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Cold Pressed Dog Food Explained

So, what is Cold Pressed Dog Food?

When it comes to Cold Pressing dog food, the main aim is to deliver the convenience of dried kibble food, in a food that has nutritional benefits which are as close as possible to a raw food diet.

This is done by gently heating the ingredients at just 55-65 degrees Celsius. Doing this allows us to keep the nutritional value intact.

Delicate vitamins, minerals and omegas are preserved.  Proteins remain unaltered and starches are kept as easily digestible as possible.

Some ingredients are pre-treated at slightly higher temperatures, in order to ensure that the food meets all health and safety requirements and so that your dog can eat it safely, and you can handle and store it.

Once mixed, these gently warmed ingredients are pressed very briefly and chopped up into nutritionally rich pellets.

Another thing to note is the type of ingredients that are used.  Given the low temperatures, it’s not possible to Cold Press ‘fresh’ ingredients, especially animal proteins.  Instead, we use a super-concentrated protein called ‘meat meal’.  Meat meal historically has a terrible reputation which comes from many years of it being used as a generic term to describe animal protein ingredients that were…shall we say less than appetising?

These days though, meat meal comes in various levels and a high-quality meal is an incredible ingredient!  Here in the UK, a top-quality meat meal (also known as ‘dried ground meat or fish’) is absolutely packed with protein that is extremely easy to digest.

Also, because the ingredient is already classed as dry and therefore has a very low moisture content, the % you see on the back of our packet is the % your dog is actually getting from quality cold-pressed food.

 

Why is all this so important?

It’s all about digestibility….the more digestible a portion of food is, the easier it is for your dog to absorb all of the nutrients that they need.  It also means that Cold Pressed dog food is gentle on your dog’s tummy.

One of my absolute favourite things about this type of food is how easily it breaks down in water (and stomach acid!).  A Cold Pressed pellet won’t expand when moisture is added.  Instead, it starts to break down naturally.  This is fantastic for doggy digestion, helping to prevent ‘bloat’ and also ideal if you like to vary how your dog’s meals are served.  Fancy adding a bit of gravy in your dogs today?  No problem, just add some dust from the bottom of the bag and pour in some warm water.  Leave to sit for a couple of minutes until cool, give it a quick stir and there you go.  Fancy giving your dog a frozen treat? Pop a few pellets in hot water and set them aside.  When it’s cool, give it a quick stir, pour it into a mould and put it in the freezer. A delicious icicle is ready to be devoured in a few short hours.

I could talk about the awesomeness of Cold Pressing for days…but this blog post is already longer than planned!  So I’ll leave you by saying that since we’ve switched to cold-pressed food, the benefits in our own dogs are clear to see, including (and sorry to get technical here…) much more pick-able poos thanks to those super digestible ingredients!

Not only that, but on a personal note, I love knowing that the ingredients I see are the ingredients I feed.  Unaltered by temperature or moisture reduction.  After more than a year of research into the technology and how it affects ingredients, and nine years researching canine diets, working with a fantastic nutritionist along the way…I am so incredibly excited to have finally launched my business!

Rùn, Cold Pressed Dog Food

All our current and new recipes are formulated grain-free, with single source animal proteins, making them even easier to digest.  And all of Rùn’s recipes contain my specially designed ‘joint premix’ with Glucosamine and Chondroitin, to help support hard-working joints.

I’m also proud that my brand Rùn is one of a very small handful of dog food brands that upholds a commitment to absolutely no single-use plastics.  Gentle on tummies, gentle on the environment, Rùn is food for paws and the planet.

Special Offer For Readers 

10% off the medium and large bags if purchased via the website

Discount code – LWDG

WWW.RUNDOGFOOD.COM

Using Raw As A Working Dog’s Diet

Providing the best-balanced diet for your working dog can be daunting. There are so many different options out there that promote many different benefits, it can quite easily become overwhelming. We spoke to our friends at RAWGEOUS PET FOOD CO. who gave us their best tips and tricks for finding the best raw diet for your working dog.

Many of us have questions about our dog’s diets:

What does a balanced diet mean in dog terms? Does diet really make a difference to a dog’s health, happiness and performance? How do a working dog’s lifestyle and breed affect its nutritional requirements? Is raw the choice for me? Lorraine Sweeney from Rawgeous Pet Food Co. will try to answer some of those, but first, let’s start with the basics …

What Do We Mean By A “Working Dog”?

The true definition of a working dog is broader than the FCI and the Kennel Club’s ‘group 2’ classification which focused on larger dogs ranging from the Alaskan Malamute through to the Tosa, including a lot of Mastiff or Mastino breeds. These dogs typically weigh between 75 lbs (34kg) – 160 lbs (74kg). However, the description of a working dog isn’t really determined by its breed specification under the kennel club, but by its breed’s original intended use.

Ask yourself the simple question: “Was my dog’s original breed meant as a companion pet or designed to do a specific job?” If it had a ‘job’ or purpose, it is a ‘working dog’.

Here are some obvious examples of working dogs (note the crossovers in breed types):

Types Of Working Dog

Shepherding Dogs: All Collies and Sheepdogs, German and Belgian Shepherds, Cattle Dogs, Anatolian and Caucasian Shepherds, Tibetan Mastiffs

Protection and Police Dogs: Mastiffs, German and Belgian Shepherds, Rottweiler, Doberman, Bullmastiff.

Hunting Dogs (including sight and scent hounds): Wolfhounds, Labrador and Golden Retrievers, Deerhounds, Pointers, Spaniels, Beagles, Foxhounds. Hunting Dogs (other): All terriers.

Nordic and Spitz Type: Huskys, Malamutes, Japanese, Finnish and Norwegian Spitz breeds.

Water Dogs: Retrievers, Newfoundlands, Portuguese Water Dogs, Some Spaniels, Poodles

As you can see working dogs include a wide variety of breed types and nutritional requirements will vary greatly depending on a dog’s size as well as its level of activity. With all working dogs you will get a LOT of energy in the growing phase, but don’t be daunted by that. By and large (with the exception of some terrier breeds) working dogs are alert, smart and therefore very trainable and with the right training, they can be a happy, loving part of your family.

Feeding Nutrition Using A Raw Diet To A Working Dog:

There are a few things to consider in feeding raw food to working dogs. As with all dogs: size, age, maintenance weight and level of activity will influence their appetite and nutritional requirements. An active working dog will not only need enough food to maintain energy and performance levels but the right kind of food.

What to Look for in dog food: It is crucial that your dog’s diet contains the right balance of high-quality ingredients to meet its nutritional needs.

Dogs are hypercarnivores. They survive in the wild by hunting prey and eating it whole. At times they will consume berries, leaves and whole vegetables. Their digestive system was designed for a diet primarily based on raw meat with a careful balance of fat and omega oils, calcium and probiotics to maintain gut health. Marrying these properly is the key to a happy, healthy dog.

If you want your dog to be it’s healthiest and happiest, we would recommend a raw pet food diet made with the highest quality premium cuts of fresh meat, mixed with bones and a small amount of offal alongside a balance of vegetables and natural supplements

Here’s a simple introduction that Rawgeous Pet Food Co. has put together to how to ensure the best diet for your working dog:

Step 1. Feed your Dog Raw:

Bioavailability:

Working dogs are designed to find nutrition quickly whilst on the go and then get back to work quickly. Nutrition should be in the freshest, most easily digestible form to ensure it is easily absorbed and available to the animal.
Here’s a comparison in human terms: We take supplements to boost our vitamin levels. But we know that it would be better for us to eat a diet full of fruit and vegetables that are naturally high in vitamins? When we eat an orange, for example, the vitamin C is found in its natural form, quickly digestible but crucially stored alongside gut-friendly dietary fibre and a particular mix of antioxidants and vitamins including calcium, folic acid, magnesium, B vitamins and minerals that protect against diseases and boost your immune system.

When dogs eat fresh meat and bones, their system processes essential proteins, omega oils, fats, and vitamins quickly in their purest form and refuels their body on the go, as they were designed to do by nature.

It is also critical to understand that dogs are designed to get 70-80% of their moisture through the food they eat, not their water bowl. If your dog is fed and walked / otherwise stimulated but still seems anxious and restless this may be because of dehydration. How restless are you when you are thirsty?

Muscle Growth and Maintenance

The thing all working dogs need to have is strong muscles, to enable them to work for long periods of time. Whether pulling, hunting, retrieving, or shepherding working dogs need their strength and endurance. They are true canine athletes and again if we look at our human athletes it is easy to see why a well-balanced, highly nutritious diet is critical.

Modern sports science recognises that fresh, healthy, perfectly balanced meals are key to performance. Over-reliance on supplements can lead to injury and failure. For dogs to have strong muscles, but more importantly to have a good ligament and skeletal structure to support the work of these muscles, they must have a diet based on fresh high-quality protein, fresh bones and the right balance of vegetables and natural supplements. Dogs can survive on meat and bone alone, but for optimal nutrition, we need more from a raw diet.

Step 2: Supplement Naturally

Meat, bones and offal are the staples of good dog food, but natural supplements will ensure a dog has optimal nutrition. These include:

  • Fish Oils: that support joint growth and maintenance, tendon and ligament strength.
  • Vegetables and Fruit: When shredded and minced these provide essential vitamins and minerals which help nutrient absorption.
  • Seaweeds: These are natural probiotics promoting gut health.
    Kefir: Nature’s best prebiotic

With a balanced diet of raw meat and the correct supplements, you can power your dog from the inside out.

Step 3: Read the label

Here are things to look out for if you want to understand what’s really in your Dog’s Dinner:

  • The Ingredient List: Does it just say ‘chicken’? Or does it give a part of the chicken? or is it a chicken byproduct (such as a meal).
  • Percentages: Does it clearly state the percentage of each ingredient?
    Additives/Preservatives: What are they and what use are they to your dog?
    Where are the ingredients from? Farm / Supplier / Source.
  • Quality and Transparency are key. The more information a producer gives you the better.
labrador with Rawgeous pet food boxes

How Much Should I Be Feeding My Dog(s)?

Once you’ve followed steps 1 – 3 and you’ve found a high-quality, balanced raw pet food from a producer that you trust, you can work out exactly how much to feed your dog.

  • Weight: Raw/Fresh guidelines suggest 2% of a dog’s body weight as a maintenance
    feed,
  • Puppies: Raw / Fresh guidelines suggest a daily maintenance feeding level of 5% for a puppy – a slight percentage than for an adult because a puppy is growing fast.
  • Activity: If your dog has a high level of activity e.g. if it’s working (whether on the farm, retrieving or hunting) you will need to feed more than the maintenance feeding level. So feed 3% of the dog’s weight for active working dogs.
  • Above all, always remember that you should feed to condition. (Condition is a small layer of fat on the lower ribs).

