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The Welsh Springer Spaniel

It’s June and that means it’s time for our second blog post in our Vulnerable Breed Series! This month’s vulnerable breed is The Welsh Springer Spaniel. This blog has been kindly written for us by Jane Sutherland from the Welsh Springer Spaniel Club of South Wales, and the images used throughout have been kindly sent to us by Jane too.

To refresh your mind on what breeds are currently on the Native Vulnerable Breed list, please click here.

Background and Characteristics
The Welsh Springer is a very ancient breed that can trace its ancestry back to the 10th Century. It was widespread across the UK until the beginning of the last century and was often known as a Starter or Springing Spaniel. With the advent of the English Springer and then subsequently the Cocker Spaniel, the breed declined in popularity but held on in Wales and amongst enthusiasts of the breed, with its reputation as a tenacious game finder in hardcover and tough conditions.

The Welsh Springer is a medium-sized spaniel, smaller than the English Springer, symmetrical and compact, not leggy, strong and muscular. However, still quick and active and with a merry disposition. They are always a rich red and white in colour, with no exceptions, standing between 18 and 19 inches to the wither. The Welsh Springer Spaniel possesses superb scenting and game finding abilities as well as real versatility, happily adapting to any role in the field. From beating, picking up, duck flighting, sitting in a hide decoying pigeons to following a blood trail shooting deer, they are great working dogs. A very loyal and sociable spaniel, they love family life as well as  the working life so fit happily into your life and onto your sofa!

Welsh Springer Spaniel
Working A Welsh Springer

I have had and worked with Welsh Springers for over 25 years and am currently the Working and  Field Trial Secretary for the Welsh Springer Spaniel Club of South Wales. It would be wrong of me to suggest that they are easier or harder to train than any other spaniel. Like all breeds, it requires patience and consideration to get the best out of your Welsh. The Welsh Springer can be both stubborn and opinionated but once trained these characteristics to become a genuine asset, resulting in a shooting companion who is intelligent, determined and a remorseless hunter.

They are capable of going all day! We frequently arrive before the shooting day starts to push in the boundaries and arrive back at the Shoot Hut as everyone is leaving, having been asked to do a final sweep of the last drives to collect any missed birds. The breed is different in style from the other, more popular spaniel breeds. They are slightly steadier of pace which allows them to maintain the same energy and drive all day, they have outstanding noses, however, and very rarely miss birds, often finding blinked birds down rabbit holes or lost retrieves hung up in clematis or vines many feet above their heads.

Like everyone who works a vulnerable breed, we are inevitably the only representatives on a shoot, a double-edged sword because it makes your mistakes as noticeable as your successes! But it’s always a source of huge pride when the “is that a cocker then?” spaniel puts in a good day’s work and manages some eye-catching retrieves and flushes.

The Breed’s Versatility and The Welsh Springer Spaniel Clubs

I both work and compete my Welsh, attending Working Tests and Field Trials. We beat and pick up on local shoots and rough shoot over our team of Welsh. They also show and I  currently have the only one living Champion in the breed.

There are a dedicated group of people striving to maintain the dual purpose of the Welsh Springer, these happy adaptable dogs are able to segue effortlessly from Show Ring to Shooting Field to Family life and much more.

The breed is always represented at the Game Fair and I would encourage anyone who is interested in Welsh Springers to come along and meet us. There are four Breed Clubs nationally, and we are working hard to preserve this lovely gundog and to support research into the health of the breed.

To find out more about the Welsh Springer Spaniel, click the button below to view the Breed Profile on the Kennel Club’s website:

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To read the previous blog of this series, click the button below:

The Sussex Spaniel

Let’s Talk Dachshund

You may be wondering why we have a blog on them, I mean, they’re just a handbag dog aren’t they? Actually, these little wonders are amazing working dogs. Dawn Seago, from K9 Lifestyles, did a Zoom call with us about her experience with The Dachsund- and has very kindly written this blog for us.

The History

The name Dachshund means “Badger Dog” in German translation, Dachs meaning Badger, Hund as a dog. Some say that the Dachshund originated from the Basset Hound during the French revolution, but Dachshunds were already in Germany at this time. Queen Victoria had a Dachshund called “Dash” bought for her by Prince Albert, they were thought to be in England before this though.

Dawn

Dawn Seago and Diesel

About The Breed

There are 6 varieties and three coat types recognised in the UK: mini smooth; mini long; mini wire; standard smooth; standard long; standard wire. No matter what the coat or the size, it is a Dachshund. Sometimes referred to as a “Teckel”, it is still a Dachshund, most commonly people call the wire-haired type Teckels.

They are clever, stubborn, lively, independent and very courageous, to the point of rashness. They are not a small little handbag dog, which is what they seem to be at present.  They will dig their way out of a garden if bored or restless, forget your nice flowers as they will have them destroyed if left to their own devices, I have lost a few flowers. They have immense power in forequarters and forelegs, when viewed from the front the thorax should be full and oval-shaped, this allows good capacity for the heart and lungs. The feet should be bigger on the front legs than the back legs to allow for digging. There is of course lots more to the Breed standard, so it’s advisable to research this.

Dawn’s Dachshunds

As A Working Dog

The Dachshund does not fare well being left alone all day, as boredom and destruction will happen. Like many dogs, they do not arrive in your home fully trained. They are highly intelligent and will manipulate humans quite easily, they are a Hound with a brain. Some breeders will say Wires are extroverts, Longs are laid back, Smooths are said to be the “one person dog”.  In training with your Dachshund- be consistent with it, they will be stubborn, and if they find a weakness? “Boom”, they own you. As they grow, find a job for them to do, all kinds of nose work are the best thing for a Dachshund. They were bred to hunt, harness that power and get them working. They love to track/trail, there are lots of scent work clubs to join. I have one who Tracks for wounded deer with BMH of GB, we train once a month. As a Mantrailing UK Instructor, they Mantrail too, (not looking for a man).  I even have a Dachshund who does Parkour and Hoopers. All of these activities are low impact sports so they are suitable for a Dachshund.  Talking of backs- yes, some do have issues with IVDD, just be watchful of things like too much jumping or stairs, keeping the Dachshund fit helps. There is lots of information on The Dachshund Breed Council Website.

Thinking Of Owning One?

Before buying a Dachshund, visit some conformation shows and talk to breeders. Find out the breed’s health status and ask questions. If you have made your mind up to welcome a Dachshund in your home, then talk to several different breeders- not just one. Choose your breeder wisely, and make friends long before you get your puppy, good breeders do not always have puppies on sale. I also show my Dachshunds to Championship level, and welcome people to chat to me about working their Dachshunds too.

Remember these little dogs love to work, they will surprise you with their tenacity to do a job.

To find out more about Dawn, you can visit her Facebook page by clicking the button below:

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Fancy Something Different For Dinner?

We get it- thinking about what to have for dinner all the time is hard. We thought we would help you with a fantastic recipe from BRITISH GAME ASSURANCE– so, Fancy Something Different For Dinner?

Partridge Winter Salad With Salsa Verde

A warm salad, celebrating wonderful seasonal winter vegetables, accompanied with the addition of tangy satsuma.  Leeks make a great warm salad and using the stem of the leek in the salad, and the leaves in the salsa verde mean every part of the leek is used.

Salad Ingredients
  • 2 partridges
  • 1 leek stem
  • 30g (approx. 1/2 cup) watercress
  • 1 satsuma
  • Rapeseed oil
Salsa Verde Ingredients
  • 2 tbsp leek leaves, diced finely
  • Oil
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 1 bunch of fresh basil leaves
  • 1 handful of fresh mint leaves
  • 1 tbsp capers
  • 1 tbsp gherkin, diced finely
  • 6 anchovy fillets
  • 1/2 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Method

Salsa Verde

  • Finely dice the leek leaves (like the size of finely chopped chives), and gently fry over a medium heat in a little oil for 1 minute.
  • Crush the garlic cloves, and make it into a paste.
  • Finely chop the basil, mint, capers, gherkins and anchovy and combine in a bowl, and mix well.
  • Add the cooked leek leaves and stir through to combine.
  • Add the mustard and vinegar, then slowly add the oil until you achieve a nice consistency.  You may want to add more or less oil.
  • Taste, and add some black pepper, or a little bit of sea salt to adjust the balance of flavour, if you wish

Partridge

  • Preheat the oven to 180 C.
  • Heat a non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat and add a drizzle of oil. Season the partridges all over with salt and pepper, place in the heated pan, and cook gently over the heat for 3–4 minutes, until they start to become slightly golden in colour. Turn the partridges if necessary.
  • Transfer the partridges to a roasting tray, and roast in the oven for 8–10 minutes until the partridges are just cooked, but slightly pink inside.  (Whilst the partridges are roasting, cook the leeks per step 12 and assemble the salad)
  • Transfer the partridges to a warm plate and leave to rest for 5 minutes.  Cut the breasts from the partridges, and slice them into thin slices.

