dog learns these skills slowly through repetition over time so they can remember them later on.

You may never intend on actually working your gundog, but it is important to still use the skills as it helps keep your dogs mentally stimulated and happy.

They teach the dogs how to hunt and retrieve games, and will teach you how to work your dog in the field if that is something you want to do.

Hunting dogs have been trained since ancient times to find the game and track it down with their noses until they could bring home an animal’s carcass.  The first step in moving on from a pet gundog used to training with dummies onto a working dog is to teach them what kind of game will be hunting or retrieving.

Working with a cold or warm game isn’t for everyone, and you can still train a remarkable gundog without it ever needing to touch a dead animal. However, if you want to go onto an estate a gundog trainer can help you to teach your dog to do this successfully.

They do so much more…

The LWDG Group and Featured Gundog Training Experts do so much to help all our group members. They check our pages daily, posting comments to help where they can, and producing our masterclasses, podcasts, and videos. They not only look after their own clients, but they help all of the community learn and grow. They do all the above and so much more! The best trainers not only care about their customers but also about the way gundogs are perceived by everyone.

We hope reading this post you’ve taken a few moments to think about what your dog training needs might be and how Gundog trainers can help. They will provide the knowledge and support that their many years of experience have given them and will also bring you the tools needed to train your dogs in order for you to succeed.

If any of this sounds like it could be helpful for you you can ask in our group for names of recommended trainers in your area. If there is anything else we can do to help you train your gundog please let us know!

Let us know if you have worked with a gundog trainer and how it helped you?

The Pinewood Training Vest

Happy Hotdogs recently sent 6 ladies from The Ladies Working Dog Group their Light Pinewood Training Vest for us to put them through their paces and see if they are worth the money and genuinely good for training. After being tested in the field, it turns out we think they’re pretty awesome.

Review Written By Jemma Martin, from Whistle and Wag Dog Training

 

Earlier this year I was lucky enough to be asked to review the Pinewood light Pro training vest by Happy Hotdogs in conjunction with The Ladies Working Dog Group.

I have tried numerous training vests in the past for my gundog training and they are always too bulky or make me too hot or don’t have adequate space.

That is until I tried the Pinewood ‘New’ Light pro training vest!

Pockets galore in the Pinewood!

The first thing that needs to be noted is that this vest has no lack of pockets!

There is a spacious rear pocket that easily fits all the dummies I need for training and some tennis balls. I usually carry around 6 dummies but it would take more. The rear pocket has magnets that lightly close the pocket shut which helps to keep your dummies in place. This is a fabulous idea as I have had other similar size vests previously that dummies regularly fall out of which is a real pain.

As well as the large rear pocket, there are two dummy-sized elasticated pockets which would accommodate a further two dummies or water bottles for you and your dog.

Moving to the front there are two decent-sized outer pockets, great for treats or balls, or whatever you fancy really. The flaps of these also have magnets that keep them tucked in if required to allow easy access to the pocket.

There is a high zipped front pocket on the left chest which easily took my phone and kept it safe.

This is accompanied by two chest pockets that seal with a popper, which again would take a phone or keys or anything else small you may need to keep to hand.

The last thing on the front is the little elasticated whistle pocket, great to slide your whistle in when not in use so you do not have any ‘dipping’ accidents when clearing up after your dog. (I’ve been there, it’s not pleasant trust me)

 

You are probably thinking wow that’s a lot of pockets, but it doesn’t stop there! there are further two decent-sized zipped pockets inside. One has the rather special feature of a small opening that allows you to dispense poo bags from! Ingenious! It works fabulously with the rolls of poo bags you can purchase from most pet stores. The pocket the other side is a plain zipped pocket, but again great for anything you need to keep secure. Maybe a snack pocket with energy bars for you and your dog? Who knows, but whatever you want to take with you it will fit in this awesome vest!

Other features of the Pinewood

So apart from the more than ample pocket space what else can I say?

One feature I really like is it is made of hardwearing but super lightweight material, with a mesh section across the back and under the arms. This kept me cool even on warmer days where in my old vests I would have been seriously overheating.

MORE pockets! I forgot to mention 4 more pockets, yes 4! I wouldn’t suggest that these are pockets to keep things in but more for warming your hands. There are two high on your chest and two lower behind the front larger pockets. These are a great place to pop your hands when walking or training. I have a tendency to overuse my hands when training so they are great for me to pop my hands away as a conscious thing to get rid of them. Equally on a cooler Autumn day, it would be great to pop a couple of hand warmers in to warm your hands.