Introducing Raw

It can seem daunting introducing a new diet, for you and for your dog. Transitioning to raw may not be an instant win. To a dog who is used to kibble or processed food, a pure, natural diet rich in probiotics and proteins will challenge its digestive system, so an initial period of loose stools or upset stomachs is normal. That’s just the dog’s tummy adapting to the new diet and things will soon settle down.

Handling raw might also seem challenging but to provide it is high-quality meat, with rigorous testing protocols and it has been stored in your freezer until you’re ready to use it. Then you can treat it just as you would any raw meat you’re preparing for a meal. Take the meat from the freezer the night before you feed, defrost the meat thoroughly in the fridge, wash your hands before and after handling, clean any surfaces where you have placed the raw meat, and clean the dog’s bowl after they have finished the meal. You’ll run more risks preparing the chicken for a Sunday roast!

Visible Benefits of Raw

Feeding your dog a diet that it was designed to eat in the wild will quickly have visible benefits. Your dog will have a glossier coat, cleaner teeth, smaller stools, stronger muscles, and brighter eyes, and that is just what is easily measurable.

The immeasurable is in their temperament. Well-fed dogs are less anxious and calmer; easier to train and to settle into a work routine. You will notice higher levels of energy and strength, but perhaps most importantly for every owner, you will see a happier dog at home.

Quite simply: A happy dog starts with a healthy gut.

Still Need A Helping Paw?

If you still have questions or concerns about feeding raw, transitioning to a raw pet food diet, or the right quantities to feed a puppy or adult, you can contact the team at Rawgeous Pet Food. They’re available 24/7 to advise on any aspect of your dog’s diet, training or development. They’d be happy to help. Click the button below to visit their website:

CLICK HERE

Your Dogs Welfare During Times Of Isolation

Featured Expert : Claire Denyer LWDG Group EXPERT: CLAIRE DENYER
Your Dogs Welfare During Times Of Isolation

 

Our amazing Group Expert and Qualified Dog Trainer Claire Denyer takes us through some of the most frequently asked questions that we may face in the weeks ahead as our dogs face isolation. 

At the beginning of 2020, it was flooding, and now it’s a pandemic! But it could be a sprained ankle or some other event that makes it difficult at times for us to take our dogs outdoors.

Claire has also created a bonus course to help guide us through how we can look after our dogs when we don’t have our normal level of access to the outdoors.

Are Puppies Affected By Isolation?

A question that’s coming up a lot is…How will the social distancing guidelines affect socialisation training with my new puppy?

Firstly puppies don’t need to meet every person or dog to be socialised. In fact, puppies who meet every person and dog, they see can end up obsessed by other dogs and people. This can lead to issues I’ll come back to later.

Correct socialisation includes environmental training which can really help build your dog’s confidence and doesn’t have to include meeting people or dogs.

You see, socialisation is such a misunderstood word in dog training.

We are constantly contacted by people wanting to bring their pups to classes to play with other dogs, their rescue dogs to classes to meet other dogs and learn to play with other dogs, and even dogs with behavioural problems to classes to socialise them around calm dogs.

Our classes are not for any of the above. Our classes are designed to educate the owners on how to train their dogs and get the best out of their dogs. Our classes are designed to help owners learn skills to help them train their dogs for life. Our classes are to educate the owners on how to keep their dogs safe. In our classes, dogs are learning skills, and, how to relax and focus on their owners in the presence of other dogs and people.

John and I educate our clients about what socialisation is, and, the importance of not letting their dogs run up to other dogs. The same applies to people.

Here’s why…

I want my dogs focused on me, rather than on other dogs or other people.

Another thing I want from my dogs is a reliable recall. Why?

There are several reasons for not letting your dog run up to other dogs or people here are just a few examples…

If your dog runs up to a dog who is on a lead it may be on a lead for one of these reasons: maybe the dog is nervous, may be aggressive, the dog could be recovering from illness or surgery, it may be in pain, the dog may be in training, perhaps the dog is unpredictable, or, has a poor recall, the list goes on…

The Dangerous Dog Act is another reason to not let your dog run up to people. If you cannot recall your dog and he runs up to someone and they feel fearful, you could be reported and your dog could be deemed dangerously out of control in the eyes of the law.

Dog theft is on the rise. If your dog is over-friendly or has a poor recall and runs up to people your dog could be at a greater risk of getting snatched

Incorrect socialisation can create “over-friendly” dogs who are more interested in other dogs than in the owner. These dogs can become obsessed with other dogs and may pull or lunge on the lead to try to get to the other dog. This can lead to frustration or even aggression.

Here’s the thing, dog on dog attacks are on the rise. You wouldn’t believe the number of dogs John sees for behavioural consultations that have been attacked and as a result, are either fearful or now aggressive, or, the number of calls we get from owners whose dogs just won’t recall when other dogs are around and are starting to get themselves into trouble.

If you’ve never witnessed a dog-on-dog attack or had to deal with the aftermath of a dog attack it probably sounds a bit far-fetched or even a bit dramatic.

It’s not meant to ensure you can control your dog. It’s not cruel to stop your dog from running up to other dogs and people. It could save your dog’s life.

Socialisation done correctly includes getting your dog used to and comfortable around sounds, sights, activities, and objects he or she may come across in their lives. It should also include teaching your dog how to behave and relax around various places, dogs and people. It does not mean letting your dog play fight with other dogs or jump up on people.

So, with this in mind, there’s no reason why we can’t socialise puppies or dogs whilst abiding by the government’s social distancing guidelines.

Is Now A Good Time To Buy A Puppy?

It may seem like the ideal time to get a puppy as you are likely to be home a lot more…

In some respects this is true, however, bear in mind this current routine isn’t permanent.

Although you’ll have time more time to train your puppy, do consider how you will also get him/her used to your normal lifestyle to help prevent problems later on.

This advice also goes for adult dogs who are going to quickly adapt to you being at home more.

So, try to include enforced periods of separation from your puppy or dog to help them grow up to be confident in their own skin as well as a part of our pack.

We recommend at least 1 hour alone in the house (or crated) even if this is why you are in another room or in the garden, or even whilst exercising another household dog.

If you allow your puppy or dog to spend every minute of the day with you during this time they are much more likely to develop separation anxiety when routines go back to normal.

What Can I Do To Help My Dog with isolation?

Everyone needs to be sensible and should follow the Government’s advice. With regards to social distancing, we believe this is a good thing for training your dog.

If everyone who is out with their dogs seriously adheres to the social distancing guidelines you should be given plenty of space to train your dog without being harassed by unruly dogs.

Dogs with a poor recall should be kept on a lead until they have a reliable recall.

Whilst those not in self-isolation may still be able to use public places like parks to walk and train your dogs you will probably find it therapeutic as well as good for your dog.

Environmental training is something which can be great for building your dog’s confidence and keeping you both focused.

For those in self-isolation there are plenty of indoor training opportunities such as teaching your dog to settle, position transitions, and perfecting heel work…we will be sharing lots of ideas over the coming days, weeks and months

As dog trainers, we believe people will need our support just as much now as ever. 

Could Isolation Be A Positive Time For My Dog?

Now could be a great time! Build or strengthen the relationship with your dog during this time through appropriate and meaningful training.

Whether you are self-isolating or still able to walk your dog in public places whilst adhering to the government’s social distancing guidelines, you can use this time to work on some really important parts of training your dog.

Through appropriate training, you will strengthen the relationship between you and your dog and this will help your dog get through life as a much happier and calmer dog.

Environmental training is so important for your dog.

During your dog’s life, he or she will be put in environmental situations which will test their behaviour and temperament. The human world is not a natural environment for a dog.

Environmental training includes getting your dog used to new and unfamiliar areas, varied surfaces, training environments, sounds, and space…the list goes on and on.

So, during this time of self-isolation and/or social distancing why not get creative and do some environmental training with your dog…

Stay Safe! Much Love

Claire xx

You may also be interested in our course:  Your Dogs Welfare During Times Of Isolation

3 Promises You Will Be Glad We Made To You

Joanne Perrott - FounderJOANNE PERROTT – FOUNDER 

 

I’m writing this blog after what has been one of my saddest and happiest days as the Founder of the LWDG.

Yesterday I was sent so many emails by members in response to an email I sent to our community… The replies were full of the stories of ladies who were too scared to ask for help with their working dog anymore.

After what can only be described as terror stories, where other women or men, or even ‘trainers’ had belittled them, these women have lost their self-confidence to a point where they felt that the shooting community isn’t a nice place to be. I can’t share their replies, but I wanted to share the email they responded to.

Whilst the replies contained horrific encounters these ladies had endured, all of them ended with huge appreciation and thanks for the ladies they had found in the LWDG, ladies who support them and encourage them.

We have a mantra that there is no such thing as a stupid question. So please, if you’re struggling, know we are here to help! And if you are reading this right now, and KNOW of someone who needs to read it, please send it to them so they know they are not alone!

To whoever reads this and needs to hear this right now…

Let us not beat around the bush. As some of you may know, I’m not a gun dog trainer. In fact, the Ladies Working Dog Group was created because I wanted to find support in learning how to train my dog as I was a totally pants newbie lol!

I’ve learnt a lot over the 5 years, but I still wouldn’t class myself as an expert, However, with the community, we have created I don’t feel I need to be an expert in order to help others.

In creating the LWDG, we have a community that helps ladies to become more confident and competent female working dog handlers, whilst also helping them build their self-confidence.

Today, I will be sharing why your voice in our community is important. If you’re a silent stalker right now (yeah, we see you lol!) we want to encourage you to get involved in our mission to help ladies laugh and learn throughout their dog training journey. We don’t want any poor lonely ladies trying to train a working dog alone with no help or support…

Yeah, I admit, that was slightly overdramatic! But I’m tugging on your heartstrings a bit, as I want you to feel your voice can, and should contribute to our community conversation.

Whether you have been a member for a day, or since the beginning, what you have to say matters to us. We are all learning from one another daily.

The thing is, dog handling is NOT suitable for everyone. It’s bloody hard that’s the truth.

But I know of so many ladies who were really interested in dogs and wanted to learn… but they never got anywhere because they did not feel like they should ask a question, or make a comment, they didn’t think they would ‘fit in’.

They were so put off by the attacks people undergo when asking ‘stupid questions’ in life, or on social media, that they decided that they didn’t want any part of it… and to be honest I don’t blame them.

Right at the start a met one or two ‘gentlemen’ who were quite vocal in their thoughts I shouldn’t be out working dogs…Had I not found all of you, I would have probably given up too.