Salad

  • Slice the leek stem into thin circles.
  • Heat some oil in a frying pan and gently fry the leeks for 2 minutes over a medium heat.
  • Transfer to your serving plates
  • Pick the watercress leaves from their stems, and add the watercress to the leeks
  • Slice segments of satsuma, removing as much of the white pith as possible
  • Top the leek and watercress with slices of partridge breast, and sliced satsuma.  Drizzle the salsa verde over the salad, and serve.

And there you have it, tonight’s dinner plan is sorted! If you would like to view more fantastic recipes by our friends at the British Game Assurance, click the button below:

VISIT THE BRITISH GAME ASSURANCE WEBSITE

How To Work With A Cheeky Dog

claire denyer featured expert ladies working dog group

Guest Blog Post by LWDG Group Expert Claire Denyer

Do you find your gundog can be a bit “cheeky’ from time to time? That they know what they’re supposed to do but do the total opposite? One of our fantastic featured experts, Claire Denyer, has provided us with this amazing blog all about her training experiences, common mistakes and how to handle the cheeky gundog!

 

This is the face of a very beautiful and cheeky young gundog who knows she was very cheeky during training this morning. Training your dog won’t always go perfectly, it won’t always go as you thought it would. That’s normal and it is the reality.

What should I do when things go wrong?

I’m often asked what I do when things go wrong. The honest answer is that it totally depends on the dog I am working with, what has gone wrong, why it has gone wrong, the environment, and the situation.

I hope the following helps you think about what you should do when things go wrong…

Training

When we are training the dog, we are educating the dog. We may use luring, shaping, repetition, and consistency, to aid successful training. We encourage the dog to make good choices, and the gundog is rewarded for those choices. Behaviours which are rewarded are more likely to be repeated.

Duration, Distance and Distractions

Look at the duration, distance, and the distractions, and ask yourself if you have prepared your gundog enough, have you prepared them for each element, if not then go back a step in your training and build duration, distance, and distractions, in that order.

Proofing the training 

Ensure you proof the training in a variety of environments and under varying conditions.

Constructive Correction

However, if the dog understands what is required, but chooses not to comply, we use constructive and appropriate (not harsh or abusive) corrections to encourage the dog to make the right and rewarding choices in the future.  Correcting a dog does not mean being cruel. We do not advocate harsh handling. It’s not necessary or nice.

LWDG Group Expert,  Trainer  Claire Denyer

Common Mistakes

I thought I’d go through some of the more common mistakes we commonly see handlers make when correcting their dogs in gundog training:Many handlers use a ‘stern telling off voice’ but they raise their voice, some almost shouting, and the dog becomes numb to it, so often becomes ineffective, or in some cases, is always required because the gundog no longer listens to a normal speaking voice.

If done correctly, a verbal (non-shouty) verbal correction can work, however, you must also put the training in to teach the behaviours you want more of, and reward those behaviours.

Many trainers recommend ‘getting after your dog’ if they ignore the stop whistle or recall. Now, I will go out to my dog if she is ignoring me, but in most situations, I personally find running after dogs ineffective (unless you are trying to cut across their path to stop them from swapping dummies or similar). Some gundogs think you are joining in, some think you are playing chase and it becomes a game, some gundogs are very sensitive, and then it can create other issues. To be perfectly honest, I’m not sure I know many owners who could physically ‘get after their dog’ successfully anyway.

So unless it’s very effective for you and your gundog personally (or required in very specific situations) I would suggest you just go get your dog and walk them back on lead (do not give another command) to roughly where they ignored the stop whistle (I call this the walk of shame!) and sit them up, pip the stop whistle and resume where you left off. If they ignored the recall whistle then go get them, pop the lead on, and walk them back in silence, then do a successful mini recall to ensure you and your dog are on the same page.

If a gundog is repeatedly breaking a stay, don’t just correct the gundog, or get frustrated, look at the behaviour your dog is displaying in that situation. If your dog is creeping towards you it is very likely they lack confidence, or you have increased the difficulty of the exercise too quickly, so getting frustrated won’t help, and may even make the problem worse. A dog getting up and buggering off however is a different matter.

So, how did I handle Rose’s misdemeanours this morning?

Well, when she thought she knew best on a blind retrieve and ignored my line, going in the direction instead of where she had picked a retrieve previously, I called her back and reset her, giving her a chance to follow the line a second time. However, although she started well, she did again deviate from the line, so I called her back and walked her closer in the hope she would take the line and wind the retrieve. However, Rose clearly in a headstrong mood still didn’t follow the line. This time I walked her to heel towards the retrieve until I was sure she would wind it, I then turned and walked her to heel away from the retrieve, before turning and re-sending her, this time she took the line and was successful. The important lesson was that she didn’t find the retrieve when ignoring me. She found it through working with me.

We then resumed training but I was mindful to keep blinds short and successful.

Then two lovely retrieves later Rose tried to play keep-away with the retrieve, I mean, the last time she even considered such a cheeky move was such a long time ago I can’t remember. She was literally bouncing about playfully. Not a behaviour I expected nor want to encourage so I gave her my best-disgusted look, turned on my heel and started walking away. Rose followed me and gave me the retrieve immediately.

So, on that note, we decided to stop the session. No hard feelings. Never hold a grudge. Never get angry (even if inside you are fuming)

I never continue training if I feel frustrated or upset by something. It’s not worth it. We are only human. Better to stop and do something positive and leave your session with your dog still as your best mate.

Remember, gundogs make mistakes just like we do.

Further Info:

If you would like to purchase Claire’s book, The Life of Rose: Raising a Puppy the Family Dog Services Way, you can do so by clicking the link to our LWDG Amazon Store.

Find lots of gundog training books recommended by the LWDG community To view previous LWDG resources with Claire Denyer, please click here:

LWDG PODDOG is a podcast all about working with dogs. if you would like to listen then please click the button below:

Vulnerable Breeds Series: The Pointer

Welcome back to our Vulnerable Breeds Series! This month’s blog is on The Pointer. For those who are new to the series, this is all about raising awareness for vulnerable breeds here in the UK, starting with the native breeds. Following The Kennel Club’s Vulnerable Native Breed List, we are speaking to breed-specific clubs from across the UK to find out about the breed and what the club does to promote it. A huge thank you to The Pointer Club and their Honorary Field Trial Secretary, Carole Brown for giving us the context for this blog.

pointer pointing

About The Pointer

The supreme scenting machine, the Pointer is a wonderful example of a breed fit for its original function. The Pointer gallops on large expanses of land to detect the scent of the game and then freezes in a “point” in the direction of the sitting game.
The Pointer is an athlete, considered the thoroughbred of the gundogs. His hunting style is with head held high, galloping with style and pace, lashing his bee-sting tail. It is no wonder that the Pointer was much in demand by the gentry of the 18th and 19th centuries with large kennels of 200-300 dogs, as they were considered the most stylish of gundogs.

 

The Pointer is an active, intelligent dog who needs daily exercise and stimulation. They were bred to be hunting dogs who could work all day long so they must have at least an hour of exercise a day. When they are given the exercise and training they need, they are quiet and mannerly house dogs.

pointer dog

Kennel Club Breed Standard (Snippets)

General Appearance- Symmetrical and well built all over, general outline a series of graceful curves. A strong but lissom appearance.

Characteristics- Aristocratic. Alert with the appearance of strength, endurance and speed.

Temperament- Kind, even disposition.

Body- Well sprung ribs carried well back gradually falling away at strong muscular and slightly arched loins. Short coupled. Haunch bones are well spaced and prominent, not above the level of the back.

Colour- Usual colours are lemon and white, orange and white, liver and white, and black and white. Self-colours and tricolours are also correct.

About The Pointer Club

 The club’s goal is to maintain and promote the breed as a ‘fit for function’, that is also suitable as a family member. The Pointer Club provides breed-specific input into the KC on our Breed Standard. The club is responsible to the KC as custodians of the Pointer breed standard and work with and advises the KC on all matters regarding breed health guidelines and manages a number of KC-related activities such as maintaining breeder code of conduct policies, running judge education seminars and managing judge accreditations.

The Pointer Club organises a number of events each year ranging from Shows (Championship & Open) and Field Trials. We also provide help and advice to members on training, owning, showing and working Pointers.

The Pointer Club has the declared objective of promoting the interests of the breed, uniting those interested in the breed and upholding the Standard of the Pointer

Working Pointers

The Club runs seven Field Trials each year in accordance with Kennel Club Rules & Regulations.

The aim of each trial is to run it as close as possible to a day’s shooting. The dogs are required to systemically quarter the ground with pace and style, showing natural hunting ability. They should point gamebirds and when asked, work out the point freely and drop to flush and shot.

In addition to the field trials, the club also holds up to three training days for Pointers and Setters per year. The aim of these days is to help educate & encourage newcomers to our sport. They are designed to help owners and their dogs to gain an insight into the background and basic training of a working Pointer or Setter and also understand more about the quarry and management of the ground that we work on. From attending these days, some participants are able to progress to a standard capable of competing in field trials.