The front of the vest also has a small loop next to the left zipped chest pocket, this is great to attach a whistle on a cord to. This ensures you always have a whistle to hand with your vest and no panic that you have forgotten it.

Colours

Finally, this vest is available in 4 different colours.

Moss, Plum, Brown/Olive, Black

I opted for the brown/olive as wanted a colour I could wear when out working the dogs, but the other colours are great.

In Summary

I’m not sure I have anything negative to say about this vest! It’s lightweight, has tonnes of pockets, nifty little features like the poo bag dispenser and magnets and has a flattering shape.

They are currently £85 from Happy Hotdogs which offers excellent customer service with quick delivery. Go get yours today! Check out our other post for a fab discount offer, and Society Members can check out the Member Calendar ( July 1st) for an even bigger offer!

What do our other reviewers think:

Emma Stevens – Cunningshot Dog Training

The pinewood vest for me is fantastic, smart and useful. The sizing was spot on and I have used it for a multitude of reasons. Can’t wait to use it in the shooting season as well.

Emma Stevens in her Pinewood Vest

Charlotte Perrott- Pet Business Support

 

This vest has SOOO many pockets! It is absolutely perfect for everyone, however, I find it useful with my puppy. As we all know, puppies’ attention spans are a little (a lot!) shorter than adult dogs, so this vest allows me to have a variety of training equipment out with me to keep training interesting, instead of having to go back and forth to the car. I love the purple colour, it is a little more feminine than a normal vest as it fits to your shape. The vest is a great material, I seriously appreciated the little ventilation holes during the summer. The back pocket is huge- it can even fit a cavapoo!

The vest is very well put together, it allows a coat or similar underneath it during these winter months, there isn’t much that this vest can’t do.

Joanne Perrott- The Ladies Working Dog Group

I absolutely ADORE my Pinewood Vest- from the endless pocket to the secret poo bag compartment, it ticks all the boxes for training, and even just going for a walk with the dogs. When I first had the vest, I looked at it as though it was another piece of equipment I would rotate through, but it is a staple within my daily life.

I like the fact the pockets are big too, not just flimsy little ones that won’t fit a tennis ball. The phone compartment is very handy, and as Jemma mentioned- I love the little whistle pocket! I would describe it as an all-rounder, and even though it is a ‘light’ training vest, it is very useful for the winter season too.

Claire Denyer – Family Dog Services

I love the pinewood vest. It is practical, with many pockets and a spacious dummy holder, stylish, well-fitting, smart and comfortable. I have worn it to walk my dogs, train my dogs, and even when doing my KC working gundog certificate assessment with my youngest dog.

Samantha Thorneycroft- Taylor – Languedoc Gundogs

After eagerly awaiting the arrival of my Pinewood Training Vest, I was super excited to put it through its paces! It certainly did not disappoint with multiple front pockets, a spacious dummy compartment, and magnetic closures to decrease/increase the dummy compartment size, and it looks and feels great too.

Its sizing is spot on and it has a very smart appearance. The Pinewood Vest very quickly became my go-to equipment carrier especially as the weather improved and the mesh back allowed airflow whilst training in warmer weather.

I have used the vest for full days training multiple dogs/clients, and for more relaxed dog walks too – it’s been great for every use I’ve given it so far!

So there you have it, 6 different dog handlers, 6 very positive reviews for the training vest.

If you would like to get yours, please click the button below. If you have already purchased one, please feel free to leave your review in the comments! 

LWDG POD DOG – NEW PODCAST!

I LOVE listening to podcasts every chance I get: walking the dog, exercising, driving, showering…You get the idea!

So when a Group Expert, Emma Stevens, suggested we do a public podcast for everyone, it made me jump up and down with excitement! What could be better than offering a new way of learning that they could enjoy?

The LWDG already has a private Podcast for its members. We upload all of our live coaching sessions as both a video recording and a podcast for them to enjoy.

But we have never before created a dedicated place for anyone to listen to the amazing coaching of our Group and Featured Experts.

And so The LWDG POD DOG was born! A public podcast dedicated to all things working dog.

We wanted anyone to access, so it’s available here, on Apple Podcasts and on Spotify for you to listen to weekly.

Robert Alleyne

Rob Alleyne is an incredibly well-respected dog behavioural trainer, and last year he did a fantastic coaching call for our members. So good, we decided we would kick off LWDG POD DOG by releasing this incredible 57-minute coaching call!