After talking to dozens of our most successful customers, I have distilled the 3 main reasons why anyone would want to be part of our community. And it’s not what you imagine!

In fact, the reasons were so amazing we decided they should be part of our agreement with you.

We promise to always provide:

1. We will provide you with a safe, ladies-only community to ask questions about anything working dog related. No question will be silly and no negative criticism will be given to you.

2. We will support your learning journey by providing monthly learning videos created by experts in our field to help you grow your dog handling skills and your self-confidence, and by giving you access to a community of supportive, like-minded women.

3. We will provide you with resources and events to help you have fun and find friendships with other LWDG Members.

What about you? Do any of these resonate with you?

I want you to get real clear on your reason(s) behind why you want to be part of the LWDG. Let us not talk about superficial reasons. I want you to dig deep to truly figure out what you want to gain.

You may realise at the end of the day that our community isn’t for you, and that’s okay. But if you realise that the LWDG is something you are interested in being part of, we are here to walk this journey with you!

So let me know… what’s your personal WHY for wanting to be part of the LWDG?

Why are YOU interested in dog training? Why would YOU like to achieve results?

I truly don’t think that it’s a coincidence that you are here. Hit reply and let me know…

Much Love,

Jo xx

 

A tiny request: If you liked this post, please share this?

I know most people don’t share because they feel that communities don’t need their “tiny” social share. But here’s the truth…

I built this society piece by piece, one small share at a time. Then others joined, and they shared too and will continue to do so. So thank you so much for your support, our readers.

A share from you would seriously help a lot with the growth of this community.

Some great suggestions:
– Pin it!
– Share it to your personal profile + Facebook group
– Tweet it!

It won’t take more than 10 seconds of your time. The share buttons are right here. Sharing is caring as they say, so lets show the ladies out there working dogs that we do care and we are here for them.

Increase Your Success Using Values-Driven Dog Training

Joanne Perrott

Founder of The LWDG, Author and Certified Success Trainer.

Have you ever thought about how your dog training success is achieved in your mind?

There are many different styles of dog training across the world. Depending on the dog’s function, how and what we train changes to suit our needs, the environment, the dogs and our preferences.

After many years of learning different approaches and watching the challenges faced by the Ladies Working Dog Group Members, I feel there is room for a new type of dog training. One that combines the needs of the dog, the end function, and the needs and values of the owner, who, in my belief, has been absent in the dog training world’s focus. 

When we purchase a dog, we spend so much time thinking about how and what we are to train them. And there can be so much we need to do. But we don’t stop thinking about who we have to become as a person to achieve those goals. 

The idea of a values-driven dog training is one where both the dog’s development and the owner’s development are intertwined in a way where the owner works on themselves as much as they do their dog training.

What Is Values-Driven Dog Training?

Each person has a set of values from which they try to live their life. When they are living within their values, life feels happy. When they go against these values, they think out-of-whack and can handle a range of negative emotions.

When we train a dog, our individual values of who we believe we are or what we think we can do are internally questioned, and this is where our frustration can emerge.

Self-Reflection

“By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest.” –

CONFUCIUS

 

Self Reflection is a skill we all need but gives very little time to develop. It’s fundamentally required within our lives, yet sadly it’s not incorporated.

How can we achieve what we want in our dog’s training (or indeed our life) if we have spent no time dedicated to setting out our desires, aims and ambitions? How can we tell if we are on or off track? Reflective learning also helps us work out what went well and what needs tweaking.

It allows us to do it from a place of non-judgement, so we can learn and grow in line with our values, rather than feel frustration and guilt.

Balance in Values-Driven Dog Training

When values and balance are discussed in the human world, it is usually in the context of people considering other people.

This, too, has a place in our dog training where we consider the dog’s needs. This form of exercise has its own widely recognised name Positive Dog Training, and it’s one part of values-based dog training we are mostly already embracing.

Maybe in part, this is due to us happily supporting the needs and wants of another life form but not wanting to identify and address the wants and needs of our internal desires.

To meet our internal values, the needs of the dog are always to be included. This is paramount for the dog’s welfare but also for our own.

We doubt our values when we are asked to do something in training that we don’t feel is aligned with how we want to treat our dogs.

The role of our Self-Confidence

“It’s not who you are that holds you back, its who you think you are not”

UNKNOWN

 

Reading through most of the messages I get from LWDG members; they regularly fall into two main themes. One is thanking the LWDG for boosting a person’s confidence; the second is a desperate plea for help with their dog where they have lost all belief and self-confidence to achieve their goals, aims and ambitions.

There is, without doubt, a massive need for our self-confidence to be addressed, as much as there is a knowledge of how to train our dogs.

Much dog training is done in isolation, and as such, we have very little in the way of ‘cheerleaders’ to support us on our training journey. When we are alone, it is straightforward for self-doubt to creep in and rob us of all our hope.

Working on our self-confidence needs to be a continuous and never-ending effort. Like a mobile phone battery, our faith, if left uncharged, will dwindle and die.

If we are actively dog training and seeing results, this can recharge us. However, if it’s going wrong, this speeds up the loss of confidence until we lack all will to train and may even give up altogether.

We must work on our self-confidence away from our physical dog training. This can improve our mindset and, ultimately, our success.

Lastly Gratitude…

While gratitude may appear at the end of my blog post today, it’s undoubtedly the most essential of any part of values-driven dog training.

If we train from a place of gratitude, we begin with a happy and humble state of mind.

Suppose right now, as you read this, in your mind (or out loud),  you thank your dog for wanting to work with you. In that case, you thank your job for giving you the money to pursue your hobby,  you congratulate the gamekeeper on their hard work all season preparing the game,  you thank the land owner for allowing you access, and you thank the people who have taught you what you know to date. Finally, thank yourself for being kind and patient with yourself and your dog whilst learning together; if you do all this thinking, how do you feel? Do you somehow feel calmer and more optimistic about life? 

Think what would happen if you spent a few moments before each training session doing this. Do you think it would change your approach and attitude?

Gratitude has a way of appeasing all our values in one go. It brings them all to a place of calmness we need before training. Its role in life is far more fundamental than we give credit for.

The concept of thanking someone is based on gratitude, and embracing its power can be life-altering.  

Thank you for reading this 🙂

This post is written in the hope that it will allow you, the person still reading, the strength and courage to believe you CAN reach your goals.

Using this knowledge, spend more time on yourself than your dog training, and you will achieve results you didn’t think possible.

Comment below how you feel about the idea of Values-Driven dog training. Do you agree that this approach can improve your results?

Much Love

Jo xx 

Indoor Training Exercises For Working Dogs

Indoor Training Exercises For Working Dogs & Gundogs

With Storm Ciara ( and now Storm Eunice) keeping many of us in our homes, Featured Expert Claire Denyer from FAMILY DOG SERVICES has stepped in to help with indoor training exercises we can enjoy.

Storm Eunice has us all cooped up inside, but that doesn’t mean our dogs can’t get a good workout! Featured Expert Claire Denyer has stepped in to help with 4 free videos on indoor training exercises for working and gun dogs.

Training Ideas For You And Your Dog

Below is a collection of videos to give us some indoor training options that we can enjoy with our dogs.

These videos can be useful for rainy days, days that are too hot to train on, and, can help when working with dogs that are easily distracted outside.

Claire’s top indoor training ideas

Dogs need exercising every day so owners want to exercise them. But it’s not always easy to go outdoors due to weather or illness. Claire has some great ideas for indoor training exercises that will keep your dog happy and healthy!

-Improving heel position

-Position transition training

-Hold and delivery of the dummy

Plus teaching your dog to do useful things like packing the training bag, and assisting with carrying washing to the machine!

Here’s 4 great videos from Claire for you to enjoy…

Some Indoor Basic Training Including Position Transitions and Holds

Some basic Indoor Training exercises Including Obedience And Holds

Further Indoor Training Exercises

Push The Button – Indoor Training EXercise

Now that you’ve seen some great indoor training exercises from Featured Expert Claire Denyer, it’s time to get started! Whether you’re trying one of the exercises for the first time or revisiting an old favourite, make sure to consider your dog’s individual needs. Dogs need plenty of exercise every day, so getting in a good workout even when the weather is bad is essential. Be sure to check out our resources for more tips and advice on how to train your working dog.

Preparing Game Birds For The Table

This week we celebrate THE GREAT BRITISH GAME WEEK 2019!  With the season in full swing, and Christmas around the corner, now is a great time to prepare game birds from your shoot for your dinner table.

The rule in our home when shooting game is ‘if you took part in killing it, then you take part in eating it’. I’ve brought our children up to know that it is important that the animal is used as food to ensure its life didn’t end for sport alone.

But how exactly do you prepare pheasant, duck, grouse, quail or partridge?

I’ve scoured the internet for the best videos I could find to help you prepare your game birds. I hope this helps you to prepare your game birds and feed your families.

Much Love

Handy Items For Preparing And Trussing Game Birds :

HEAVY DUTY GAME SHEARS 

You will find Heavy Duty Poultry Shears really handy. These ultra-sharp stainless steel kitchen scissors with professional blades and spring-loaded handle are perfect for game birds. These ones I found online for £10.88 with free delivery. You can purchase them HERE

COOKING STRING 

If you wish to truss your bird, then you will need cooking string. This red and white string looks pretty, and it’s easy to find on your bird.  This string can be purchased HERE on Amazon.  It’s £7.99  with free delivery for 328 feet! That should keep you going….

Pheasant Preparation

Duck Preparation

Grouse Preparation

Quail Preparation

Partridge Preparation

Free Download

Head over to our member’s area and download this exclusive awesome Game Nutrition Fact Sheet!  Pop on your fridge so you can quickly and easily find the nutrition information for some of our greatest game meat.

Question Of The Week

What’s your favourite game bird to eat? Pop your answers in the comments below

How To Make Shoot Day Sloe Gin Truffles

Guest Post: Min FlemingtonGuest Post: Min Flemington

LWDG Member

How To Make Shoot Day Sloe Gin Truffles

Imagine our delight when LWDG member Min Flemington shared this awesome recipe with the group!

This is a great way to use leftover sloes after making and decanting your sloe gin. It can also be used with damson gin, damson brandy, cherry brandy or any berry containing liqueur. This versatile recipe also allows you to experiment with different types of chocolate, giving you various truffles.