To learn more about The Pointer Club, click the button below:

The Pointer Club

 

To view our last Vulnerable Breed blog on the Irish Water Spaniel, click the button below:

Irish Water Spaniel Blog

LWDG Collab With On The Peg

They’re finally here! LWDG have collaborated with On The Peg to bring you exclusive Lady Harris Shooting Socks and Wrist Warmers!

 

Both items are available in two colours- Bilberry (above) and Dark Olive (seen in the blog cover photo).

Merino wool ladies’ country socks. Lady Harris, understated and elegant, these country socks will add the finishing touches to your outfit. Beautifully knitted cable top sock in rich, vibrant shades – perfect for any occasion. As with all House of Cheviot’s shooting socks and country hosiery, Lady Harris is hand-finished to ensure premium quality.

These socks have the Ladies Working Dog Group (LWDG) logo on the folded top in contrasting gold.

There are also matching wrist warmers available.

 

We hope that you are as excited as us to finally have an exclusive sock for those shoot days, and cannot wait to see pictures of you all wearing them!

To get your matching pair, please click the button below:

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How Do I Know When My Dog ’Knows’ Something?

One of our amazing Featured Experts, Leanne Smith, has put together this blog to help you understand more about your dog and how to help both you and your dog communicate more effectively.

Introduction

How do I know when my dog ‘knows’ something? This is the $1,000,000 question.

The answer to this question then dictates how we respond to our dogs both in a teaching or training sense and also in an emotional sense.

If we assume that our dog ‘knows’ a behaviour and our dog does not respond correctly, then we can become frustrated or disappointed that our dog has ‘failed’ or assume that our dog has deliberately chosen not to do what we have asked of them.

A wise person once said,“We expect too much from our dogs and not enough from ourselves”.

For what it’s worth, these are my thoughts on knowing when a dog ‘knows’ a behaviour.

I like to think of working with my gundog as a conversation.  I ask a question in the form of some sort of training exercise or set up and then let the dog answer the question with either getting things correct or making an error.  Errors are just information on the state of learning; where the dog is in their understanding of what is being asked.

I look at errors as holes in my dog’s learning which I need to find a way to ‘fill’ by doing more teaching in that area.

Leanne Smith

Principle 1 – Dog’s are very situation-specific with what they learn, they have to learn to generalise behaviours.

In practice, this means that the slightest change in the environment can interfere with a dog’s ability to understand what it is that you want from them.  As you train the same behaviour in 100’s different places with 100’s of successful repetitions, then a dog will begin to generalise a behaviour.

The more educated a dog is, the quicker it can generalise a behaviour as they learn the life skill of generalising.

I am more surprised when behaviour does work in a new situation than if it doesn’t.

Questions to ask ourselves when a dog makes an error: –

  • Have I trained this behaviour in this location under this specific set of conditions?

  • If the location is the same, are the weather conditions the same, dry still weather is low scent conditions, damp windy weather is high scent conditions?

  • Are the distractions the same, different people, different dogs, additional wildlife?

  • Is my dog cognitive right now or is he in the reaction part of his brain?

The answers to these questions will then affect how we need to proceed to help our dogs to give the correct answer to the question that we have asked, in the form of the exercise that we have given them to do.

We have to find a way to help them understand in that situation.

Picture of Erik and Ragnar practicing boundary work in a low distraction environment.

Principle 2 – Dogs do what historically has worked best for them.

This raises the question of motivation.  If my dog understands what is being asked of him, and still chooses to do something different then the value in doing what I asked is not sufficient.

An example of this is my GWP, I never managed to find something that was sufficiently motivating for her to choose to recall away from hunting game.  As a result, I managed her on a long line and harness in the areas that I knew would be an issue, and she free-ran only in areas where I knew she could make correct decisions about the recall.

I learned a valuable lesson from that gundog and now work really hard with all my pups to create the ultimate reinforcer that is more valuable to them than hunting game or anything else.

Principle 3 – 80% or above, the success rate in a given situation with ‘fluency’ is my criteria that my dog ‘knows’ something.

Dogs are not machines and they will make mistakes sometimes, as we all do.  However, if my dog has an 8/10 success rate, I would say that they have a good grasp of what is being asked.  In this article, I define fluency as the ability to quickly repeat the cue multiple times with no deterioration in the quality of response or increase in latency (time to respond from when the cue is given).

Principle 4 – Human error, did I ask the dog the right question or give him the right information?

I heard about some research that has been done looking at the number of errors a dog makes compared to the number of errors a handler makes in a training session.  It turns out that the dogs made four or five times fewer errors than the average handler (from what I can remember).

This is a very important question to keep asking ourselves.  Videoing our training sessions can be very enlightening.  Quite often what we think we are doing; is not what we are actually doing!  We can create confusion in our dog, and not understand why.  Seeing what is we are actually doing, can clear up many training issues, by showing us what we need to change.  This can either be in the way we handle or how we communicate with our dog.

How does this help?

Since I have taken this approach to errors that occur in a teaching or training session, it has helped me to be able to see why my dog wasn’t able to give me the correct answer, which, in turn, has helped to reduce my frustration during working with my dog.

The first processes that I go through when faced with an error are checking in my mind, does my dog understand what I am asking, and is he motivated to do the behaviour.

Once I have recognised the main source of the error, either understanding or motivation, or sometimes both, then I can look at ways to fix it.

When the error is caused by a lack of understanding I look at how I can break the problem down into smaller chunks.  See the example below.

An example – 

My dog is steady at home with one other familiar dog but can’t manage to be steady in a group situation in a different environment.

I would split that down in to stages, only progressing when I get 8/10 success rate

  1. Work on steadiness at home with one unfamiliar dogs
  2. Work on steadiness at home with two unfamiliar dogs
  3. Work on steadiness at home with three unfamiliar dogs
  4. Work on steadiness at home with four unfamiliar dogs
  5. Go to the different environment and work on cue discrimination, stay, retrieve, plus other cues as an only dog.
  6. Work on steadiness in the new environment with one familiar dog
  7. Work on steadiness in the new environment with one unfamiliar dog
  8. Work on steadiness in the new environment with two unfamiliar dogs
  9. Work on steadiness in the new environment with three unfamiliar dogs
  10. Work on steadiness in the new environment with four unfamiliar dogs

I could also split these sections down further if my dog was still making errors.

When the error is caused by a lack of motivation then I will use management to prevent my dog from self-reinforcing in the short term and go back to basics and build better motivators for that dog.  When looking at creating better motivators I start in a very low challenge environment and then work back up to the problem environment.

If my dog looks ’guilty’, does this mean that he understands that he did the wrong thing?

Probably not, is the short answer to that question.

There have been studies done observing dogs’ reactions to situations looking at exactly this question.

A dog was left in a room with a piece of food and told to leave it, the owner then left the room for a short period of time.  They were told to either act happy or cross when they returned regardless of whether the dog had eaten the food or not.

What they found was the dog reacted positively if the owner came back in happy and in a ‘guilty’ way, when the owner came back in the acting cross, regardless of whether or not they had eaten the food.

The dogs were responding to the owner’s body language rather than the situation.

When dogs sense conflict building, they will generally try to appease and diffuse the situation.  Unfortunately for dogs, this behaviour has been labelled as ‘acting guilty’.  The more that the dog tries to appease the owner, the crosser the owner becomes, as they think that the dog is acknowledging wrong doing.  In actual fact, the dog is trying to say please stop being cross.

Dogs are very good at picking up when we are less than impressed.  For some sensitive individuals, indications as slight as a bit of a tut under your breath or a sigh can be enough for them to realise that something is wrong.  Not necessarily what or why something is wrong, but that there is something wrong.

If we look cross when the dog returns to us the chances are that he will sense something is wrong and display some sort of appeasement or displacement behaviour.  What that behaviour is, depends upon the dog’s personality and the level of ‘agro’ being displayed by the handler.

These behaviours can be as extreme as belly crawling, urinating, or rolling on his back.  It could be much more subtle, tail down lower than normal, hindquarters dropped slightly, turning his head sideways onto you, ‘smiling’- where he pulls his lips back in a submissive grin.  It could also be ‘crazy behaviours, having a fit of the zoomies, or playing keep away.

Videoing also helps us to see the really subtle signs of disapproval that we give out and how this affects our dog’s behaviour.

To read more about Leanne’s work or to visit Leanne’s website, please click the button below:

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The Irish Water Spaniel

It’s July’s edition of our Vulnerable Breeds series! This month, we are looking at the Irish Water Spaniel.

The Kennel Club’s Native Vulnerable Breed list has many native breeds that are under threat, so the LWDG have asked breed clubs to tell us about their breed to help promote them.

We asked the Irish Water Spaniel Association to help us educate about the breed. A huge thank you to them for contributing to this blog!

Breed Profile

The IWS (Irish Water Spaniel) is a highly intelligent dog and may not be for the ‘fainthearted’.  You will need a lot of patience for this slow, maturing breed. However, this will be rewarded with a loyal companion.