This episode covers:

– How Rob became a dog trainer.
– Robs tv career training dogs.
– Dominance v Fear-based behaviours.
– Pup resentment in multi-dog homes
– Resource Guarding
– Socialising Dogs
– Aggression
– Fixing Recall
– Barking

More About Rob

Robert is a signatory to the Registration Council for Dog Training and Behaviour Practitioners (RCDTBP), and he has lectured on canine behaviour on many occasions for different groups and organisations, both nationally and internationally.

He is a Member of the Kennel Club and is a patron of the charity K9 Crusaders. He is a keen campaigner trying to make a difference for dogs in relation to their care and welfare, is firmly against breed-specific legislation, and has attended several of the London protests against it.

He has talked on many radio programmes on the subject of dogs. He’s also appeared on numerous television programmes talking about dogs and other animals. He was the behavioural trainer on the hugely successful BBC3 show Dog Borstal for all four series. He has also appeared on BBC News, This Morning, Good Morning Britain and London Tonight, covering a variety of dog-related subjects. He has written articles for most of the major national dog-related magazines, such as Our dogs, Dogs Today, and Your Dog.

Robert has acted as an expert witness in court cases, both as a canine behavioural/trainer and as an animal welfare officer for the London Borough of Lewisham.

After acquiring a puppy from Battersea Dogs & Cats Home in 1981, he began attending dog training classes with him and soon started working at competitive level obedience with both him and his next dog. He has run his own dog training classes since 1986. By 1994 he had won his way up to and including class ‘B’ before work commitments forced him to retire from competing. He has judged at limit, open, and championship level obedience competitions since 1986. He has been training people in instructing dog training classes since 1995.

Having spent some years studying the subject, Robert started working as a canine behavioural trainer in 1992, with most of his clients coming to him via veterinary referral or recommendations from previous clients. He has published a book on dog behaviour and training, The Trouble-Free Dog, published in 2000, and had very positive reviews in The Times, The Telegraph, The Daily Mail and Dog Training Weekly and has been reprinted twice since then. It was revised and reprinted in 2008. He is currently writing his second book. He has also produced several booklets and pamphlets for Lewisham Council on dogs, which are distributed free to the public.

In May 1990, he began working as an animal welfare officer for the London Borough of Lewisham and continued there until January 2007, when he held the position of Senior Animal Welfare Officer. Dealing with all types of animals, ranging from escaped reptiles to injured wildlife to nuisance complaints and of course – stray dogs, which was the service’s core function. This aspect of the job was obviously potentially very dangerous, so an ability to immediately assess a dog’s attitude was essential since stray or abandoned dogs could potentially turn aggressive. He left the service in 2006 to work full-time as a behavioural trainer.

The Welsh Springer Spaniel

It’s June and that means it’s time for our second blog post in our Vulnerable Breed Series! This month’s vulnerable breed is The Welsh Springer Spaniel. This blog has been kindly written for us by Jane Sutherland from the Welsh Springer Spaniel Club of South Wales, and the images used throughout have been kindly sent to us by Jane too.

To refresh your mind on what breeds are currently on the Native Vulnerable Breed list, please click here.

Background and Characteristics
The Welsh Springer is a very ancient breed that can trace its ancestry back to the 10th Century. It was widespread across the UK until the beginning of the last century and was often known as a Starter or Springing Spaniel. With the advent of the English Springer and then subsequently the Cocker Spaniel, the breed declined in popularity but held on in Wales and amongst enthusiasts of the breed, with its reputation as a tenacious game finder in hardcover and tough conditions.

The Welsh Springer is a medium-sized spaniel, smaller than the English Springer, symmetrical and compact, not leggy, strong and muscular. However, still quick and active and with a merry disposition. They are always a rich red and white in colour, with no exceptions, standing between 18 and 19 inches to the wither. The Welsh Springer Spaniel possesses superb scenting and game finding abilities as well as real versatility, happily adapting to any role in the field. From beating, picking up, duck flighting, sitting in a hide decoying pigeons to following a blood trail shooting deer, they are great working dogs. A very loyal and sociable spaniel, they love family life as well as  the working life so fit happily into your life and onto your sofa!