Ingredients –

  • 75ml double cream
  • 25g unsalted butter
  • 225g 54% cooking chocolate
  • 2 tbsp sloe gin
  • 1 tsp glycerine (not essential)
  • 75g stoned sloes

To finish –

  • 150g very good high-quality cooking chocolate
  • chopped roast hazelnuts/cocoa powder

Method –

  1. Line a large flat tin with baking parchment.
  2. Melt butter and cream slowly in a pan, bring to boil, stirring constantly. Boil very gently for 1 min and remove from heat.
  3. Break up the chocolate and add to the cream mixture. (Don’t do this immediately while it’s still close to boiling, or it won’t set later – wait a minute or so) Stir till melted, then mix in sloes and gin, and the glycerine for a smoother mix.
  4. Pour mix into the tin (or use truffle moulds) and allow to chill 2 hours in the fridge.
  5. Break off small amounts of the mixture and roll them into balls, or if you used a truffle mould, pop the truffles out.
  6. Chill for another 30 mins.
  7. To finish the truffles, melt the 150g of high-quality cooking chocolate slowly in a bowl over a pan of water. Dip the balls in melted chocolate on a fork or spoon and let the excess chocolate run off. Add nuts to finish.
  8. Place truffles in small paper / petit four cases. Put them back in the fridge.

It makes about 30 truffles, so if you wish, you can double quantities and make a mix of milk and dark chocolate. They can last approx two weeks in the fridge if they don’t all get eaten at the shoot!

The chocolate finish above can melt quickly in hand, so if you wish to make truffles that will not melt in hand so quickly, you can dip them in tempered chocolate.

 

Question Of The Week :

What’s your favourite shoot day take-along recipe? Add yours to the comments below!

A Novice Guide To Shoot Day Etiquette

If you’re preparing for your first shoot day, you might be wondering what to expect — and how to make sure you don’t stick out for the wrong reasons. This guide is designed to help you feel more confident and prepared, whether you’re joining as a beater, a picker-up, or simply observing to learn.

These are the tips I wish someone had given me before my first day in the field.

Glossary of Key Terms

Understanding the language used on shoot days will help ease a lot of first-day nerves. Here’s a quick overview:

  • Brace – A pair of birds (male and female) hung together after the shoot.

  • Picker-up – Part of the team retrieving game with dogs after birds are shot.

  • Beater – People (with or without dogs) who push birds from cover towards the Guns.

  • Guns – The individuals doing the shooting.

  • Peg – Markers showing where each Gun should stand.

  • Peg Dog – A dog positioned with the Gun, usually remaining still during the drive.

  • Drive – A section of the day where birds are flushed and shot.

  • Runner – A wounded bird that hasn’t died immediately. Needs swift and humane dispatch.

  • Driven Day – A shoot where beaters push birds toward the Guns from behind.

  • Walked-Up Day – The line walks forward together, flushing and shooting birds as they rise.

  • The Line – The straight formation the beaters maintain during a drive.

  • “Hold the line!” – A command to stop immediately, typically from the keeper.

General Etiquette for Your First Day

1. Speak to the Keeper Ahead of Time
If you’ve been invited by a friend, ask for the keeper’s number. Call in advance to introduce yourself, confirm arrangements, and ask any questions. It shows respect — and helps you feel more prepared.

2. Consider Attending Without Your Dog First
There’s a lot to take in. Turning up without your dog the first time lets you observe how the day runs, understand expectations, and watch how experienced dogs work without the added pressure of handling your own.

3. Dress Practically and Respectfully
Stick to country colours like greens and browns. Smart but practical is key: a shirt and jumper, waterproofs, and boots with good grip. For picking-up, you may need to dress a bit smarter (e.g. shirt and tie or scarf). Be warm, dry, and comfortable — that’s non-negotiable.

4. Follow Instructions and Ask When Unsure
Listen to the keeper and others running the day. If you’re told to be quiet or make noise, there’s a reason. Don’t be afraid to ask questions — people would rather you ask than guess and get it wrong.

5. Say Thank You
You’re not expected to tip as a beater or picker-up, but do go and thank the keeper at the end of the day. Good manners go a long way and can lead to being invited back.

6. Food and Drink
Ask ahead whether food is provided. Some shoots offer a meal, some don’t. Bring snacks and water regardless — it’s a long day.

7. Small Gestures Matter
Bringing cake, sausage rolls, or a flask of something warming to share with the team is always appreciated.

8. Talk to Your Trainer
If you’ve got a trainer, let them know how you’re feeling. Ask questions, share your worries. We can’t support you if we don’t know what you’re dealing with.

Beater’s Guide

The Role:
Beaters help flush birds from cover towards the Guns. You’ll walk in line, flag, or use a stick to move birds forward.

Dogs in the Line:
Only bring your dog if they are steady and ready. The beating line isn’t the place for guesswork — you need control.

Your Dog Should Be Able To:

  • Stop reliably on the whistle, especially to flushed game.

  • Ignore gunshots.

  • Work in a tight pattern.

  • Be social with dogs and people.

  • Work in high-distraction environments without losing focus.

You Should:

  • Stay in line, keep pace, and listen to instructions.

  • Ask where the Guns are so you’re aware of the direction of fire.

  • Take snacks and drinks.

  • Dress for comfort, warmth, and practicality.

  • Ask if flags or sticks are needed.

  • Beat a few days without your dog first — then gradually introduce them.

Tip: You may start as a beater and later be asked to pick up. Be open to this — it’s often how doors open.

Picking-Up Guide

The Role:
Pickers-up stand behind the Guns and mark where shot birds land. Retrieval happens after the drive or in the case of runners, during.

Etiquette and Expectations:

  • Dress smartly and stay warm. A shirt and tie or scarf, and layers you can move in.

  • Dog steadiness is crucial. If your dog isn’t 100% steady, keep them on a lead.

  • Ask the keeper’s preference for retrieving during or after the drive.

  • Respect peg dogs. Mark their birds, but allow them to retrieve unless invited.

  • Be prepared. It’s a long day with a lot of waiting — your dog needs to handle that.

Advice for First Timers:
If you’re new, ask to shadow someone experienced. It’s a good way to learn what’s expected and to ease your dog in gradually.

Be Equipped:

  • A humane dispatcher (priest) and the confidence to use it.

  • Your own game carrier.

  • Know how to tie birds into a brace.

Final Thought:
If a Gun says they’ve shot something — go look for it. Even if you don’t find it, it shows respect and professionalism.

There’s a lot to take in, and that’s normal. You’re not doing it wrong — you’re just learning how the day flows.

Start slow, observe, ask questions, and take it one step at a time.

We’re here to support you, whether you’re joining a beating line for the first time or picking up with your dog after months of training.

Try this over the next few days: Revisit this guide and note any areas that feel uncertain — then pop your questions into the LWDG Facebook group or ask your trainer directly. You’ll feel more confident just from having clarity.

Helping Your Dog With Fireworks

Are you and your dog ready for fireworks on Bonfire Night? For a lot of dogs, fireworks can cause a range of different worrying behaviours that we may not even be aware of.

Listen to our Featured Experts as they discuss what you can do to ensure your dog is safe and happy around fireworks.

Because fireworks can be so difficult for some dogs to cope with our video covers what you can do from a puppy to help prevent a problem from occurring, through to what to do if the dog is already upset when hearing the sounds or watching the light created.

 

During this 30-minute episode we discuss:

1. Signs of concern that your dog could be struggling

2: Why do dogs react to fireworks

3. Being proactive and getting your dog used to fireworks

4. What we can do to help our dogs

5. Creating non-events for dogs who are scared

This podcast is available to everyone. You do not need to log in to listen, simply click on the player above. Please use the chapter menu on the video to access different sections as outlined.

How To Add Weight To Your Working Dog

Keeping weight on a working dog can be difficult, especially as the shooting seasons start.

A dog’s weight will vary on a number of factors. Some are hereditary, their type, their age, and their lifestyle.  It’s common for people to believe if you can feel a dog’s rib cage, it’s too skinny, but this is not always the case.

It’s sensible to keep a diary of your dog’s weight so that you are able to track any weight loss through the working season and weight gain during their off-season. By monitoring, you can adjust appropriately.

At Afonfelin, we use www.mykc.com to record our dog’s weights. I’m terrible with paper, so an online system suits me. 

What Should My Working Dog Weigh?

On the JAMES WELLBELOVED site they have a sliding scale that you can match to how your dog looks and feels to give you an approximate idea of whats appropriate for your dog. Alongside weight, think about the dogs fitness levels. A very fit dog can look skinny but be in incredibly good shape and condition.

We have also included at the bottom of this post a list of most dog breeds and their suggested weight in KG for both dogs and bitches.

Ruling Out Disease

Before we make changes to our dogs diet to increase weight, the possibility that disease or injury may be present and affecting their condition,  must always be considered.

If your adult dog normally has no issue holding weight, and suddenly loses condition for no obvious reason, such as a large increase in exercises levels, seek veterinary advice before looking at adjusting their diet.

Parasitic infestations can also affect a dogs weight. All dogs need to receive regular worming and check for ticks, fleas and other parasites as an infected dog can and will lose condition rapidly.

Frequency Of Feeding

When trying to add weight to a working dog, it is a good idea to provide additional little amounts of food often. Large meals with smaller frequency can be passed through without getting the optimum nutrition absorption. If your commitments such as work make it hard to add more meals, you could ask a neighbour or friend to pop food in for them or pay a dog sitter or walker. There are also automatic feeders available on the market to help you.

Different Types Of Food

Working Dogs tend to have a variety of diets depending on what their owners have found to give them the most success.

For your dog work out what suits them best and your lifestyle the best. There isn’t one answer to increasing a working dogs weight through feeding, so don’t be scared to make gradual changes and see what gives them the best results.

Raw Feeding

When you mention raw feeding, people naturally think about raw meat. Whilst this plays a part, there are also many other raw ingredients you can use in your dog’s diet. Oily fish, berries, eggs, cheese and veg, can all be included to add calories to your dog’s daily intake.

Raw Food can be purchased from many canine raw food providers or can be sourced from your local supermarket. If you are looking for suggestions for companies to use, head over to the LADIES WORKING DOG GROUP – FREE COMMUNITY and type ‘Feeding’ into the group search bar.

Green Tripe

The History of Tripe  recipe book explains tripe as “the edible lining from the stomachs of various farm animals”.

Green Tripe, is the most natural form of tripe that has not been bleached or dressed in any way. It has all the goodness of tripe including additional calories from the fat and protein, the good bacteria and other good stuff to benefit your dog.

Depending on from where, and in what state you receive the tripe can massively affect its smell and how you feed it, but there’s no doubting it can be a great way to add weight to your dog.

Additional Complete Dog Food Meals

Most canine food companies have weight loss products, but fewer have bespoke weight gain products.

Speak to the company you are using for your dog’s normal feeds and ask if there’s a product they suggest. Sometimes just adding an additional meal into the day, and after a long day’s work, can be enough to hold or increase their weight.