It is best to start them at a few weeks old to recognise the whistle by using it to call them in at feeding times (this imitates the recall when working later on). As they grow, ‘little and often’ obtains the best results! They will naturally carry their toys, etc around. To build on this, we introduce some basic obedience to gain control, which you will realise is of utmost importance as you progress. Training can start in your garden or enclosed area.

Socialisation is paramount once they are able to go to public areas because as a breed they can be ‘aloof ‘ and wary of strangers.

What Does The Kennel Club Say?

The Irish breed club was founded in 1890 although liver-coloured water dogs with curly coats, top knots and rat tails had been known for centuries before that date. One of the most influential dogs in Ireland, Boatswain, was born in 1834 and his bloodline can be found throughout the world. His breeder Mr Justin McCarthy was a pillar of the breed.

Although the breed is classified as a ‘spaniel’ he works as a retriever, particularly in retrieving from water. In the UK he runs in retriever trials.

Theories on the ancestry of the breed include the French Barbet, the English Water Spaniel (now extinct) and the Poodle, which was originally used as water retrieving breed.

IWS with a pheasant
Working The Breed

The IWS are a compact powerful dogs which was an old Irish breed for working the peat bog areas (sometimes fondly referred to as the ‘Bog Dog’). They have large webbed feet to obtain stability on soft ground, also making them great in the water. As a Spaniel, some do naturally quarter however for competition purposes the KC here in the UK classify them as a Retrieve. This is also the same as the Irish KC.

A Note From The Irish Water Spaniel Association

To progress with your IWS, try to locate a trainer with knowledge of the breed. There are 2 KC registered Breed Clubs for IWS. The IWSA holds various events throughout the year catering for all aspects of the breed; including Training Days and access to experienced owners who work their dogs. For help and advice, more details can be found on their website. Alternatively, you can find them on Facebook at UK Irish Water Spaniel Association.

The Sporting Irish Water Spaniel Club (SIWSC) also has a website and a Facebook page for details of their activities. As you gain experience, you could decide to go on some shoots picking up or beating, some may decide to compete in Working Tests or Field Trials.

In conclusion, the IWSA would like to wish you every success in anything you try to achieve with your IWS companion.

Visit The IWSA Website

Exciting News! We Are British Game Assurance Brand Partners!

We are so excited to announce that this month we officially became Brand Partners of the British Game Alliance!
Who Are The British Game Alliance?

The British Game Alliance was set up to promote, develop and assure the consumption of game meat by creating a thriving game meat market, underpinned by an independent assurance from egg to plate.

All BGA’s Brand Partners are companies who support the mission of the BGA and want to support their vision of an independently-assured game shooting sector and a thriving game meat market.

If you would like to find out more about The British Game Alliance, please click the button to visit their site below:

The BGA

What Are We Looking For In A Dog Training Vest?

Update : Our trainer review can be found here
With summer in full swing, many of us are looking for a new dog training vest. In our Facebook communities, ladies post questions like:
  • Can anyone recommend a hunting vest for the larger lady?
  • Best company to buy a training vest from??? And which one?! 😳. I have a feeling the waistcoat type might get too warm.
  • I think the time has come to treat myself to a dummy vest any suggestions please appreciated
  • my current cheap “falconry” dummy vest has given up and I have the cash aside for a new proper training vest. What do we all recommend? It will be for all-year wear and I normally wear mine when working them too, so good for game as well as dummies (don’t put the game in the vest but may get splattered as I use my over-shoulder game carrier)

So when our lovely member Heidi told us all about a new lightweight vest she had seen at a dog show, we were all ears!

 

Heidi told us that she had raved to Mark, owner of Happy Hotdogs  about our group and he wanted to chat to us about reviewing the New/Upgraded – ‘Light’ Pinewood Professional Dog Sports/Dog Training Gilet For Ladies

We chatted to Mark and agreed to review the Pinewood Training Vest with some of our incredible Featured Experts and team.

As you know, we take reviews incredibly seriously in the LWDG.  And we want to put this vest through its paces. So our reviewing team includes:

How are we reviewing the vest?

Our review team are going to use the vests in their day-to-day dog training lives. Then they will post on Instagram and Facebook about the vest, so you can all get genuine feedback on how the vest performs. Integrity is everything to us, so we will be honest throughout.

At the end of the review period, we will collect all their feedback and put it together in one blog post for you to read. You can find their individual posts using the hashtag #lwdghappy

 

NEWSFLASH: Happy Hotdogs are also offering a discount whilst we review for all LWDG ladies ( and gentlemen) 

The Non-Member discount code is LWDG-15 and can be used to get £15 off any of the following Pinewood Products. 
Society Members can find their discount code with higher value voucher on July 1st of the Group Calendar.    

The discount code can be used on the:  Pinewood Jacket, The Pinewood Light Vest, and The Pinewood Regular Vest. These are available designed and cut for both men and women.

You can visit Happy Hotdogs online at www.happyhotdogs.co.uk/collections/pinewood

Leave

Getting Prepared for A Litter

Are you getting ready for your first litter? Or perhaps you have had litters before but you’re not 100% on the best equipment for the arrival, whelping or rearing?

Welcoming new life into the world can be very rewarding, but it can also be quite difficult. This blog post includes some of our member’s comments on the things you may need to welcome your litter into the world, and they also cover what to expect. More of our member’s expertise can be found in the Ladies Working Dog Group Free Facebook Community. 

setter dog with puppies drinking milk

CLAIRE

A whelping box, rubber matting, stock up on newspaper, a heat lamp and a digital thermometer!  I kept an entire litter once, so keep what (puppies from the litter) you want!

HATTY

Puppystim on Amazon. Literally a puppy life-saver. I will NEVER be without it.

GRACE

Have a plan for when they’re 4 weeks + – ours stayed in their whelping box as it was massive, but we put them onto shavings in it whilst trying to house train them as much as we could, we found it far easier than newspaper! Lots of towels, puppy milk & syringe just incase. Take temp and keep an eye.. mine didn’t eat breakfast the morning of both her litters. She was a week early both times also, but I had no idea the first time, called her to the front door and she come for late checks at the stables, it was only once I’d had a shower and went to bed I noticed a puppy squirming around 😳safe to say I put them both into the whelping box and had to sit with her for the duration of labour.

NICOLA

When it comes to worming pups buy paste not liquid. More liquid ends up out of the puppy than in it 🤣 Also don’t be tempted to let people come and see to buy until you are 100% which one you are keeping.

LUCY

Budget for a caesarean (in our hospital that can be £1-2k!). You’ll need to worm daily from day 40 of pregnancy to 2 days post-whelping. Familiarise yourself with complications to look for and the normal progression of birth. Sort your vet out ASAP for docking (if necessary for your breed) as most vets don’t do it anymore. Read “Book of the Bitch”.

SELINA

Read up on pre eclampsia/ eclampsia before she’s pregnant and again before she’s due. Know the signs. Also learn about mastitis treatment, quick treatment for these sort of issues can prevent the need for intervention.

NAOMI

Vet bed for mum, I litter trained my pups which made things so much easier. Look at wheatgerm and raspberry leaf extract supplements (dorwest herbs). There’s lot of great resources out there to read on, puppy culture and book of the bitch for example. Also if you can find a local experienced breeder who’s happy to be on call during whelping, as there may be things you’ll worry about that’s normal and save a unnecessary trip to vets. If things do go wrong, get a few bit of dollar stashed in the bank. It can get very expensive very quickly. Most importantly find time to sleep and relax, it’s bloody hard work but so worth it.

KATHY

I prefer a special heated mat to a lamp then puppies can choose to get on or off it..especially when the bitch starts to leave them for exercise etc. Also try and have a friend who has delivered puppies before with you during whelping…(this is) always helpful if one needs a bit of extra care.I stay with the bitch all the time once she’s started. Good luck and enjoy.

LORRAINE

Best to have plenty in the bank in case of complications, c section etc as insurance doesn’t usually cover that. Plenty of old clean towels, sheets newspapers as it gets Very messy lol. If you know any experienced breeders as friends, it’s good to have on speed dial. I also take my bitches temperature from a day or two before she’s due as it changes before she goes into labour.

golden retriever puppies

If you are interested in purchasing the “Book of The Bitch” as mentioned in the comments above, you can get yours by pressing the link below:

Purchase Now

Maybe you’re not looking to breed and would rather help with purchasing a puppy. Click the button below to go to our blog on top tips for choosing a working puppy:

Click Here Now

Isolation and Training

Isolation and Training

Written by Charlotte Perrott

As the lockdown continues nationwide, a lot of us are feeling a sense of loss. That loss may be routine, a job, or maybe even a loved one. I know I am feeling a sense of loss too. This blog is dedicated to those, like me, whose lives have changed due to the pandemic. Also, as those who are also struggling with their mental health at this time. Today, I’m looking at self-care tips, training tips and important information for those who are feeling the struggle.

Self Care

Self-care is becoming increasingly popular. It’s not necessarily running yourself a bath and chucking a bath bomb in,  but it is little things that you can do on a daily basis to help you feel better mentally. The whole point is that it is baby steps- not drastic measures- in order to have a small win each day mentally. It’s important to remember that no one among us has been through this pandemic before. So, if today you couldn’t even get out of bed, it’s important to be kind to yourself and allow yourself to have an “off day”.