Welsh Springer Spaniel
Working A Welsh Springer

I have had and worked with Welsh Springers for over 25 years and am currently the Working and  Field Trial Secretary for the Welsh Springer Spaniel Club of South Wales. It would be wrong of me to suggest that they are easier or harder to train than any other spaniel. Like all breeds, it requires patience and consideration to get the best out of your Welsh. The Welsh Springer can be both stubborn and opinionated but once trained these characteristics to become a genuine asset, resulting in a shooting companion who is intelligent, determined and a remorseless hunter.

They are capable of going all day! We frequently arrive before the shooting day starts to push in the boundaries and arrive back at the Shoot Hut as everyone is leaving, having been asked to do a final sweep of the last drives to collect any missed birds. The breed is different in style from the other, more popular spaniel breeds. They are slightly steadier of pace which allows them to maintain the same energy and drive all day, they have outstanding noses, however, and very rarely miss birds, often finding blinked birds down rabbit holes or lost retrieves hung up in clematis or vines many feet above their heads.

Like everyone who works a vulnerable breed, we are inevitably the only representatives on a shoot, a double-edged sword because it makes your mistakes as noticeable as your successes! But it’s always a source of huge pride when the “is that a cocker then?” spaniel puts in a good day’s work and manages some eye-catching retrieves and flushes.

The Breed’s Versatility and The Welsh Springer Spaniel Clubs

I both work and compete my Welsh, attending Working Tests and Field Trials. We beat and pick up on local shoots and rough shoot over our team of Welsh. They also show and I  currently have the only one living Champion in the breed.

There are a dedicated group of people striving to maintain the dual purpose of the Welsh Springer, these happy adaptable dogs are able to segue effortlessly from Show Ring to Shooting Field to Family life and much more.

The breed is always represented at the Game Fair and I would encourage anyone who is interested in Welsh Springers to come along and meet us. There are four Breed Clubs nationally, and we are working hard to preserve this lovely gundog and to support research into the health of the breed.

To find out more about the Welsh Springer Spaniel, click the button below to view the Breed Profile on the Kennel Club’s website:

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To read the previous blog of this series, click the button below:

The Sussex Spaniel

Let’s Talk Dachshund

You may be wondering why we have a blog on them, I mean, they’re just a handbag dog aren’t they? Actually, these little wonders are amazing working dogs. Dawn Seago, from K9 Lifestyles, did a Zoom call with us about her experience with The Dachsund- and has very kindly written this blog for us.

The History

The name Dachshund means “Badger Dog” in German translation, Dachs meaning Badger, Hund as a dog. Some say that the Dachshund originated from the Basset Hound during the French revolution, but Dachshunds were already in Germany at this time. Queen Victoria had a Dachshund called “Dash” bought for her by Prince Albert, they were thought to be in England before this though.

Dawn

Dawn Seago and Diesel

About The Breed

There are 6 varieties and three coat types recognised in the UK: mini smooth; mini long; mini wire; standard smooth; standard long; standard wire. No matter what the coat or the size, it is a Dachshund. Sometimes referred to as a “Teckel”, it is still a Dachshund, most commonly people call the wire-haired type Teckels.

They are clever, stubborn, lively, independent and very courageous, to the point of rashness. They are not a small little handbag dog, which is what they seem to be at present.  They will dig their way out of a garden if bored or restless, forget your nice flowers as they will have them destroyed if left to their own devices, I have lost a few flowers. They have immense power in forequarters and forelegs, when viewed from the front the thorax should be full and oval-shaped, this allows good capacity for the heart and lungs. The feet should be bigger on the front legs than the back legs to allow for digging. There is of course lots more to the Breed standard, so it’s advisable to research this.

Dawn’s Dachshunds

As A Working Dog

The Dachshund does not fare well being left alone all day, as boredom and destruction will happen. Like many dogs, they do not arrive in your home fully trained. They are highly intelligent and will manipulate humans quite easily, they are a Hound with a brain. Some breeders will say Wires are extroverts, Longs are laid back, Smooths are said to be the “one person dog”.  In training with your Dachshund- be consistent with it, they will be stubborn, and if they find a weakness? “Boom”, they own you. As they grow, find a job for them to do, all kinds of nose work are the best thing for a Dachshund. They were bred to hunt, harness that power and get them working. They love to track/trail, there are lots of scent work clubs to join. I have one who Tracks for wounded deer with BMH of GB, we train once a month. As a Mantrailing UK Instructor, they Mantrail too, (not looking for a man).  I even have a Dachshund who does Parkour and Hoopers. All of these activities are low impact sports so they are suitable for a Dachshund.  Talking of backs- yes, some do have issues with IVDD, just be watchful of things like too much jumping or stairs, keeping the Dachshund fit helps. There is lots of information on The Dachshund Breed Council Website.