High Fat and High Protein Treats

When you’re trying to put weight on a dog, high-fat and high-protein treats can be an excellent source of additional calories. Natural peanut butter is loved by most dogs and is a great addition to a skinny dog’s diet, as are sardines and fat off your steak.

Canine Weight Chart

This table gives a general idea of the weight your dog should be. Keep in mind that a fit dog carrying muscle may show as being overweight due to muscle mass. Make sure to take into account your dogs appearance as well as weight.

Breed
 Average Adult Weight (kg)
Size
Male Female
Affenpinscher 3-5 Small
Afghan Hound 25-30 20-25 Large
Akita 40-50 30-40 Large
Alaskan Malamute 38-40 35 Large
Anatolian Shepherd Dog 40-70 Large
Australian Cattle Dog 15-20 Medium
Australian Shepherd 20-30 20-25 Medium
Australian Silky Terrier 3-5 Small
Australian Terrier 5-7 Small
Basenji 10 Small
Basset Hound 20-25 Medium
Bavarian Mountain Hound 20-25 Medium
Beagle 8-14 Small
Beauceron 30-40 Large
Bedlington Terrier 7-10 Small
Belgian Shepherd Dog 25-30 20-25 Medium
Bergamasco 32-38 26-32 Large
Bernese Mountain Dog 40-55 30-45 Large
Bichon Frise 5-7 4-7 Small
Black and Tan Coonhound 25-35 Large
Bloodhound 30-35 25-30 Large
Bolognese 2.5-4 Small
Border Terrier 5-7 Small
Borzoi 35-48 27-38 Large
Boston Terrier 4-11 Small
Boxer 30-37 22-30 Large
Bracco Italiano 25-40 Large
Briard 35-45 20-30 Large
Brittany 13-18 Medium
Bull Terrier 28-32 20-28 Medium
Bullmastiff 50-60 45-55 Large
Cairn Terrier 5-7 Small
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel 5-9 Small
Cesky Terrier 7-10 Small
Chihuahua 2.5 Small
Chinese Crested 2-6 Small
Chow Chow 20-30 Medium
Collie 27-32 22-30 Medium
Coton De Tulears 4-6 3.5-5 Small
Dachshund (Miniature) 5 Small
Dachshund (Standard) 7-14 Medium
Dalmatian 20-25 Medium
Dandie Dinmont Terrier 8-11 Small
Deerhound 39-50 34-43 Large
Dobermann 30-40 Large
Dogue de Bordeaux 50 45 Large
English Setter 27-30 22-25 Large
English Toy Terrier 3.5-6.5 Small
Entlebucher Mountain Dog 20-30 Medium
Estrela Mountain Dog 40-50 30-40 Large
Eurasier 23-32 18-26 Medium
Finish Lapphund 15-24 Medium
Fox Terrier 7.5-8.5 6.5-7.5 Small
Foxhound 29-34 20-29 Large
French Bulldog 12.5 or less Small
German Longhaired Pointer 27-32 Large
German Pinscher 11-16 Medium
German Shepherd 35-45 Large
German Shorthaired Pointer 25-30 20-25 Medium
Giant Schnauzer 27-48 25-35 Large
Gordon Setter 25-35 20-30 Large
Great Dane 60-80 50-70 Large
Great Swiss Mountain Dog 50-65 40-50 Large
Greenland Dog 30-32 Large
Greyhound 29-32 27-30 Large
Griffon Bruxellois 4-5 Small
Hamiltonstovare 23-27 Medium
Havanese 3-6 Small
Hovawart 25-40 Large
Hungarian Kuvasz 45-52 35-40 Large
Hungarian Puli 13-15 10-13 Medium
Ibizan Hound 23 20 Medium
Irish Red & White Setter 25-34 Large
Irish Setter 32 27 Medium
Irish Terrier 12 11 Small
Irish Wolfhound 54 or more 47 or more Large
Italian Greyhound 3-7 Small
Italian Spinone 34-39 29-34 Large
Jack Russell Terrier 7-8 Small
Japanese Akita Inu 34-54 32-45 Large
King Charles Spaniel 4-7 Small
Komondor 36 31 Large
Kooikerhondje 9-11 Small
Korean Jindo 18-23 15-19 Medium
Korthals Griffon 23-27 Medium
Kuvasz 45-52 32-40 Large
Lagotto Romagnolo 13-16 11-14 Small
Lakeland Terrier 7.5 Small
Lancashire Heeler 2.5-6 Small
Leonburger 48-75 41-59 Large
Lhasa Apso 6-7 Small
Maltese 2-3 Small
Manchester Terrier 3-3.5 Small
Maremma Sheepdog 30-45 Large
Mastiff 80-85 Large
Miniature Schnauzer 6-6.5 Small
Munsterlander (Large) 23-32 Large
Munsterlander (Small) 18-27 Medium
Neapolitan Mastiff 60-65 50 Large
Newfoundland 60-70 50-55 Large
Norfolk Terrier 5-5.5 Small
Norwegian Buhund 14-18 11.5-15.5 Medium
Norwegian Elkhound 25 22 Medium
Norwich Terrier 5.5 Small
Old English Sheepdog 32-40 28-35 Large
Parson Russell Terrier 6-7 Small
Pekingese 6 or less Small
Pharaoh Hound 20-25 Medium
Pointer 25-35 20-30 Medium
Poodle 2-3.5 Small
Portuguese Podengo 4-6 Small
Portuguese Pointer 20-27 16-22 Medium
Portuguese Water Dog 20-27 16-22.5 Medium
Pug 6.35-8.16 Small
Pyrenean Mastiff 80-100 Large
Pyrenean Mountain Dog 50-54 36-41 Large
Pyrenean Sheepdog 20-25 14-20 Medium
Retriever (Golden) 30-34 25-32 Large
Retriever (Labrador) 29-36 25-32 Large
Rhodesian Ridgeback 38 32 Large
Rottweiler 40-60 37-45 Large
Russian Toy 2.5 or less Small
Saint Bernard 63-81 Large
Schnauzer 5.4-9.1 5.4-8.2 Medium
Scottish Terrier 8.5-10 8.5-9.5 Small
Sealyham Terrier 10.5 8-10 Small
Segugio Italiano 18-27 Large
Shar Pei 25-30 18-25 Medium
Shetland Sheepdog 9 Small
Shih Tzu 4-7 Small
Siberian Husky 20-25 16-22 Medium
Skye Terrier 16-18 12-13.5 Medium
Slovakian Rough Haired Pointer 25-35 Large
Snorkie 3-6 Small
Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier 16-18 13.5-15 Medium
Spaniel (Clumber) 32-39 25-32 Large
Spaniel (Cocker) 13-16 12-15 Small
Spaniel (English Springer) 20-25 18-23 Medium
Staffordshire Bull Terrier 16-18 13.5-15 Medium
Swedish Lapphund 19-21 Medium
Tibetan Mastiff 40-70 35-50 Large
Weimaraner 25-40 Large
Welsh Corgi 10-14 10-13 Small
Welsh Terrier 9-10 Small
West Highland White Terrier 7-9.5 Small
Whippet 7-13.5 Small
White Swiss Shepherd Dog 30-40 25-35 Large
Xoloitzcuintle (Toy) 2.5-6.5 Small
Xoloitzcuintle (Miniature) 7-13.5 Small
Xoloitzcuintle (Standard) 11.5-18 Medium
Yorkshire Terrier 3 or less Small

Question Of The Week

What do you find works best for putting weight onto your working dog? Pop your comments below.

Developing And Maintaining Your Dogs Desire To Retrieve

Claire Denyer, Featured Expert

This subject is very close to my heart as we see many dogs who appear to have little to no desire to retrieve. It’s quite a common problem. We have many dogs come to us for training that other trainers have turned away or deemed “no good”. 

Unfortunately, this problem can cause dogs to be overlooked or moved on in the competition world. So, over the last few years, working with reluctant retrievers or dogs lacking drive and enthusiasm has become a passion.

Here are some training points that you can follow to help prevent your gun dog from losing interest in retrieving.

Although gundogs have been bred to retrieve, it would be fair to say that certain elements appear to be more exciting and come more naturally in some dogs than others. Many puppies or young gundogs love carrying things around in their mouth (and this shouldn’t be discouraged) and enjoy greeting you with something in their mouth. Most gundogs enjoy the chase (this is where the prey drive kicks in) and will chase a ball or other retrieving item happily.

 

The part of the retrieve where we are most often asked for help, and where things seem to go wrong is on the return. Without a doubt, this is the part is where we find most issues occurring. Sometimes it is down to something the handler has done or is doing, and sometimes not. Either way, we find it’s often a skill that needs developing.

Reluctant Retrieving

When we are working with a reluctant retriever or a dog who lacks the drive or desire the retrieve, we first put our efforts into igniting the prey drive. This will help develop and build the dog’s desire to retrieve. A dog without a desire to retrieve is likely to lose interest. With this in mind, we recommend that you spend time developing the desire to chase the retrieving item. The return, hold, and delivery can be worked on later once the dog is showing a desire to retrieve.

If you put steadiness in too early, especially with a young or less enthusiastic dog, you risk losing the retrieving desire. We tend to work on steadiness exercises separately to the retrieve with young dogs or dogs lacking enthusiasm. There are various ways of working on steadiness without dampening the dog’s desire to retrieve.

 

Do be careful not to overtrain. It’s not unusual to find that your dog will lose interest if you practice too often, make your training sessions too long, or do too many retrieves in a session.

There is absolutely no harm in having a break for a few days if your dog seems to have lost enthusiasm. It’s a good idea to work out how many retrieves your dog enjoys before getting bored. Once you have established this, it can help to stop your retrieving session whilst your dog is still keen, leaving your dog wanting more.

If you have been working on steadiness and your dog appears to have lost interest in retrieving, you may want to reignite the prey drive with some informal retrieves, letting your dog chase out after the retrieve.

If you get too hung up on the finer details of the delivery of the dummy too early, don’t be surprised if your young dog starts to lose enthusiasm. For example, I don’t insist on a sitting delivery from a young or inexperienced dog, I will take the retrieve from the dog and then ask for the sit.

It can also help some dogs to use a retrieving item which the dog finds exciting. For some, a plain canvas dummy may not cut it. Be careful the dog doesn’t find the item too exciting and decides it doesn’t want to give it back. A lead or long line can be useful when first introducing a new or more exciting item.

Other items you can use include a tennis ball, a rabbit dummy, a pheasant or partridge pelt dummy or even a pair of socks,  whatever your dog enjoys retrieving. The LWDG Tennis Ball Wrap can also help

Another way to reignite your dog’s interest is to hold them on a lead and let them watch a reliable, experienced dog retrieving. Let the older dog do a few retrieves, and then encourage your dog to have a go. Watching another dog retrieve can rekindle your dog’s interest in taking part.