Tips
  1. Move! Not only will your dog(s) thank you for this, but it’s just as important mentally as it is physically. Do at least 30 minutes of exercise a day. Now, I don’t mean that you need to do 30 minutes of high-intensity, “I’m gonna collapse!” workout routines; but even if you just managed 3 x 10-minute strolls a day, it will be beneficial for both mind and body.
  2. Take in your surroundings- when I first looked at what self-care was best and came across this, I thought- “what is the point of staring out of my window for 5 minutes?”. However, arguably it does help. Just sitting and listening to the world around you, whether that be in the countryside or in the city, can help you bring a little bit of mindfulness into your day.
  3. Sitting and scrolling- I am the first to say that I am addicted to Instagram. It helps to escape reality and live in a world full of influencers, celebrities and companies. However, sometimes Instagram can seem absolutely perfect, with perfect bodies, houses, jobs, dogs and so much more. Try and limit the amount of time you spend scrolling. Don’t eat the salad if you don’t like it. There’s enough to stress about at the moment without adding extra pressure on yourself to look a certain way. Eat well, move more and remember that not everything is as it seems on social media.
  4. Plan your (and your dog’s) menu and training for the week- I love organisation, and if I don’t plan my food for the week, I end up impulse buying which isn’t good for me mentally. Having a plan for both training and eating means you free up time and eliminate the purchases or rush decisions you make; this means that you probably will make better choices for both you and your dog(s).
Training Tips

 I spoke to our featured experts about their top tips for training your dog within isolation/lockdown, here is what they advise:

  1. Stripping training right back to the basics and adding enrichment. There is no point adding extra stress with training during an already stressful time, remember to be patient as stress travels down the lead.
  2. Make an individual plan for each dog and stick to it. Each dog is a different age and has a different personality so remember to tailor it to suit each dog and make sure the plan is stuck to. Not everyone will have access to training facilities and game, so it would be helpful to use this time to train obedience and technical retrieves for the more advanced dogs.
  3. Use the LWDG Magic Month planner for clear goals to be set during training, and use it to write each dog’s progress, strengths and weaknesses.
  4. If you have bought a puppy in lockdown, the chances are when you go back to work, that puppy is going to suffer from separation anxiety. Practice leaving your puppy alone for short breaks and building the time up. The best time to practice this is when the puppy is sleeping., this is usually a good time to leave them alone.

You can purchase your very own Magic Month Planner by clicking the button below:

BUY A MAGIC MONTH PLANNER NOW!
Useful Contacts

We know that we have an amazing community where ladies can reach out and help each other, but we also know how important it is to seek professional help if you need it. Below are the telephone numbers for various mental health charities that can support you during this difficult time:

Samaritans- Confidential support for people experiencing feelings of distress or despair. Phone: 116 123 (free 24-hour helpline)

Refuge- Advice on dealing with domestic violence. Phone: 0808 2000 247 (24-hour helpline)

Mind- Promotes the views and needs of people with mental health problems. Phone: 0300 123 3393 (Monday to Friday, 9 am to 6 pm)

You can find more helplines for various mental health concerns by clicking the button below:

CLICK HERE

Vulnerable Breed Blog: Sussex Spaniel

This blog is the first of the series where we speak to a club about their vulnerable breed. Using THE KENNEL CLUB’S NATIVE VULNERABLE BREED LIST, we reached out to different clubs about their breed. We asked how they are used for working and how the breed has unfortunately ended up on the list, alongside their characteristics.  This time, we are looking at the Sussex Spaniel. We spoke to the Sussex Spaniel Association who have very kindly produced this blog and given us the images used throughout.

The Sussex Spaniel

Background

The Sussex Spaniel is named after the place of its origin. They have proven to be a very capable and reliable companion out in the field. This has been since its establishment as a working gundog, sometime in the middle of the 18th century.

The Sussex Spaniel was developed specifically to hunt gamebirds close to the gun in short, dense cover. This led to them being shorter and longer than other spaniels with a rectangular profile and a strong muscular physique. This makes them ideal for not only dense cover but the heavy ground. They are a heavy set breed, weighing between 20-25kgs. They should stand between 15 -16 inches tall. The colour is unique, liver with golden tips. They have a slower, but steady pace and can go all day on the beating line using their exceptional nose. They tend to prefer to go under or through rather than over obstacles.

Characteristics of the Sussex Spaniel

The KC Breed Standard states under Characteristics:  “Natural working ability, gives tongue at work in thick cover”-  this is unique. The origins of the dog-giving tongue are unclear. However, it was most likely that it was encouraged because of the aid it gave to those out shooting. In dense cover, if the dog is making a sound it is easier for the guns to mark where it is, this alerts the gun to a potential flush and from where it will come, giving the shooter every chance of success. We have personally found when attending small shoots that the guns have appreciated the dog making noise before a bird is flushed. However, on the larger shoots, it is not so much required.

Working A Sussex Spaniel

A dedicated group of Sussex owners regularly attend shoots to beat with their Sussex and others rough shoot over their dogs throughout the shooting season. They have a great nose and very rarely miss a bird. Between drives, they are calm and happy to sit quietly and can often be seen having a quick nap – a great difference compared to other spaniels! It gives great pride at the end of the day when the guns become interested in the breed as they have seen them work well.

Training A Sussex Spaniel

The Sussex is a natural hunter. Furthermore, with good and sympathetic training, they can learn to retrieve game. Like all training, it needs to be done at an early age and above all made to be fun. Sussex can have a stubborn streak; if they decide enough is enough you have to be prepared to listen and come back at another time.

About the Sussex Spaniel Association

The Sussex Spaniel Association is committed to maintaining the breed as a working gundog and continues to organize a variety of working and training events throughout the year. This includes an annual Minor Breeds Field Trial one of only two breed clubs that have maintained this commitment.

The Sussex Spaniel Association take pride in the fact that the Sussex remains a true dual-purpose dog and is quite happy in the show ring on one day and equally happy the following day hunting in the field. Currently, there are two full Champions in the breed following their success at Minor Breed Field Trials.

Sussex Spaniel Association Website 

Looking For A New Lead?

Product Review by Joanne Perrott, Founder of the Ladies Working Dog Group

A lead is the one piece of equipment I cannot do without. Whether it’s for teaching a puppy heel, or for walking an older dog in a farmer’s fields, leads are there to ensure our dog’s safety.

And its also one of the things where you get to add your own personal style and flair if you wish. Whether you just want practical, to add a little colour, or to add some elegance, leads are one of the places where you get loads of choices and colours.

I was gifted 2 sets of leads and collars from Tetherleads. As you know integrity in what we share is really important, so in true LWDG style, I have put them through their paces.

For me, the design and feel of the lead are so important: something that is too short, too long, too hard to hold,  or too fiddly are all factors that contribute to a walk or training session feeling a little difficult.

Ella wearing her Tetherlead slip collar.

What Are Tetherleads?

Tetherleads make leads that are beautifully handcrafted in England using the finest Italian leather, solid brass fittings and hand-finished waxed stitching.

The unique design of the lead allows you to adjust the length of the lead and gives you the ability to secure your dog to almost anything.

To use you un-clip the bridle hook at the ‘handle’ end of the lead and wrap it around your chosen anchor point and attach it to the brass eyelets or rings that run the length of the lead at your desired length.

I chose the Oxford set (slip collar and lead) in black to match Buddy, and the Woodstock set in Tan to match Ella.

Their leads are a standard length and come with a 12-month warranty.

 

What Did I Think?

Overall, I totally loved them, and the dogs did too. The ability to tether the dogs to things made life so much easier, especially as my two dogs are litter mates and at the same stage in their training.

For example, In a training session with both Buddy and Ella, I used the leads to tether one to a nearby tree whilst I trained them individually. It was so helpful to have a fast way to clip and unclip into anything in my surroundings – the leads basically acted as a helper wherever I needed them. I also used them on a gate, and a large tree stump and the little links made it so much easier to attach the dog to whatever I needed, including myself to walk hands-free!

In my opinion, both leads are great,  however, the Oxford lead was my favourite. Not only did the lead look really smart, but the quantity of little belt-like holes made adjusting the lead a lot easier. The Woodstock lead has much bigger loops, which I didn’t find as easy to grip or adjust for heel work and training where I needed to keep Ella closer.

Even my husband liked the way the leads could clip anywhere and happily attached Grace ( our older dog) to his rucksack whilst out walking.

I used these leads daily and really appreciated the fact that the leads coped brilliantly in wet weather, water ran straight off and I wasn’t left holding a soaking wet rope.  I grew up riding horses and for me, a leather lead just feels so great to hold, and like a wet rein, it doesn’t slide around.

The quality of the lead itself is immaculate. The stitching is perfect and the clips were strong and durable. It is quick and easy to clean them by wiping them down with a damp wet cloth. My rope leads need regular machine washes with muddy spaniels so the ease of cleaning these is appreciated.