Thinking Of Owning One?

Before buying a Dachshund, visit some conformation shows and talk to breeders. Find out the breed’s health status and ask questions. If you have made your mind up to welcome a Dachshund in your home, then talk to several different breeders- not just one. Choose your breeder wisely, and make friends long before you get your puppy, good breeders do not always have puppies on sale. I also show my Dachshunds to Championship level, and welcome people to chat to me about working their Dachshunds too.

Remember these little dogs love to work, they will surprise you with their tenacity to do a job.

To find out more about Dawn, you can visit her Facebook page by clicking the button below:

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Fancy Something Different For Dinner?

We get it- thinking about what to have for dinner all the time is hard. We thought we would help you with a fantastic recipe from BRITISH GAME ASSURANCE– so, Fancy Something Different For Dinner?

Partridge Winter Salad With Salsa Verde

A warm salad, celebrating wonderful seasonal winter vegetables, accompanied with the addition of tangy satsuma.  Leeks make a great warm salad and using the stem of the leek in the salad, and the leaves in the salsa verde mean every part of the leek is used.

Salad Ingredients
  • 2 partridges
  • 1 leek stem
  • 30g (approx. 1/2 cup) watercress
  • 1 satsuma
  • Rapeseed oil
Salsa Verde Ingredients
  • 2 tbsp leek leaves, diced finely
  • Oil
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 1 bunch of fresh basil leaves
  • 1 handful of fresh mint leaves
  • 1 tbsp capers
  • 1 tbsp gherkin, diced finely
  • 6 anchovy fillets
  • 1/2 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Method

Salsa Verde

  • Finely dice the leek leaves (like the size of finely chopped chives), and gently fry over a medium heat in a little oil for 1 minute.
  • Crush the garlic cloves, and make it into a paste.
  • Finely chop the basil, mint, capers, gherkins and anchovy and combine in a bowl, and mix well.
  • Add the cooked leek leaves and stir through to combine.
  • Add the mustard and vinegar, then slowly add the oil until you achieve a nice consistency.  You may want to add more or less oil.
  • Taste, and add some black pepper, or a little bit of sea salt to adjust the balance of flavour, if you wish

Partridge

  • Preheat the oven to 180 C.
  • Heat a non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat and add a drizzle of oil. Season the partridges all over with salt and pepper, place in the heated pan, and cook gently over the heat for 3–4 minutes, until they start to become slightly golden in colour. Turn the partridges if necessary.
  • Transfer the partridges to a roasting tray, and roast in the oven for 8–10 minutes until the partridges are just cooked, but slightly pink inside.  (Whilst the partridges are roasting, cook the leeks per step 12 and assemble the salad)
  • Transfer the partridges to a warm plate and leave to rest for 5 minutes.  Cut the breasts from the partridges, and slice them into thin slices.

Salad

  • Slice the leek stem into thin circles.
  • Heat some oil in a frying pan and gently fry the leeks for 2 minutes over a medium heat.
  • Transfer to your serving plates
  • Pick the watercress leaves from their stems, and add the watercress to the leeks
  • Slice segments of satsuma, removing as much of the white pith as possible
  • Top the leek and watercress with slices of partridge breast, and sliced satsuma.  Drizzle the salsa verde over the salad, and serve.

And there you have it, tonight’s dinner plan is sorted! If you would like to view more fantastic recipes by our friends at the British Game Assurance, click the button below:

VISIT THE BRITISH GAME ASSURANCE WEBSITE

How To Work With A Cheeky Dog

claire denyer featured expert ladies working dog group

Guest Blog Post by LWDG Group Expert Claire Denyer

Do you find your gundog can be a bit “cheeky’ from time to time? That they know what they’re supposed to do but do the total opposite? One of our fantastic featured experts, Claire Denyer, has provided us with this amazing blog all about her training experiences, common mistakes and how to handle the cheeky gundog!

 

This is the face of a very beautiful and cheeky young gundog who knows she was very cheeky during training this morning. Training your dog won’t always go perfectly, it won’t always go as you thought it would. That’s normal and it is the reality.

What should I do when things go wrong?

I’m often asked what I do when things go wrong. The honest answer is that it totally depends on the dog I am working with, what has gone wrong, why it has gone wrong, the environment, and the situation.