Question Of The Week

How have you successfully encouraged your dog to retrieve? Post your stories and ideas in the comments below.

Further Reading

From Basic to Advanced: Understanding the Different Types of Retrieves for Gundogs

Why is the Twelfth so glorious?

Today marks the start of the British shooting season for Red Grouse, historically known as the Glorious Twelfth. We looked into its history to find out more…

Where The Glorious Twelfth Started

Many believe the 1831 Game Act is where the glorious twelfth began, however as early as the Game Act of 1773 –  they began to set out dates.

Brought in on the 24th of June 1773, the Act stated that no one would be allowed to hunt or even buy “black-game” or “grouse, commonly called red-game, between the tenth day of December and the twelfth day of August.”

In 1831 Parliament passed the GAME ACT. Set up to protect our game, it’s still in place today. There have been many amendments and alterations, but it still legally sets out the shooting calendar for the game.

The Act introduced a closed season in which it listed certain birds (and hares) that could no longer be legally killed between given dates. It also made it illegal to kill game on any Sunday or Christmas Day and introduced Game Licenses which you had to hold to hunt game. Even though the act mentioned hares, no closed season was introduced for them.

“Before any person takes, kills or pursues or aids or assists in any manner in so doing, or who uses any dog, net, gun or other engine for the purpose of taking, pursuing or killing any game, woodcock, snipe or coney or any deer must take out a licence to kill game.”

Glorious Twelfth

So today marks the start of the game season opening for 2019.

The 121 days of grouse shooting is the first to begin, with black grouse starting shortly afterwards, followed by the partridge and pheasant seasons.

The grouse is a fast-flying bird and are seen by some to be the largest challenge to shoot. With a flight speed of up to 70 mph, they don’t hang about. They also fly low to the ground, and shooting low is perfectly acceptable so care must be taken by those involved.

The grouse diet requires a large volume of heather, which is why the UK’s moorlands are so important to conserving these wonderful birds. With the UK homing 75% of the world’s moorland, the importance of these areas cannot be underestimated. More information can be found at THE MOORLAND ASSOCIATION’S website

Grouse are high in protein and flavour and low in fat, making them great for the table. Why not try it for yourself with one of our great recipes.

Or if you want to try out a very traditional recipe, pop over to Amazon and purchase THE COOKERY BOOK OF LADY CLARK OF TILLYPRONIE

Members can also DOWNLOAD THE LWDG GAME NUTRITION PRINTABLE FACT SHEET With the nutritional information for Grouse, Partridge and Pheasants made in association with the BRITISH GAME ALLIANCE. 

Open Season Dates

  • RED GROUSE (Moor Game), 12 August – 10 December. The Red Grouse is native to Britain, and they are wild birds.
  • BLACK GROUSE (Black Game), 20 August – 10 December
  • PHEASANT, 1 October – 1 February
  • PARTRIDGE, 1 September – 1 February
  • GREAT BUSTARD, 1 September – 1 March ( This bird became extinct in the UK and is currently being REINTRODUCED.

Members Club Free Gift

To mark the occasion, all those in our MEMBERS CLUB can download free our beautiful digital print wall art

Question Of The Week

Have you ever been grouse hunting on the Glorious Twelfth? Let us know in the comments below:

Why Socialisation Of Your Dog Is Essential

Lots of people get home with their new gun dog puppy and start training them for their new life outdoors. Training your pup control and obedience is important, but a third topic is sometimes overlooked… Socialiatation.

What Is Socialisation?

Socialisation is where an owner looks for new learning experiences for their puppy (or older dog if they have not been correctly socialised). It’s about you ensuring that your dog has a chance to build positive memories in lots of different environments.  As their memory bank of experiences builds, they learn to feel safe and secure in lots of new environments. A pup’s socialisation in this window of time determines how they will respond as an adult.

The Socialisation Window

Teaching a dog to cope well with new experiences should normally be done in the first 12 to 18 weeks of its life. This is known as a pup’s critical socialisation window. It’s the time that the pup can easily build positive responses to lots of different objects, people and situations.

Pups that are not socialised tend to show undesirable behaviours towards situations that frighten or upset them. During this time, it’s important that the pup builds positive memories that they use to determine their decision-making process as they grow.

Things To Keep In Mind When Socialising Your Pup

Positive experiences are key. Be calm with your pup and allow them to explore and become comfortable in the new situation. If you try to rush your pup it will have the opposite effect and actually cause problems. Be patient, use treats and encourage your puppy to be brave. Make sure you approach the new experience slowly, and do not expect your pup to be fine after just one socialisation event.

Members can use our FREE SOCIALISATION CHECKLISTto think about the different objects and environments your pup needs socialisation too. Please also download our free Daily Log to record what socialisation situations you have been working on.

The more positive socialisation you do with your pup, the better your dog will respond to daily life. 

Our checklist has been separated into five different categories:

  • People
  • Animals
  • Noises
  • Environments
  • Objects

In each category, we have added a number of experience opportunities. Also, make sure you are frequently handling your pup. We haven’t listed handling experiences as this should be taking place with your daily grooming and health checks.

Try to make sure your pup frequently gets to experience these socialisation opportunities more than once; the more, the better. Encourage your pup to become calm and confident around as many of those experiences on the checklist as possible.

My older dog was not socialised correctly. What should I do?

Dogs that have been under-socialised tend to show socialisation problems. This can be displayed as anxiety, anger, nervousness or any other negative behaviour or emotion.

Depending on your dog’s behaviour, you may be able to gently encourage your dog into new experiences with lots of praise, treats and distractions until the dog relaxes.

For most dogs, this will take a large number of socialisation opportunities and may never be corrected. If you are unsure of how to carry out a socialisation process correctly, contact a trainer or dog behaviourist who can provide testimonials of working with nervous dogs.

Check out our Masterclass on Working With Sensitive Dogs as a starting point.

Or listen to our podcast Understanding Reactive, Fearful or Aggressive Dogs

Question Of The Week?

What are your experiences of socialisation? 

Leave your reply in the comments below.

Top Tips For Stopping Your Dog From Overheating

With this bank holiday being so beautifully warm, we thought we would share with you some top tips to keep your working dogs cool.

Our four-legged friends can find this weather tough. Some dogs are still shedding what’s left of their winter coats, and the weather is unusually hot. Here’s what we can do to help.

Our Top Tips

Access To Drinking Water

When temperatures rise, so does thirst. Put out extra water and add a few ice cubes to keep it cool.

Water When Walking

On a hot day, your dog will appreciate access to water when walking. Offer small sips frequently to keep them hydrated. We use a dish that collapses and we carry enough water for us and our best buddies.

Keep Training Times To Early Morning Or Evening

Training when the weather is hot can be hard work for you and your dog. The heat feels uncomfortable but also affects scent. Remember that you’re probably not going to get a productive session from a dog who just wants to lay in the shade. If you must train do some water-based training activities and keep the session short.

Give Your Dog A Paddling Pool

Working Dogs usually love water so access to a shallow water source to lie in will be greeted with doggy joy. A small baby paddling pool or an old baby bath with a few inches will be enough for them to cool down in the garden or the kennel will offer great relief when they feel too warm.

Give Water Hidden in Treats

Dogs love to munch on fruits and veg. The great thing is they have water content too. Here’s a link to A LIST OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES you can give to your dog whatever the weather.

Make Sure Your Dog Has Shade

Just like you, your dog likes to lounge in a shady spot. Allow them to find a place that’s comfortable and leave them to rest. Make sure adults and children leave them alone to cool down. Sunglasses are optional 🙂

How To Tell If Your Got Has Heatstroke or Dehydration

Just like humans, dogs can suffer from heatstroke and dehydration too. Keep an eye out for the following indicators and if in doubt seek veterinary advice.

Below is an extensive link of symptoms as outlined by the vet authored and approved Pet MD.

SIGNS OF HEATSTROKE IN YOUR DOG
  • Panting
  • Dehydration
  • Excessive drooling (PTYALISM)
  • Increased body temperature – above 103° F (39° C)
  • Reddened gums and moist tissues of the body
  • Production of only small amounts of urine or no urine
  • Sudden (acute) kidney failure
  • Rapid heart rate
  • Irregular heart beats
  • Shock
  • Stoppage of the heart and breathing (cardiopulmonary arrest)
  • Fluid build-up in the lungs; sudden breathing distress (TACHYPNEA)
  • Blood-clotting disorder(s)
  • Vomiting blood (HEMATEMESIS)
  • Passage of blood in the bowel movement or stool
  • Black, tarry stools
  • Small, pinpoint areas of bleeding
  • Generalized (systemic) inflammatory response syndrome
  • Disease characterized by the breakdown of red-muscle tissue
  • Death of liver cells
  • Changes in mental status
  • SEIZURES
  • Muscle tremors
  • Wobbly, incoordinated or drunken gait or movement (ATAXIA)
  • Unconsciousness in which the dog cannot be stimulated to be awakened
DEHYDRATION IN YOUR DOG

‘The most common symptom of dehydration is the loss of elasticity in the skin. When pulled lightly, the skin will not readily come back to its original place. Another alarming symptom is xerostomia, in which the gums lose moistness and become dry and sticky, and the saliva becomes thick. In advanced dehydration, the eyes sink in and the dog may collapse with shock’

Symptom Checker

An online tool that can help you to check out your dog’s symptoms is the PETMD SYMPTOM CHECKER.

Whilst this is a great tool, if you are concerned about your dog please seek the advice of your vet.

How To Build Your Own Place Board

With so much chatter about how to use a place board in working dog training, I thought I would show you how we made ours!

What You Will Need To Build Your Place Board:
  • An 8ft length of 3inch x 2 inch timber. We asked the local merchant to cut the lengths to the sizes we needed.
  • A ply top for the place board which we again had cut for us 24 inch long by 15 inch wide.
  • A piece of astroturf (or other artificial turf)  26 inches long by 18 inches wide slightly larger than the top so we could wrap sides.
  • 8 screws of 4.5 inch length
  • 10 screws of 2.5 inch length
  • Staple gun or glue
Infographic on how to build dog training placeboard

Assembly Of Your Place Board

Assembly was really quick and simple. Lay the wood frame out with long lengths on the outside of the shorter lengths. The board will sit at 3 inches high.

Screw the four pieces together to create a frame. When you purchase 3 x 2 inch timber, it is never actually that exact size width. Ours was actually 1.75 inches hence the 11.5 inches shorter lengths butting up to the 2 sides to make a total 15 inches depth (this will make more sense when you make it)

Once you have created your place board frame, add the ply top to the frame. Use four screws along each of the long sides and 2 in the middle of the shorter lengths.