Tetherlead Collars

The leather collars were very smart, the thickness of the leather is beautiful and, not much beats the look of a handcrafted leather collar!

As there is now legislation around dogs wearing a collar with a tag in public places, I  am so glad that these collars felt lightweight for the dogs and were very easy to put on and off so that we could comply with the law. The colours matched the springers beautifully too. I liked the fact that when we were just having a family walk they could wear their collars and I knew they were safe and secure.

The slip collars were great for training, and I liked the fact they were thinner than a normal slip lead as it allowed them to self-adjust easily to keep the dog safe. The slip lead also doubles as a great heeling lead or a steadiness tag.

Both the slip lead and collars work with the leads, making them perfect for a shoot day or a training session.

 

Where Can I Get My Paws On One?!

We know lots of you have already taken advantage of the 15% offer for Society Members and already purchased a Tetherlead. Comment below what you think about them too.

Click the button below to visit our friends at Tetherleads. If you are a society member, there is a Society Exclusive offer.

Once you have your new beautiful lead and collar, please tag us and Tetherleads in your social media photos so we can see how well you get on with them!

Love Jo xx

Take Me To Tetherleads!

Top Tips For Training A Reliable Recall

The Importance Of Reliable Recall.

Reliable Recall is one of the cues your dog has to master. There will be so many times you need your dog to return to you quickly, without hesitation. Recall is essential for all dogs, but even more so for a working dog. Featured Expert Claire Denyer explains the importance of a reliable recall and some steps you can take to improve your dog’s return to you.

The Problems We Face With Poor Recall

It’s important to remember that it is rarely the dog’s fault when things go wrong. It’s pretty common for owners to get over-excited and rush through training a young dog, especially when things appear to be going well. However, if training is rushed or the basics are skipped you may find things start to go wrong later on.

Rose and Dude (two of our current Labradors) have always had a pretty reliable recall, even through adolescence. However, I do remember that Indy’s (the third of our current Labradors) recall seemed to disappear overnight at seven months of age. I remember all too clearly calling John as he had been out with Indy for a rather long time and when he answered the phone he stated: “I’m coming home without the dog” in a rather angry voice. It turned out he had been trying to get her back for 20 minutes and while she hadn’t run away, she was having a wail of a time bouncing around just out of reach. She went back on a long line for a couple of months until we felt confident her recall was solid. She is now nearly nine years old and it was worth it for years of a reliable recall.

Problems You Can Face with Unreliable Recall

A reliable recall will give you the confidence to give your dog more freedom. Dogs who are obsessed with other dogs or people often have a poor recall when distracted. John and I educate our clients about what correct socialisation is and the importance of not letting their dogs run up to other dogs or people. Getting this right will help achieve an excellent and good non-negotiable recall. If you are wondering why we don’t think dogs running up to other dogs or people is a good idea, or why we believe dogs should have a reliable recall, let me explain.

If your dog runs up to a dog who is on a lead it may be on a lead because the dog is nervous or may be aggressive, the dog could be recovering from illness or surgery, it may be in pain, the dog may be in training, perhaps the dog is unpredictable or has a poor recall, the list goes on.

The Dangerous Dog Act

The Dangerous Dog Act 1991 is another reason to not let your dog run up to people. If you cannot recall your dog and he runs up to someone and they feel afraid, you could be reported, and your dog could be deemed dangerously out of control in the eyes of the law.

If your dog is over-friendly or has a poor recall and runs up to people, your dog could be at a greater risk of getting snatched and new puppy owners in particular need to be aware that dog theft is becoming increasingly common.

Incorrect socialisation can create over-friendly dogs who are more interested in other dogs than in the owner. These dogs can become obsessed with other dogs and may pull or lunge on the lead to try to get to the other dog. This can lead to frustration or even aggression.

Here’s the thing, dog-on-dog attacks are on the rise. You wouldn’t believe the number of dogs John sees for behavioural consultations that have been attacked and as a result are now either fearful or aggressive or the number of calls we get from owners whose dogs just won’t recall when other dogs are around and are starting to get themselves into trouble.

If you’ve never witnessed a dog-on-dog attack or had to deal with the aftermath of a dog attack it probably sounds a bit farfetched or even a bit dramatic. It’s not meant to ensure you can control your dog and it’s certainly not cruel to stop your dog from running up to other dogs and people. It could save your dog’s life.

The Solution

Use every opportunity to condition a reliable recall. I find it useful with a puppy to pair the action with the behaviour, so every time the puppy comes running towards you, pair the action being offered with the recall command and make a huge fuss of them once the puppy gets to you.

It is a good idea to start your recall training in non-distracting places and thoroughly proof your recall along with all the other skills.

Remember part of proofing is training in different places and adding distractions. So, teach your dog to recall away from all kinds of interesting things such as people, other dogs, toys etc.

Top Tips for training a Reliable Recall:

  • Recall your puppy for their dinner
  • Recall your puppy when they are already coming toward you (pair the action with the behaviour)
  • Layer up the rewards (this will help prevent your puppy from snatching a treat and running off again)
  • Teach a release cue that gives the puppy/dog permission to leave you after a recall (this too will help prevent your puppy from snatching a treat and running off again)
  • Don’t waste a recall command (if you don’t think your puppy is going to come, don’t call them, go and get them)
  • Don’t repeatedly recall your dog (you are teaching them to ignore you)
  • Set your dog up for success (when training the recall start in low distracting places)
  • Train for everything (distance, duration and distractions)
  • Make recall fun (if your dog enjoys a game of tug, use this to reward your dog)
  • Don’t test your dog, train your recall, and proof your training.

    Need More Help With Your Working Dog

    Join our Free Facebook Community today for help with any of your working dog-related problems. Jam-packed with lovely ladies all ready to give you an answer to your problem. Remember, you’re just one insight away from success!

    JOIN GROUP

Working Out A Dog’s Weight – 5 Great Resources To Help

A question we often see within our society and groups is- “What weight should my working dog be?” or “How do I maintain my dog’s body condition?”.

The answers are not always simple to find as the answer is completely different for each dog. In this blog, we provide you with the links to resources that can help you work out how heavy your working dog should be and how you can maintain it.

golden retriever dog on a scales for weighing
1. The Kennel Club Website

If your dog is a pedigree, then you can find the advised weight for your breed via the Kennel Club website. Within the website, you can also read about your breed’s health and well-being which may be helpful if you are not completely confident about your breed’s traits and health.

The Kennel Club

2. Skinners Website

Skinners have a whole blog series called “Keeping Fido fit, not fat!”, where they look at some of the best ways to maintain your dog in a healthy condition. Their website has lots of useful tips and tricks, including how to help maintain weight on an older dog/puppy. Click the button below to view Skinner’s Advice Centre.

Skinners have also put together a masterclass for the LWDG entitled Keeping Weight On A Working Dog. This can be accessed by Society members using the link below.

Skinners Advice Centre
clumberspaniel
3. BASC

BASC have some great blogs on dog weight, and they also have a lot of information regarding maintaining a dog’s weight all year round. They have many blogs written by experts and even have a blog on getting your dog fit for the season. The link below will take you directly to that blog, but you can navigate from there to different blogs on weight on their website:

BASC Website
4. PetMD

This resource is a healthy calculator for your dog. You put in your dogs condition, current weight, age and breed and the calculator will work out the ideal weight for your dog. Please remember that this is only a guide and will depend on the activity of your dog and how you personally like your dog to look:

PETMD screenshot of website- healthy weight calculator

Pet MD Website

5. The LWDG Blog Post

We did a blog back in 2019 on keeping weight on a working dog which can be difficult, especially as the shooting seasons start. The blog looks at things such as what diet might be best for your dog, frequency of feeding and how to record your dog’s condition:

Click Here To Access 

Need a way to track your dogs weight? Download our FREE Weight Tracker Here! 

Talking Working Dogs On Radio 2 Wales

On Sunday 7th of February 2021, Radio 2 Wales published an interview ‘ Rural Care & The Dog Handler’. LWDG Founder Jo Perrott was interviewed by  BBC Presenter Caroline Evans on Country Focus. Caroline chatted with Jo Perrott about all things working dog!

We would like to thank Caroline and BBC Radio 2 Wales for chatting with us and helping us promote the amazing work of our community further.

The interview can be accessed here, and we have included a transcript of the interview below:

RADIO INTERVIEW ( Will be removed on March 7th 2021) 
Interview Transcription

Back in 2015, a group of women got together to create an online community, offering friendship advice and encouragement to other female working dog owners. Today the lady’s working dog group has developed into a community of over three and a half thousand m women worldwide. But it hasn’t all been a walk in the park. It was founded by Jo Perrott from her home in Cwmdare in the Cannon Valley, and who as a new handler with her dog Grace was looking for help and support at a time in her life when she really needed it

Jo Perrott

 ( sounds of Jo working grace ) Get on Grace. I want her to work the land in front of me. If we were out on an estate, she would be making sure that there weren’t any birds in front of us, or if they were birds and we were pushing them down towards the guns. So she constantly looks back to me. She’s looking at me for guidance which way I wanted to go, what I wanted to do, and making sure that she’s doing a good job of fleshing the birds down, away from us.