I hope the following helps you think about what you should do when things go wrong…

Training

When we are training the dog, we are educating the dog. We may use luring, shaping, repetition, and consistency, to aid successful training. We encourage the dog to make good choices, and the gundog is rewarded for those choices. Behaviours which are rewarded are more likely to be repeated.

Duration, Distance and Distractions

Look at the duration, distance, and the distractions, and ask yourself if you have prepared your gundog enough, have you prepared them for each element, if not then go back a step in your training and build duration, distance, and distractions, in that order.

Proofing the training 

Ensure you proof the training in a variety of environments and under varying conditions.

Constructive Correction

However, if the dog understands what is required, but chooses not to comply, we use constructive and appropriate (not harsh or abusive) corrections to encourage the dog to make the right and rewarding choices in the future.  Correcting a dog does not mean being cruel. We do not advocate harsh handling. It’s not necessary or nice.

LWDG Group Expert,  Trainer  Claire Denyer

Common Mistakes

I thought I’d go through some of the more common mistakes we commonly see handlers make when correcting their dogs in gundog training:Many handlers use a ‘stern telling off voice’ but they raise their voice, some almost shouting, and the dog becomes numb to it, so often becomes ineffective, or in some cases, is always required because the gundog no longer listens to a normal speaking voice.

If done correctly, a verbal (non-shouty) verbal correction can work, however, you must also put the training in to teach the behaviours you want more of, and reward those behaviours.

Many trainers recommend ‘getting after your dog’ if they ignore the stop whistle or recall. Now, I will go out to my dog if she is ignoring me, but in most situations, I personally find running after dogs ineffective (unless you are trying to cut across their path to stop them from swapping dummies or similar). Some gundogs think you are joining in, some think you are playing chase and it becomes a game, some gundogs are very sensitive, and then it can create other issues. To be perfectly honest, I’m not sure I know many owners who could physically ‘get after their dog’ successfully anyway.

So unless it’s very effective for you and your gundog personally (or required in very specific situations) I would suggest you just go get your dog and walk them back on lead (do not give another command) to roughly where they ignored the stop whistle (I call this the walk of shame!) and sit them up, pip the stop whistle and resume where you left off. If they ignored the recall whistle then go get them, pop the lead on, and walk them back in silence, then do a successful mini recall to ensure you and your dog are on the same page.

If a gundog is repeatedly breaking a stay, don’t just correct the gundog, or get frustrated, look at the behaviour your dog is displaying in that situation. If your dog is creeping towards you it is very likely they lack confidence, or you have increased the difficulty of the exercise too quickly, so getting frustrated won’t help, and may even make the problem worse. A dog getting up and buggering off however is a different matter.

So, how did I handle Rose’s misdemeanours this morning?

Well, when she thought she knew best on a blind retrieve and ignored my line, going in the direction instead of where she had picked a retrieve previously, I called her back and reset her, giving her a chance to follow the line a second time. However, although she started well, she did again deviate from the line, so I called her back and walked her closer in the hope she would take the line and wind the retrieve. However, Rose clearly in a headstrong mood still didn’t follow the line. This time I walked her to heel towards the retrieve until I was sure she would wind it, I then turned and walked her to heel away from the retrieve, before turning and re-sending her, this time she took the line and was successful. The important lesson was that she didn’t find the retrieve when ignoring me. She found it through working with me.

We then resumed training but I was mindful to keep blinds short and successful.

Then two lovely retrieves later Rose tried to play keep-away with the retrieve, I mean, the last time she even considered such a cheeky move was such a long time ago I can’t remember. She was literally bouncing about playfully. Not a behaviour I expected nor want to encourage so I gave her my best-disgusted look, turned on my heel and started walking away. Rose followed me and gave me the retrieve immediately.

So, on that note, we decided to stop the session. No hard feelings. Never hold a grudge. Never get angry (even if inside you are fuming)

I never continue training if I feel frustrated or upset by something. It’s not worth it. We are only human. Better to stop and do something positive and leave your session with your dog still as your best mate.

Remember, gundogs make mistakes just like we do.

Further Info:

If you would like to purchase Claire’s book, The Life of Rose: Raising a Puppy the Family Dog Services Way, you can do so by clicking the link to our LWDG Amazon Store.