Glue or staple the astroturf securely to the top. We used a mixture of both to ensure the dogs couldn’t get hurt by the turf slipping.

And it’s as easy as that! Each one we made looked more professional as we tweaked the design. Don’t forget to head over to our MASTERCLASS SECTION to watch our brilliant video on effectively using your place board.

Make sure to send us your pics of your place boards, and we will add them to this post!

SUBSCRIBE FOR YOUR FREE PDF PLACEBOARD INSTRUCTIONS

We have made a FREE Place Board Instruction Street. Instant access here, plus we will send you a copy via email for safekeeping.

Lead Magnet Placeboard Form

Name
Consent

 

Prefer to Purchase? Get a great placeboard online today for £11.99 on OUR ONLINE STORE 

Design Updates:

Some of our followers have sent us some great ideas to improve on our design.

Peter sent us these via email along with pics with his DIY place boards and we HAD to share.

  • I have attached some photographs to illustrate the main features.
  • Firstly I decided that since the boards will only be supporting the weight of a dog, the construction could in fact be much lighter.
  • I opted for the main frame to be made from 47mm x 22mm rough sawn treated timber, instead of the (nominally) 3 x 2. which is suggested.
  • This represents a weight reduction in the order 70%, so is much lighter to carry.
  • Another advantage is that much smaller screws can be used for assembly of the frame, for which I used 4 x 50 mm, together with 3.5 x 30 mm for fixing the top board.
  • Both of these features of course also reflect cost savings.
  • You will also see that I have added a rope handle to the boards for ease of carrying. This is 10 mm diameter, threaded through a 12 mm diameter hole and stapled to the inside of the frame.

I trust you will find these comments useful and they come with my best wishes to you and the team.

Best regards,

Peter

The LWDG is all about collaboration and community and his ideas are absolutely fabulous! Thanks Peter 🙂

Our First LWDG Meet Up At The Game Fair 2019

Before this weekend I had never been to the GAME FAIR. I’ve been to many country shows (as a horse mad teenager I made my parents drive my horse and I to so many!) but I had no idea what to expect. I knew there would be dogs, and guns, and mud (what’s a country event without it!), but there was so much more to do than I imagined!

History of The Game Fair

The first Game Fair was held in 1958.

This incredible video let’s you see what the game fair looked like back then, it’s also a beautiful captured moment of the history of the British countryside , and our sporting traditions.

Today the Game Fair offers so much more but I believe its around the same very idea of the initial one.

The Game Fair Today

We arrived on Friday. With a 13-year-old boy and 10-year-old girl in tow. All we hoped for was that there would be good weather and enough to keep us all occupied for the 72 hours.

Parking was simple and I was impressed with how well organised everything was. We rode the tractor taxi to the entrance, which the littlest one loved!

Both my husband and I am BASC MEMBERS, so it made sense, and saved money on tickets, to sign up the young ones too. It also gave us the advantage of using the BASC entrance. There were no large queues all weekend which again impressed me. There are three main entrances into the fair, each day we used the Purple one, so I can’t comment on the other two, but the one we used was great all weekend.

Finding Your Way About The Game Fair

Once inside, we decided to do a large orientation walk first. This is the joys of having an outdoor instructor as a husband, lol!

The Game Fair has different areas, theatres and rings, with so much going on that there’s loads to choose from. In each area we visited there was places to eat and drink, toilets that worked quite well all weekend, and lots of retailers selling an incredible range of products for country lovers.

This is the super fast run down – We started at the kid zone, through the falconry village, around the gun dog section, through the vast retail village, into the gamekeeper and shooting section, on through the BASC section with Kitchen Theatre, swiftly through fishing (no fishermen in our family), past the horses and hounds, on to the main arena, passed the Game Fair Pavilion and Carter Jonas theatre, crept through the Totally Food area which was amazing, passed the craft village, and ended up nearly back at our start by the Game Fair Gardens!

Our First Ever LWDG Meet Up was held at In The Country

What To Do At The Game Fair

There was so much! Honestly I don’t think you can see everything in a whole day. We spent three days there and only got a glimpse of what it was offering. But we loved every second. The kids were kept entertained. A trip to FAIRFAX AND FAVOR with their Magician had Meg enthralled whilst I tried on boots. And the amazing team on the SKINNERS stand provided us with an amazing lunch on Sunday including a very yummy dog paw shortbread!

There were lots of people offering samples and information but none were pushy, its all really friendly with a great atmosphere. I loved the fact that there was so much entertainment. Some shows have become very much open-air markets with little in the way of a show, but the Game Fair had so much going on!

LWDG Meet-Ups

Each day I was honoured to meet lots of our LWDG Members. I had the privilege of sharing time on some beautiful stands with owners who were incredibly welcoming to us, handing out drinks and taking time to chat to everyone.

Friday we had an incredible hour with Hollie at IN THE COUNTRY, Saturday we were with Sorrel and Cathryn in ON THE PEG, and we finished Sunday with Emma of EMMA BROWN TWEED, and Claire from PURDEY & SLOANE. Below are photos of some of the lovely ladies, gents and doggies I got to spend time with.

We cannot thank these companies enough for hosting us, so please go over their websites and see what they have to offer. Without them, we couldn’t have chatted to as many of you as we did. We are truly grateful. Whilst we were with them, we got to see first-hand their gorgeous products!

14 Tips For Improving Your Dog Training

Sadly, we aren’t all natural dog whisperers.  The occasional 20 minutes in the garden isn’t going to crack it, so in order to be the best dog trainer you can be, it helps us to have some tips in place to help us reach our potential.

Here are 14 tips to help you improve your dog training over the next 14 days. 

Work on 1 each day to help you see positive results in the next two weeks and longer…

1. Start Fresh On Monday

We have been conditioned all our lives to set a start date to our new commitment. So this coming Monday, set the date as your time to get serious.

2. Write Out Your Reasons Why

Be clear in your mind why you want to train a working dog. It’s a long commitment, and you will need to have goals that keep you working towards it. Write them down somewhere so you can refer back to them when you feel like giving up.

3. Visualise The End Result

Close your eyes for a moment and picture yourself working your dog beautifully. Can you do it? Can you imagine how that looks? And feels? Spend some time thinking about it daily. Your mind can achieve your goals if you are clear on how they look so visualise them.

4. Plan Your Sessions

Putting on your training vest and heading out can end in disaster if you are not clear about what you’re going out to train. Your dog can sense your confusion and it’s going to be hard for them to deliver results if you’re not being clear to your dog about what you want from them. Before you step out, take a moment to write out what you want to achieve. You can do this on a scrap of paper, on your phone, or in our MAGIC MONTH DOG TRAINING PLANNER AND JOURNAL. 

5. Combine Fun Skills With The Not So Fun

OK, so no one loves heel work or 3-minute sit and stays. But steadiness and obedience are the foundation of a great working dog. Make sure you set time regularly to train these tasks. Mix them in between retrieves and hunting to teach your dog to ‘switch gears’, to be able to go from racing around the field, to calmly waiting by your side.

6. Set A Timer For Your Training

When the training is going well, it’s all too easy to keep out and keep at it. And our dogs seem to have unlimited physical energy. But a working dog can become mentally exhausted just like us. Set a timer for your training session and stick to it.

7. Reward Yourself

We reward our dogs for a job well done. Whether that’s from a smile, a touch, or food, we praise them. But what about ourselves? We very rarely treat ourselves for doing a good job with our dogs, generally in life. Learn to acknowledge and reward your own successes.

8. Train With A Friend

Training alone can be boring. Plus we sometimes cannot see where we can improve, and a fresh set of eyes might notice things we are doing that could be improved. Plus being out with someone else gives your dog a chance to improve important steadiness skills as they wait patiently for their turn.

9. Reflect On Your Training Session

Your training session isn’t over until you have spent a little time going over what can be learnt from it. Ask yourself three quick questions – What do I need to start doing? What should I start doing? And lastly, what can I continue doing? A great trainer always learns from their training. If you are not sure how to reflect, there’s A FREE GREAT MASTERCLASS AVAILABLE. 

10. Take Human Snacks

Working Dog Training can be tiring for both your body and your mind. When our glucose level drops, we can be delayed in our responses, generally tired and possibly a little ‘hangry’. Take some healthy human snacks that can boost your sugar level to keep you going.

11. Keep Visual Reminders

In your dog training vest, on your phone, in your car, and around your home, keep little notes to remind you you can succeed. Every day the LWDG post a quote on our Instagram Pager and Our Facebook Page to keep us all going. Notes and images of success can build our resolve to succeed too.

12. Don’t Train In Pain

There is no point going out to train your dog when you’re emotionally or physically drained. If you’re tired, stressed or upset, take your dog for a gentle stroll to clear your mind if you must, but don’t try to use the time for training. Your dog can sense your upset, you will be distracted, and no good can come from those states of mind.

13. Believe In Yourself

There is an old Latin motto: “Possunt quia posse videntur.” They can, because they think they can.

And the same is true if you think you can’t. Make sure to work on your mindset. You have to believe you can in order to succeed.

14. Surround Yourself With Other Positive Dog People

When you have others around you encouraging you, it’s so much more fun to work on your dog training. You may not be able to get together with people to train locally, but you can share all your experiences in THE LWDG COMMUNITY. Our Ladies are some of the most positive people you can find with working dogs so come hang out there. We are all learning together.

Photographing Your Dog With Guest Expert Christina Power

How many times have you been photographing your gundog, only to end up with bums and blurs? As any pet gundog owner knows, dogs are notoriously difficult to photograph. They never seem to sit still long enough for a clear picture, and even when they do, their excitement often results in a blurry image. While it’s true that working dogs can be notoriously difficult to photograph, there are a few things you can do to improve your chances of getting a great shot. With a little patience and practice, you’ll be able to capture those special moments with your furry friend.

Here are 10 quick tips to help you:

1) Get to know the dog’s personality before you start.

Dogs are individuals, just like people, and each one has its own unique personality. Some gundogs are shy and skittish, while others are outgoing and friendly. Some might be cooperative when it comes to having their picture taken, while others might be resistant. The key to getting a great photo of your dog is to take the time to get to know its personality. Once you understand your gundog’s quirks and behaviours, you’ll be able to capture its true essence in a photograph. If you try to force your dog into poses or situations that it’s not comfortable with, you’re likely to end up with a blurry, unappealing photo. So take your time, get to know your dog, and let its personality shine through in your photos.

2) Have treats on hand and objects to throw or get the dog’s attention.