Caroline Evans BBC Radio 2 Wales

And she is doing a good job just got a nose to the ground.

Joanne Perrott

In 2010, I was unexpectedly diagnosed with a brain tumour, they found it on a Saturday, very early hours in the morning and on Monday I had just six and a half-hour operation to remove it. I was left out of the hospital four days later, on Christmas Eve in 2010 with 48 staples in my head, all my hair missing and me wondering what had happened.
From the operation, I went on to become epileptic and started having fifth. So I spent a lot of time trying to get my head around the fact I was recovering from an illness I no longer had if that made sense. It caused me to have PTSD, I had severe anxiety, I became quite panicked because you always expect the threat to you to be an external threat. When you find out as an internal threat, and there was nothing you knew about it makes you very aware and very worried about a lot of things. I pulled myself a little bit back together.

And then, I was told that I had grown back, and I just really took my anxiety to a different level because now I was having to deal with an illness that was in my head, and was a type of brain tumour I had meant that they don’t touch unless they need to slow growth when it’s benign. Thankfully, I was told I had the best brilliant tumour you could have. And I basically became almost housebound, I could put on a brave face and go out for a little while but then I would need to get home, I would sit in restaurants and my back to the wall alert noises would frighten me and go really really bad so my dad said you need to get out. So growing up, we’d always hunted on horseback at 18 when I went off to get a job and stuff I sort of come away from the horses, but he continued he broke his back twice. And so he was told he couldn’t do that anymore and that’s when he started working fine as if he couldn’t hunt on horseback he was going to hand another way. So, when I was this bad my dad decided the best thing to do was to get me back out into the outdoors into the fresh air, and he just took me out on Interstate and he gave me this one and said get on with air just enjoy yourself and just have fun and I absolutely loved it I think on that day I walked 11 kilometres. I just enjoy being outdoors and the more I walked the more physical exercise I had the more My mind was wrapped up in making sure she was doing a job, more, I could forget about what I was suffering with.

Caroline Evans BBC Radio 2 Wales
Did you know that there were other women like you out there at the time because your group has grown to 1000s of women now?
 
Joanne Perrott 

So when I went out on the shoot that my dad took me in I knew no one at first,  there was another lady Fiona who was l really absolutely lovely to me, but it was mostly men, and I found over the years and the majority of men are absolutely wonderful and behaved very well in front of me and then as in every walk of life you had a minority who make you feel like you shouldn’t be there but it was a man’s sport.

So, I needed to find other women who had gone through teaching a dog to help me. But then, as the LWDG started growing, we started finding women who are more isolated, and we started finding women who hadn’t been on a shoot or an estate and never do intend to, but they bought a working breed like a spaniel or lab or Pointer, and they just needed help, because working dogs and pets they can be pets, but they’ve got it in their mind from the time they’re born to a job like grace now, although we stand in talk and she’s constantly watching the sky she’s looking for activity.

If somebody’s got a dog like grace in the house and they don’t keep them mentally stimulated. They’ll normally find challenges with them. If they’re not taught properly they will self hunt they will self-reward. And that’s when you get dogs that won’t come back, they will chase sheep they will do all these behaviours that we don’t want to see. So it’s really, really important if you have working dogs that you teach them working commands into dogs tend to narrow working them out in the field so that you can control them and you can have the best out of them. And now they can get the best out of you.

Caroline Evans BBC Radio 2 Wales

So are all the women that you support them online. How does it actually work?

Joanne Perrott
Yeah, we’re all online so we started as a Facebook group, and then we grew and then we realised we needed a little bit more help, I’m not a trainer, I’m working with the dogs going along just like everybody else’s.
So we started getting featured experts who would do a monthly masterclass online for us. And then, in 2019, we did our first live gundog day where we could all meet up, and 2020 was planned to be full of that because we changed the way we worked. Luckily, because we started online we could quite easily stay online. So now we do weekly group coaching sessions, live events online on zoom which can keep us all connected. So what started was me going. Can somebody tell me wants to my dog has become this global thing which
I’m immensely proud our brand remains to be proud of the community because there’s nothing that they can’t ask or nothing that they can’t say the group will guide them towards understanding more about their dogs rather than criticising them for not knowing and in the first place, which I really, really proud of because we’ve shown that you can build a community where people can become really good friends online without having to ever meet in person.
It’s not just about getting the dog to work perfectly, but it’s also about building your confidence where everything to do with the countryside.
I know there’s a lot of sort of no conflict but people are asked, Is there a place for rural sports in our country and your prayers really do think there is because a lot of natural habitats are kept for the purpose of recovering using this manner, and being out in the outdoors and working your dog, I think is probably as close as you’re going to get back to nature.
Like being out with working Grace,  and as it switches it all off, just be me and her constant ‘conversation’ and just enjoy and being outdoors in all weathers
Caroline Evans BBC Radio 2 Wales 
Jo Perrott and her dog grace, and later this month Jo is up for a triumph over adversity award in the RURAL BUSINESS AWARD, and we certainly wish her all the best. That’s it for this week from me Caroline Evans, and the country for cars team. Thank you for listening, and stay safe.

A Year Of Unshakable Success

As the calendar turns over each year, so does the excitement for all that we can accomplish in the new year. I hope you are spending some time this week to plan out what you want to achieve and the barriers to your success.

As the years move forward in the LWDG, I’ve come to realise that as much as you all need the ‘how-to’ of dog training, many of you also need our support on the ‘I do believe I can’ too.

We want you all to have the best year ever with your dogs, so in this masterclass, Tara will be helping you master your mindset ready for the forthcoming year!

She’ll be helping you remove the imposter syndrome holding you back, set some goals and have an epic plan for an amazing year of dog training!

Podcast Edition:

 

Gundog Theft Awareness Week

Gundog Theft Awareness Week starts 31st October 2020

Daily across the LWDG Facebook Groups, we see pleas for help to find a stolen dog, and it’s so incredibly saddening.

Where exactly these stolen dogs end up can be as equally heartbreaking.

If the owner is lucky, the dogs are found and reunited quickly, or another responsible owner purchases them quickly, and at the very least, the dog is cared for once more.

The worst that can happen, the thing we all worry about most, is them ending up somewhere uncared for, used for breeding, and disposed of when they no longer serve a purpose. As a dog owner, even writing that sentence fills me with horror.

But the sad reality is that 2020 has seen a huge rise in the cost of working dog pups, and a startling rise in the theft of working dogs to feed the growing demand. Puppies that once sold for £600 a pup, are now selling for 3-4 times that much, making breeding dogs a new source of income.

So What Can We Do To Protect Our Dogs?

Simple things can make a lot of difference.

  • We all love to post photos of our dogs on our social media, but check if there’s no way your home can be identified from the image, or from other images you may have put up showing where your dog lives.
  • Try not to make people aware of when your home may be empty. A photo of you going ‘out for the night’ can alert thieves your dog is unattended.
  • Don’t leave your dog unattended in the car. Opportunistic thefts are on the increase.
  • 52% of dog thefts are from the garden so make sure your dog is safe. If possible make it difficult for people to see if you or the dog are in the garden.
  • Do not post photos of your litters of pups. It is far easier, and less risky,  for a thief to steal a pup and sell on for quick cash.
  • Make sure your dog’s microchip is up to date. Have you moved, have your contact details changed?
  • Ensure you have physical deterrents to put people off entering your property. Security systems that alert you of movement, whilst showing you a live feed of your dogs can help keep them safe. Outdoor security lighting can also make your home less appealing to access.
  • Don’t encourage your dog to be comfortable with strangers touching them. It can make all the difference when you are out of the home and your dog is off-lead.

Have clear photos of your dog from the front, side, head markings, and unusual markings. If they were to be stolen, having these ready saves time. Include their microchip number on the images.

What Can I Do if The Worse Happens?

Make your dog too hot to handle as quickly as possible.

Contact the police immediately. Also, contact your pet insurer as they may have systems in place to start the search for your dog alongside you.

You can call the police using the phone number -101

You can also contact DOGLOST on their phone number – 0844 800 3220. Their website is also full of information to support and educate you.

In the LWDG FREE FACEBOOK COMMUNITY, we have a lost/stolen thread. Simply type the word stolen into the group search bar, and add your dog into the comments. This alerts the entire group that there is a gundog missing.  Do this across as many other pet/gundog groups that you can post in too.

Sadly many dogs never get reunited with their owners so do as much as you can to prevent the theft.

Useful Links If Your Dog Is Stolen

PET THEFT AWARENESS

DOG LOST

ANTI THEFT TECHNOLOGY 

An Introduction To Understanding Wind Patterns (When Working Non-HPR Breeds) – Part 2

Leanne Smith LEANNE SMITH

Featured Expert, Dogs R Dogs

  • This Blog follows Emma’s Blog on the basics of using the wind, I am going to explore in greater depth the hunting breeds and how wind affects them.