Find lots of gundog training books recommended by the LWDG community To view previous LWDG resources with Claire Denyer, please click here:

LWDG PODDOG is a podcast all about working with dogs. if you would like to listen then please click the button below:

Vulnerable Breeds Series: The Pointer

Welcome back to our Vulnerable Breeds Series! This month’s blog is on The Pointer. For those who are new to the series, this is all about raising awareness for vulnerable breeds here in the UK, starting with the native breeds. Following The Kennel Club’s Vulnerable Native Breed List, we are speaking to breed-specific clubs from across the UK to find out about the breed and what the club does to promote it. A huge thank you to The Pointer Club and their Honorary Field Trial Secretary, Carole Brown for giving us the context for this blog.

pointer pointing

About The Pointer

The supreme scenting machine, the Pointer is a wonderful example of a breed fit for its original function. The Pointer gallops on large expanses of land to detect the scent of the game and then freezes in a “point” in the direction of the sitting game.
The Pointer is an athlete, considered the thoroughbred of the gundogs. His hunting style is with head held high, galloping with style and pace, lashing his bee-sting tail. It is no wonder that the Pointer was much in demand by the gentry of the 18th and 19th centuries with large kennels of 200-300 dogs, as they were considered the most stylish of gundogs.

 

The Pointer is an active, intelligent dog who needs daily exercise and stimulation. They were bred to be hunting dogs who could work all day long so they must have at least an hour of exercise a day. When they are given the exercise and training they need, they are quiet and mannerly house dogs.

pointer dog

Kennel Club Breed Standard (Snippets)

General Appearance- Symmetrical and well built all over, general outline a series of graceful curves. A strong but lissom appearance.

Characteristics- Aristocratic. Alert with the appearance of strength, endurance and speed.

Temperament- Kind, even disposition.

Body- Well sprung ribs carried well back gradually falling away at strong muscular and slightly arched loins. Short coupled. Haunch bones are well spaced and prominent, not above the level of the back.

Colour- Usual colours are lemon and white, orange and white, liver and white, and black and white. Self-colours and tricolours are also correct.

About The Pointer Club

 The club’s goal is to maintain and promote the breed as a ‘fit for function’, that is also suitable as a family member. The Pointer Club provides breed-specific input into the KC on our Breed Standard. The club is responsible to the KC as custodians of the Pointer breed standard and work with and advises the KC on all matters regarding breed health guidelines and manages a number of KC-related activities such as maintaining breeder code of conduct policies, running judge education seminars and managing judge accreditations.

The Pointer Club organises a number of events each year ranging from Shows (Championship & Open) and Field Trials. We also provide help and advice to members on training, owning, showing and working Pointers.

The Pointer Club has the declared objective of promoting the interests of the breed, uniting those interested in the breed and upholding the Standard of the Pointer

Working Pointers

The Club runs seven Field Trials each year in accordance with Kennel Club Rules & Regulations.

The aim of each trial is to run it as close as possible to a day’s shooting. The dogs are required to systemically quarter the ground with pace and style, showing natural hunting ability. They should point gamebirds and when asked, work out the point freely and drop to flush and shot.

In addition to the field trials, the club also holds up to three training days for Pointers and Setters per year. The aim of these days is to help educate & encourage newcomers to our sport. They are designed to help owners and their dogs to gain an insight into the background and basic training of a working Pointer or Setter and also understand more about the quarry and management of the ground that we work on. From attending these days, some participants are able to progress to a standard capable of competing in field trials.

To learn more about The Pointer Club, click the button below:

The Pointer Club

 

To view our last Vulnerable Breed blog on the Irish Water Spaniel, click the button below:

Irish Water Spaniel Blog

LWDG Collab With On The Peg

They’re finally here! LWDG have collaborated with On The Peg to bring you exclusive Lady Harris Shooting Socks and Wrist Warmers!

 

Both items are available in two colours- Bilberry (above) and Dark Olive (seen in the blog cover photo).

Merino wool ladies’ country socks. Lady Harris, understated and elegant, these country socks will add the finishing touches to your outfit. Beautifully knitted cable top sock in rich, vibrant shades – perfect for any occasion. As with all House of Cheviot’s shooting socks and country hosiery, Lady Harris is hand-finished to ensure premium quality.

These socks have the Ladies Working Dog Group (LWDG) logo on the folded top in contrasting gold.

There are also matching wrist warmers available.

 

We hope that you are as excited as us to finally have an exclusive sock for those shoot days, and cannot wait to see pictures of you all wearing them!

To get your matching pair, please click the button below:

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