Take their favourite toy, or if they like variation, take a new toy. How can you get them to look in the direction you want? Getting your dog to look in the desired direction can be tricky, but there are a few things you can do to increase your chances of success. First, make sure you have their favourite treat on hand. Dogs are highly motivated by food, so holding a treat in front of their nose should get their attention. If that doesn’t work, try throwing a toy or another object in the direction you want them to look. The movement will likely catch their eye and cause them to turn their head.

3) Shoot photos from your dog’s level.

When it comes to photographing dogs, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, it’s important to get down to their level. Shooting from above can make the dog look small and insignificant while getting down on their level helps to capture their personality and spirit. by getting down to their level, it’s possible to take shots that are both flattering and expressive. One way to do this is to use a garden pad or other type of kneeler. This will not only help you to avoid getting dirty, but it will also allow you to get closer to your subject. With your camera at eye level, you’ll be able to capture your dog’s unique features, and you may even be able to get some great candid shots. So next time you’re trying to take the perfect picture of your pooch, remember to think like a dog and get down on their level.

4) Focus on the eyes to create emotional dog photography

Eyes are said to be the windows to their soul, and that’s especially true when it comes to gundog photography. When you’re taking a close up photo of your furry friend, it’s important to focus on their eyes in order to capture their personality and create an emotional connection with the viewer. Working Dogs are very expressive creatures, and by focusing on their eyes, you’ll be able to capture a wide range of emotions, from happiness and excitement to sadness and confusion. In addition, the eyes are one of the most important features of a dog’s face, so making sure they’re in focus will help to create a more pleasing composition. So next time you’re snapping some photos of your pup, remember to keep their eyes in focus and let their personality shine through.

5) Backgrounds, fields, flowers, grassy areas, and woods, create a classic portrait

When it comes to photographing gundogs, classic portrait backgrounds are often the best choice. This is because they tend to be uncluttered and have similar tones that allow your dog to stand out. Backgrounds such as fields, flowers, grassy areas, and woods can all create a beautiful portrait, and each one has its own unique charm. For example, a field may provide a sense of freedom and space, while a wooded area can add a touch of mystery. Ultimately, it’s up to you to choose the background that best suits your dog’s personality and the mood you’re trying to capture. With so many great options available, there’s no need to settle for anything less than perfect.

6) Capture owner/pet relationship

Any pet owner knows that the bond between humans and animals can be a special one. Pets offer us companionship, unconditional love, and hours of amusement, and in return, we provide them with food, shelter, and medical care. Capturing this unique relationship in photographs can be a challenge, but it’s well worth the effort. After all, these are the images that we’ll cherish for a lifetime. Ask a friend to come with you, set your camera up to take a shot automatically after a time period, or by using a cheap remote clicker from a distance. You can read more about them here.

7)Think About Lighting, Use The ‘Golden Hour’ Lighting

As any photographer knows, lighting is one of the most important factors in taking a good picture. The quality of light can make or break a photo, and the best light often occurs during the golden hour – the period shortly after sunrise or before sunset. This is when the light is soft and warm, providing a stunning backdrop for your subject. If you’re looking to take some amazing shots of your dog, take advantage of the golden hour light. Position your dog in an open area with plenty of natural light, and let the magic happen. You’ll be amazed at the results.

8) Blur the background

One way to make your gundog the focus of a photo is to blur the background. Most digital photo software now has this capability, and it’s relatively easy to do. Simply select the “blur” tool and adjust the strength of the effect until you’re happy with the results. The blurred background will cause the viewer’s eye to be drawn to your dog, making it the focal point of the image. So if you want to make sure that your beloved pet is the star of the show, then don’t forget to blur the background.

9)Minimise Movement

Capturing a great photo of your dog can be difficult, especially if they are always on the move. One way to get a clear and sharp image is to minimise movement. This means keeping your dog still before taking the photo. You can do this by asking them to sit or lie down, or by using a leash to keep them in place. If you have a particularly active dog, you may need to get creative, such as using treats or toys to keep their attention. By minimising movement, you’ll be able to take a great photo that captures your dog’s personality without any unwanted blur.

10) Take time to just sit back and watch the actions of the dog, when the movement is right you will see it and then click!

When it comes to photography, timing is everything. This is especially true when trying to capture the perfect shot of a moving subject. Dogs are notoriously difficult to photograph, as they are constantly in motion. However, by taking the time to simply sit back and watch their actions, it is possible to anticipate the right moment to take the photo. More often than not, the best shots occur when the dog is in mid-movement. By paying close attention, it is possible to capture these fleeting moments of perfection. With a little patience and practice, anyone can learn to take stunning photos of even the most active dogs.



Click here to visit Christina’s website

5 Top Tips When Feeding Your Dog

Guest Post By Rachael Hindle

First of all, I’d like to start off by clarifying one thing; I am in no way an expert on feeding your dog. The expert on feeding YOUR dog is in fact you.

Nobody will understand your dog better than you will – seriously, not even your vet. You know the difference between your dog having an off day or there being something wrong. Only you can tell the difference between them being needy and them having a problem. You track how your dog’s food intake affects them.

Dudley

 

Dudley’s Surgery

I launched RACHAEL’S DOG PANTRY in August 2018 following a stomach issue with one of my dogs.

At 6 months old, Dudley, my Clumber Spaniel had surgery on his small and large intestine to correct an intussusception (one part slid into another and caused a blockage). The surgery went really well, but for 2 months following his surgery, he was on special food from the vets. I was told it would give him the extra nutrients he needed for a speedy recovery while being gentle on his stomach. Of course, we said yes and bought a caseload, it was eye wateringly expensive, as in twice the weekly cost of food for my fiancé and me!

A short while later, Dudley was back to his normal self, we were coming to the end of his treatment and we needed to phase him back onto normal food. Before his surgery he’d always been on dry food, we liked things how they were and wanted to continue. The only difference was now I was very concerned about what was actually in it. So I began researching on google to find support on what was best to feed him. I was met with so many opinions and so much information. I decided to start my own food company to help others who were facing the same challenges.

My 5 Top Tips When Feeding Your Dog

Tip 1

First and most importantly, what are you comfortable with handling? This is a big one that a lot of people forget. If the smell of fish turns your stomach, or the sight of raw meat makes you want to stick your head in the toilet, avoid them. While you aren’t eating it, you will have to prepare it daily. Find food you are happy working with.

Tip 2

Secondly, ask around. You ask for opinions from your nearest and dearest in all walks of life, so add this one to the pile. The more people you ask the more you can find out. Bear in mind a St. Bernard owner will have a different view on what a dog will need than a pug owner. Ask in Facebook groups and forums, but keep in mind lots of people have different views.

Tip 3

Next up is money. What can you afford? Set a budget and stick to it. It would be great if we could afford to give our dogs steak every night, but that might be out of your price range. Work out what you can get for your budget.

Tip 4

Next up, watch their waistline. A dog’s waist should go in between its ribs and hip joint, and you should be able to feel ribs. If in doubt ask your vet. You can find a really handy DOG WEIGHT CALCULATOR HERE

In the summer working dogs may need less food, walks are sometimes shorter, and there are (hopefully) lazy days basking in the sun. In winter the working dog community is in its peak season. Dogs can be burning far more calories and this will need to be accounted for. My advice, is don’t do anything drastic, keep your eye out for any changes in their weight and tweak as needed. Once again, you know your dog better than anyone so trust your instincts.

Tip 5

To summarise, trust your instincts and don’t impulse buy. Know what you’re getting for your money, and choose what to feed on what your dog needs.

Best wishes

Rachael – @RACHAELSDOGPANTRY

Enjoy British Pie Week With This Gorgeous Game Recipe

Here’s a fantastic recipe for Game Pie with Mustard Mash.

EAT WILD is a campaign by the BRITISH GAME ALLIANCE (BGA), the official marketing board for game. They have kindly sent us this lovely recipe for British Pie Week which is taking place this week from 4th – 10th March.

The BGA’s goal is to bring you a better wild game by demanding quality, introducing welfare and quality regulations and helping shoots to self-regulate. Only produce that meets the board’s high standards receives BGA assurance. By looking out for the BGA stamp, you’ll easily find healthy, delicious, sustainably sourced meat you love to cook, serve, and eat.

Happy #BritishPieWeek to all!

three bird game pie recipe

Game Pie with Pommery mustard mash

With the weather as bad as it is right now, you can’t beat a steaming hot game pie with lashings of ale-rich gravy. It’s simpler than you might think to cook your own; we’ve used readymade pastry and pre-prepared confit mallard to make the whole thing even easier.

Serves: 5

Prep time: 1 hour

Cooking time: 1 hour

Equipment needed:

  • Deep pie dish
  • 3 saucepans
  • Mixing bowl
  • 2 serving dishes
  • Gravy boat

Ingredients:

For the pie

  • 2 diced duck breasts
  • 1 tin confit duck leg meat (containing 4 portions)
  • 2 pheasant breasts
  • 2 pigeon breasts
  • 4 white onions
  • Readymade puff pastry
  • Chestnut mushrooms
  • 1 tbsp redcurrant jelly
  • 100g plain flour
  • 400ml Game stock

For the mash

  • 1kg red skin potatoes
  • 150ml milk
  • 85g butter
  • 1 tbsp wholegrain or Pommery mustard
  • Salt to taste

For the tender stem broccoli

  • 500g tender stem broccoli
  • Vegetable oil to coat

For the ale gravy

  • 1 bottle any good ale
  • 200ml chicken or beef stock
  • 4 tsp gravy granules

 

Method

  1. Dice all the game but the mallard leg meat into 1-inch cubes.
  2. Coat the meat in seasoned flour and fry off until crisp and fully cooked. Place the meat in a pie dish.
  3. Slice the onions and fry them in a little oil until softened. Add the mushrooms and, when golden brown, tip the mushrooms and onions over the top of the meat.
  4. Heat up the game stock and add a little redcurrant jelly to sweeten before pouring over the pie mix. Leave the pie mix to cool and add the mallard leg meat.
  5. Cover the whole pie dish with the pre-rolled pastry and brush the top with egg yolk.
  6. Bake for 40 minutes in an oven pre-heated to 180 degrees.
  7. While the pie’s in the oven, peel the red skin potatoes and boil until soft, then mash with the butter and milk.
  8. Add 1 tbsp of mustard, or more to taste. Season with salt and white pepper.
  9. To make the gravy, pour the ale into a saucepan on high heat and reduce it by half. Add the 200ml of game stock and thicken with the gravy granules.
  10. Finally, prepare the broccoli. Rub the oil into the broccoli then drop it into a very hot pan. Seat until it begins to wilt and slightly blister.
  11. Serve the pie as a centre piece alongside serving dishes of the mustard mash and broccoli. Finish with a big jug of your ale gravy.