 

This diagram is looking at a perfect theoretical world where a dog is quartering into the wind, travelling in the same basic direction as the handler.

This is a situation in which you would set up with an inexperienced dog so that they had the best chance to locate scent or ‘Strike’ scent and learn how to follow the ‘Scent Cone’ to the source.

The quartering pattern is a more smooth, curving action on the turns but I am a bit restricted in using my Word drawing skills!!!

The best example I have of this is if you are at a showground and it is mid-morning and suddenly, as you are walking along, you smell bacon or coffee, depending on what floats your boat you will instinctively turn towards the smell and follow it to the source, your reward is a bacon sandwich or
the cup of coffee.

Types of Wind

As many of you have probably noticed, the real world differs somewhat to theory and a perfect training set-up.

When you are working or competing with your dog, will need to learn to work in less than perfect conditions. Convention labels the wind direction relative to the handler’s direction of travel

  • Hunting a headwind, with the wind, or into the wind – The wind is directly in the face of the handler as in the diagram above. Using a clock system, with the handler at the centre of the clock, the wind will be coming from 12.
  • Hunting with a cheek wind – The wind is at a slight angle to the handler. Using a clock system, with the handler at the centre of the clock, the wind will be coming from either 10 or 11 on the left; 1 or 2 on the right.
  • Hunting with a Side wind – The wind is at a right angle to the handler. Using a clock system, with the handler at the centre of the clock, the wind will be coming from 9 on the left or 3 on the right.
  • Hunting with a Tail or Back wind – The wind is coming from behind the handler. Using a clock system, with the handler at the centre of the clock, the wind will be coming from 6.

Each of these wind conditions needs a different approach so that your dog will be successful in scenting a bird before ‘bumping’ it, especially important with the pointing and setting breeds.

Scent

Another important element to consider when working with a dog that is hunting for either game or dummies is the scent.

The amount of scent available to your dog depends on many variables. The wind dictates where any scent will end up, but the scent needs to dissolve in moisture in order that your dog will be able to use it. This is why on a hot, dry day your dog may struggle to locate anything until they practically trip over it.

Conversely, on a crisp November morning, as the sun warms the frost on the ground your dog goes bonkers running around overloading on the scent. Overnight lots of ‘critters’ walked around leaving scent frozen in the ground frost. As the sun warms the ground, the frost melts and then evaporates bringing the scent off the ground and into the air for the dog to access.

Now, we have to look at the combination of wind and scent – Does the wind actually have access to the scent? There are barriers that will prevent scent from travelling with the wind.

For example, if a ball or dummy falls into the centre of a dense clump of grass, it will take a long time for the scent to come out of the clump because the wind tends to go around the dense grass rather than through it. In order for a dog to scent that ball, he will need to disturb the clump of grass with his nose in order to come into contact with the scent.

Large obstacles will cause disturbances in the wind called eddies which will also disrupt the movement of scent. When you are setting up exercises for inexperienced dogs, be careful not to put your hunting article near something like a wall or dense hedge as the wind won’t pick up the scent and carry it to your dog.

Another thing to bear in mind is that the movement of the air at ground level may be different to what is happening at your head level.

If you are interested in learning more about how scent and wind affect how a dog can work then spending some time researching the topic will give you a better idea of how best to set your dog up for success and also to realise why your dog may struggle on any given day. Helen Phillips’ book ‘Clicker Gundog’ is a good place to start as there is a useful chapter on hunting.

Breed Type

Another factor that affects how a dog works is the breed type. There are obvious splits, Retriever, Spaniel, HPR, Pointer, and Setter. But within those groups, each breed will vary in how they work, and also, within the breed, individual dogs will vary in the way that they work.

Labradors, Goldens, and Flatcoats all use scent differently when they are working. Equally, you have the busy style of the ESS and Cocker compared to the more deliberate style of the Clumber and Sussex spaniels. 

The HPRs, Pointers, and Setters also differ in styles, from a rangy gallop to a more deliberate style depending on breed type. It goes back to the terrain and job that they were originally bred to do.

If you are working your dog then you can shape your dog’s hunting style to the terrain that you normally work. If you want to compete then you will need to investigate what is the appropriate range and style for your breed and work to encourage that in your dog.

Flushing dogs, generally have a lower head carriage, using the scent within the undergrowth to locate the game. They should be working within half a gunshot (around 5m) of the handler so that when they locate and flush a bird it is within range and can be shot.

HPRs, Pointers, and Setters, generally work with a higher head carriage and range over greater distances because they will point game when they locate the scent and then wait for the gun to approach before the game is flushed for the gun.

Working Different Wind Types

As a handler, we should be there to facilitate our dog’s hunting rather than hinder it, which can happen if we don’t understand how dogs use the wind. Hunting should be a partnership. 

Our job is to define the area to be searched and then keep track of where the dog has been, moving our dog’s search area when appropriate, to ensure that all the ground in the area assigned to us has been searched. Our dog’s job is to locate a scent and follow it to the source. If we are too prescriptive about the pattern that our dog has, then we will hinder the dog from actually telling you when they find the scent in the form of a change in body language.

In general, when a dog ‘Strikes’ scent their pattern will tighten, their tail action may increase and their nose tends to lower. Some dogs have very clear ‘Strike’ behavior whereas other dogs have very subtle changes. When your dog ‘Strikes’ scent it is good to stop moving and let them work out where the scent is going, sometimes it is tricky as the scent is patchy.

If we keep moving at this point, we may pull the dog away from a scent and lose the game. Practising working placed hunting articles helps you to learn how your dog tells you about finding. This is vital information that you need to make note of so that when you don’t know where the game is, you can read your dog and handle it accordingly.

In order for a dog to locate scent, they have to be downwind of the source. If a dog is running with the wind behind him, he is effectively running blind and can ‘Bump’ birds, flushing them without being aware that they are there. This is not so much of an issue with flushing dogs, as they should be close enough to the gun that the game can be shot, however, with the pointing and setting breeds this is a big problem as the game may be flushed out of range of the gun.

We now go back to our perfect theoretical world where the wind isn’t gusting or swinging from one direction to the other or being disrupted by barriers and terrain changes, as happens in the real world.

Once a dog understands how to use the wind, these following adaptations tend to happen naturally, but we can encourage them as we see our dogs working out how best to use the wind.

Head Wind

The original diagram covers how a dog works in the wind.

Cheek Wind

The dog will still be working into the wind but their pattern will be angled relative to the handler’s line of travel.

Side Wind

When your dog is working a side wind, you will need to remain standing at A whilst you send your dog on a downwind leg. The dog then tuns into the wind and quarters back past you working into the wind an appropriate distance for that beat.

You then move forward to stand at B and repeat the process, moving forward to C when your dog has completed his downwind run and then quartered into the wind again. This minimises the chance of your dog ‘Bumping’ a bird. The size and range of this pattern will be determined by the breed type and terrain.

The pointing breeds need more latitude when working a Sidewind and a Back wind as they pretty much find the best way to work the area on their own. They are cast off and then range, finding their way back to working up into the wind. This can be scary at first as it may seem like they have gone off self-employed which is why it is good to go to an experienced trainer when you are getting
your pointing breed started so that you understand what is ‘normal’ for your breed. The dog will basically be doing a similar pattern to the diagrams but you may need to handle it slightly differently.

Back Wind

The handler remains stationary at A. The dog sends out down wind, as far as required, he then turns and quarters back into the wind towards the handler. Both handler and dog then relocate to B and repeat.

Again, this will minimise the chance of ‘bumping’ a bird. The size and range will be determined by breed type.

In Conclusion

Hopefully, this has given you a bit more information on how hunting dogs will work with different wind conditions and why we need to educate ourselves about wind, terrain, and scent. The diagrams are the theoretical best-case situations, which will never happen in the real world!

However, I hope that you have a better idea of what is happening when you see your dog change his pattern to keep working the wind. Learn to read your dog, and, as you practice together learn to trust that your dog knows what he is doing. Keep building towards a partnership where your dog will hunt where you ask him to, and you can let him work that area the way that he feels is best. Most important – have fun together

An Introduction To Understanding Wind Patterns (When Working Non-HPR Breeds) – Part 1

WRITTEN BY EMMA STEVENS

 

Join Featured Expert EMMA STEVENS OF CUNNINGSHOT DOG TRAINING for a great introduction video on wind patterns and direction. This video covers what you need to take into account when training working dogs.

Emma discusses the different kinds of wind and also how these wind directions will affect the wind pattern of your dog.

This video builds from the live group conversation on wind directions and patterns in our virtual fortnightly Zoom and FACEBOOK GROUP  Society Members Lounge of Ladies Working Dog Group.

In the ‘Dog and Duck’,  Society members get together to discuss the wins and challenges they are facing with their working dogs, and as a mastermind group, we help handlers come up with possible ideas to move their training and dog forward.

All Society Members are welcome and you can BECOME A MEMBER HERE.

Below are photographs of the sheets Emma uses in this video for you to download.

Wind Sheet LWDG

Wind Retrieve Sheet Emma Stevens

The second part of this article can be found here